Hi, I am building a new old stock Cannondale R800 CAAD5 frame with Campy record 10spd. It seems like there is no room for the chain between the rear dropout/chainstay and the cassette.

When I first installed the rear wheel (campy record hub) the cassette would not freewheel properly. I found this was due to the screws that hold the replaceable derailleur hanger in place. After a minute or so with a file the wheel fit and the cassette spun properly.

I went to intall the chain I bought (10spd wipperman) and just draping over the cassette and chain rings, it seems as if there is not enough clearance for the chain to run without touching the frame.

Can a 10spd system be run on this frame? Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Is the hub used? Has someone disassembled it before and played with the spacers?

Is the frame 130mm spaced?

It almost sounds like the hub is dished over a tiny bit too much on the drive side..

IT better be, the caad 5 r800 was spec'ed with 9s shimano. It is 130mm.

I am pretty sure the frame is 130mm spaced. The rear wheel fits in the dropouts just fine.

There doesn't seem to be an issue with the spacers either.

Could it be that the frame can not run 10spd?

No.

How much clearance you think it needs? If it's barely any, you could probably repsace the hub over that tiny amount (~1-2mm?)

The dishing is spot on (using a park WAG-3, no tire installed). How does dishing affect the space between the frame and the cassette though?

Perhaps it needs about 2 maybe 3mm. Are there add-on spacers for record hubs, or do I need to remove the axle and head to the hardware store and get a washer or 2 in the correct size?


Or is there another way to respace the hub?

I'm not talking about dishing. I'm talking about moving the entire hub over, hardware and everything along the axle so that you have that clerance between the last cog and the frame (with the chain on).


Read above.

move a washer from the non cassette side to the cassette side.

OK...I just completely disassembled the hub and performed a complete bearing overhaul. There are no spacers to flip from one side to the other like a shimano hub or others like it with a threaded axle. The campy record hub that I have does not have a conventional threaded axle. The drive side cone rests in a fixed position and all adjustments are done by turning a lockring on the non-drive side of the hub that clamps down with 2.5mm allen head bolt.

There is only about 2.5mm of clearance between the face of the teeth of my smallest cog and the face of the dropout (measured by sticking a 2.5mm allen key between the two and it bearly fits). I cannot see how the chain could possibly run without grinding on the dropout.

Is there some secret way to respace the axel?

If you have the newer oversized alumninum axle hub, there are no washers to be moved around. See page 13 of the linked PDF. There may be something wrong with the cassette body position relative to the right end of the axle, the cassette not mounted properly, some wrong spacers in the cassette. I measured my Campy hub with an 11 speed cassette and the end of the axle that bears against the frame only protrudes 1.5mm or about 1/16 inch beyond the face of the cassette lockring.

https://www.campagnolo.com/repository...0-B-010909.pdf

You may be worried for nothing. I just measured the gap between the smallest cog's teeth and the dropout face on two Litespeed frames. One has a 10-speed Campy Chorus hub and cassette with an older Wippermann 6 mm wide 10-speed chain. The second has a Dura Ace hub, a 9-speed Shimano cassette and a 9-speed Shimano chain. In both cases the clearance is 3 mm or a bit less and the chains never rub on the dropout faces.

As DaveSSS mentioned, the clearances between the dropout faces and the front of the lockrings are much less. Less than 1.5 mm for the Campy hub and a tight 2 mm for the Shimano.

You may be right, but here are some pictures of the gap for further analysis.

DSCN0030.jpgDSCN0028.jpgDSCN0029.jpgDSCN0031.jpgDSCN0032.jpg

In photo #1 and photo #4 it appears that the derailleur hanger bolts are protruding. Are those the correct bolts for the derailleur hanger?

Irrelevant. He already says in the OP those are grounded down. Now whether the hanger is the correct one is another question.

He appeared to file it down enough to spin the wheel. He doesn't appear to have filed them flush. This will interfere with the chain.

It looks to me as if the bolts are much closer to the axle than the chain. I don't see a problem.
Wrap the chain around the smallest cog and see if it hits anything.
Of course you should have a Campy 5.9 chain.

Al

The bolts in question are not in the vicinity of the cog teeth. They were binding against the lockring, so I filed them down a bit.

I have wrapped a wipperman 10spd chain around the smallest cog and have run it to the large chainring. It seems like it would strike the forward inside edge of the dropout. I need to size the chain and install bars and shifter/brake levers before I will be able to tell if this will really be a problem.

I assume the (yeah I know what the means) that the hanger is correct for the frame. The frame was advertised as only built up and put on display. It does not show any normal wear for a bike that was ridden. So, again, I assume that it is stock for the frame.

Here are a few photos of my old SR500 with 10 sped Utegra spacing looks about the same my chain is close but never rubs you may need to work on spacing on the hub.DSC05031.jpgDSC05028.jpg

Hub can not be respaced. It is a campy record which is very different from a conventional threaded axle hub.

I checked the tech documents on cannondale's website and the derailleur hangar I have matches up with the pics and charts. The instructions even say to file the end of the bolts if they protrude against the cassette.

The only thing I need to complete this build is to purchase some bars and install the ergo and cables, and size and install the chain. I will post results once the build is complete.

-Z

... rofl

You're asking us to help you solve a *theoretical* problem?

Good god, just run the chain and see if it *is* a problem. All you need is to have the derailleur/crankset and rear wheel installed...

If you absolutely need to move the small cog to the left, you could add a 1 or 2 mm spacer washer on the outside of the driveside locknut. Since the frame undoubtedly has vertical dropouts, it shouldn't be a problem with the axle moving if you tighten the qr adequately and the remaining axle protrusion will be plenty.

But, be sure you really have a problem before you correct the unnecessary.

LOL, if someone had the experience of trying it, it would be helpful to read the answer.