I work in a bike shop, my boss suggested I ride it for a few weeks, then rebuild before my next race. I went to two other bike shops for opinions, both said don't worry about it; it is perfectly fine. Then bike forums basically advises I rebuild it.

On that note, if I do rebuild it, I really don't understand how to correct the problem. I mean, I know what need be done, but I can't figure out how. The two spoke option moves the valve, flipping the rim just creates the same problem.. what the eff am I supposed to do?

Can you get a side shot picture of the wheel with the valve hole marked somehow? It should be as simple as moving every spoke one hole. The question is which way.

I believe that it involves changing the position of your key spoke. Normally you would place your key spoke right next to the valve stem, then lace every other flange hole to every 4th rim hole on that same flange. Then you would move to the opposite flange and start with the next (halfway offset) flange hole to the left on that side, place that spoke and set it into the next available rim hole, just next to your key spoke.

IF your "key spoke" is having to cross to the opposing side of the rim in order to hit the hole next to the valve stem (which seems to be the case for you), you should skip that first hole and lace your key spoke to the second rim hole instead. This will only slightly change your hub/rim alignment, and will mean that you're lacing to the proper side of the rim. Place the rest of those first spokes on that flange before continuing. Then while placing spokes for the opposite flange, you'll start by placing your first spoke in the flange hole that's slightly to the RIGHT and lace that one to the rim hole in-between your "key" spoke and the valve hole. Continue around the wheel placing each spoke in the same orientation to this pair, each opposing flange spoke will be slightly to the right of each spoke that you laced to the first flange.

In the wheel building book that I use, he explains that most rims use the more common "type 1" spoke hole offset, but some use the opposite "type 2" which appears to be what you have. That is of course unless you laced it backwards in the first place. Type 1 vs. Type 2 makes no difference except in the lacing stage when you have to change things slightly. If you don't mind spending a few dollars, you can purchase and download the book online. It's called Professional Guide to Wheel Building by: Roger Musson, and likely will do a better job of explaining this difference than i have.

-Jeremy

This is why many of us do our own wrenching. There IS a "right" way of doing it. There may also be a different "safe" way of doing it, but why not make sure it's done right. The wheel will likely be stronger, will have better "seated" spoke nipples, and be easier to maintain (if you ever need it). What the shops were most likely saying is that it's probably safe to ride that way, but the undeniable reality is that it's not the "right" way.

To make a comparison, I'd rather have a wheel laced to the proper side of the rim and not have my valve hole in the right spot than have my valve hole in the right spot and be laced to the wrong side of the rim. The first one is inconvenient, the second one is a structural change. That's my 2 cents.

-Jeremy

Yep. Gotta move the key spoke. Now that solves the problem, I just need to do the actual relacing. I'll wait till saturday when I have work, so I can use the truing stand/dishing tool.