Hi, I decided to try to save some money and replace a broken grip shifter myself. I have an entry level bike, Trek Navigator 200 which had Shimano C101 integrated grip shift/brakes and Shimano C101 3 gear front and 7 gear rear derailers. This is the first time I've tried to do any derailer adjusting. My lbs gave me a SRAM 7 speed grip shifter to replace the broken shifter and I got it connected to the rear derailer but I can't get into high gear and I need to sometimes click through a couple of gears to make it shift one gear. Also, now when I'm in high gear on the shifter I'm actually in low on the derailer, which I understand to be because the C101 derailer is backwards from most derailers (not a problem, but I thought I should mention it).

I read Sheldon Brown's site and he said normally limit stops shouldn't be necessary after a cable replacement but indexing will. So I haven't made any adjustments yet to the stop limits and am not sure about indexing adjustment. Is this the B-tension adjustment? I see two bolts which I believe are the high and low limit stops but I don't see any B tension adjuster. Any one familiar with this derailer and ideas on how to properly adjust the derailer?

Some SRAM shifters are 1:1 and others are 2:1. Shimano is all 2:1 so, if you are having to shift twice to get it to move one cog, you have a mismatch and no amount of adjustment will fix it.

The C101 is the worst piece of **** front derailleur ever made. It's *extremely* hard to adjust even for an experienced mech. Some SRAM gripshifts are compatible with shimano derailleurs, some aren't - go ask your LBS if the ones they gave you are shimano compatible.

Thanks for the information, I'll check with the bike shop. It is the rear shifter that broke and I'm trying to adjust the rear derailer, not front. At least I can get around without having to hold the broken shifter in the right position.

And I'm not too hot on the C-101 rear derailleur either. If it was my bike I'd replace it with a new Deore rear derailleur.

1. When you bought the new shifter did you also get new cable housings? That C-101 rear derailleur is real sensitive to any binding or crud in the cable housing.

2. If the rear derailleur was working properly before the shifter shot craps, you shouldn't have to mane any adjustment to the limit screws or to the B screw. Your problem is somewhere else. I'm betting in crudded up cable housing and/or a cable tension adjustment.

3. Derailleur hanger alignment can also cause the problem that you describe. Shift into a gear that makes the derailleur arm point straight down and examine it from behind the bike. The derailleur arm should be exactly parallel to the rear wheel. If it's not you can probably "eyeball" a 7-speed adequately into line or have a shop align it more precisely using the proper tool.

I know this is an ancient thread. I am told....RD C101 are different from the majority of derailleurs because when in "zero cable tension" the RD stops inboard on the largest sprocket. Most when under zero cable tension will rest out in the smallest sprocket....assuming stops etc are correct. There is a name for this type of RD? For the life of me I cannot remember.

Why my question? I was going to replace the front grip shifter and figure that although all RD are "dumb" and only do what the shifter tells them to do, this inboard stop might require a different type of shifter.

Bike is a nice all steel Multitrack Trek we bought years ago new and she needs some love.

If this is a basic question my apologies. My wrench work is a bit dated and I am just getting back into my stable of bikes.

Low Normal or Rapid Rise VS High Normal.

Using a "High Normal" SHIMANO shifter would result in your gear numbers being "backward", but will work.