what about the cable guides from the bottom?

I've got a Huret, of indeterminate vintage. I think late 1970s. Shifts smooth and easy. It works great.

There is no truer statements then the above statements...but thats just my opinion which is obviously shared with at least one other forum member.

Suntour over engineered their products which is why Consumer Reports back in the late 70's rated the medium level SunTour GT derailleur the fastest most accurate shifting group they've ever tested including high level offerings from all the other companies. I know my Superbe group shifts as fast as my new Campy stuff.

And I can attest to Suntour's long life, my bike as all Suntour Superbe components since it was new; and none of the components except for the front derailleur (band broke and I replaced it with an identical Superbe derailleur) all have over 150,000 miles with nothing more then relubing ever done.

Suntour components are among the very best you will find... they don't have much snob appeal unless you are looking at Superbe level parts but they never fail to deliver crisp and reliable shifting.

I used a first generation Cyclone GT on my hybrid after the Shimano XTR derailer died and it worked flawlessly and was handling 30 teeth in the rear with no problems.

When people come to me looking for advice on what y use on touring bikes I always point them toward Suntour parts if they are going friction only as I know those parts are going to be very reliable.

A lot of the Shimano parts from the same era (pre index) are total crap.

The only problem I have this advice is: what happens if by some remote chance one of those Suntour parts breaks while out on a tour, where does one get the needed part(s) to fix it when most LBS's would just be suggesting to replace the part with Shimano since they have no access to Suntour parts? Sure they could hop on E-Bay, but that means you have to wait for the final bid time then wait for it to be shipped, and that process could take as long as 2 weeks.

I wouldn't have any problems touring on Suntour if I knew the parts were out there to be had quickly.

If you are running a friction system you can run pretty much any type of replacement part... this is the plus to doing this.

So your Suntour part breaks and you need to use a Shimano d... no problem.

In the boonies and need a derailer... you could probably scavenge something from the locals.

The only issue would be cage length as on a touring bike you will be running some big cogs and those require a medium to long cage rear d.

froze, when you're on tour, you have to be willing to pay more for a repair than when you're home. So maybe you can't buy a jockey wheel or a cable binder bolt for your SunTour derailleur, but you can buy a new derailleur. Friction derailleurs and shifters are pretty much all compatible with each other.

And besides, how much time does a person spend on tour? Not much.

Can you identify these?

Holy cow, those are beautiful. They all look like PX-10 frames, though the first one confuses me, because it seems to have a cottered crank. Was that added on later? It's a heck of a downgrade.

The PX-10 was a really good frame. It didn't have the neatest brazing work but not the worst, either, but more importantly, it gave a wonderful ride. It was made of Reynolds 531 tubing throughout.

1. 1974 PA10
2. 1974 PA10
3. 1974 PX10

The PA10 originally had a cottered crank and tubulars. The tubing is not Reynolds 531, but it weighs less than the PX10 as equipped in the second picture.

I can't complain about the brazing on mine.

Oh, so that was a quiz? Anyway, it was a really good period for middle-line mass-produced bikes. I have a 1971 Raleigh Super Course whose brazing is about equivalent to your Peugeots'. Nervex lugs, too! But the paint is crap. How do you keep the paint so nice?

Is that a Campagnolo Rally rear derailleur on the third bike?

The black PX10 was repainted by Dr. Deltron and hasn't been ridden since. I'm not going to ride it until I get some fenders on it to protect the paint from rock chips. Jitensha Studio has some extra narrow Honjos that I think will fit. I'm saving my lunch money.

The rear derailer is a 1974 Campagnolo Nuovo Record with a Rally cage. The crank is a chrome plated 1975 Record triple. Nothing's too good for my PX10. I bought it new and we've been through a lot together. There was a time when it was the most valuable thing I owned.

Hi , going to resurrect this thread . I have a Peugot Talisman PH8 with Simplex Deraileurs . The Deraileurs are starting to fail , any idea of what would be a good , easily sourced and widely available replacement ?Thanks in advance

None of your attachments work for me, but in general I'd anticipate no problems. The worst might be if the frame has metric diameter tubing, in which case a shim might be needed under the front derailleur clamp.

Hi there , would you have a link to picture of a clamp on cable stop so that I know what I am looking for ?

Thanks

Thanks for your reply John . Thinking of going with this and a clamp on cable stop

Shimano 105 5700 Double 10sp Front Mech | Chain Reaction Cycles

also goint to go with this as a rear deraileur , its a 6.7 speed but Im hoping it will work on the 5 speed rear freewheel if i set the limits correctly

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourne.../dp/B003ZMH69S

That's a fact. I didn't like the Simplex rear DR's either.