fixed/fixed -> fixed/single?
02-11-10 | 09:10 PM
#1
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: SFV
Bikes: Bianchi Pista
fixed/fixed -> fixed/single?
Let me start off by saying that I am relatively new to the whole cycling world. I am currently in the process of putting together a new wheel set for my Bianchi Pista (Japanese spec) and have a question regarding hubs. I have been looking at some second-hand Dura-Ace track hubs that were used for racing. They are noted as being fixed/fixed hubs. Am I correct in assuming that if the the rear hub is threaded on both sides that I could replace one side with a freewheel to convert it to a flip-flop hub? Thanks for your help.
02-11-10 | 09:12 PM
#2
surly old man
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Carlisle, PA
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
Yup. Not a problem at all. jim
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Cross Check Nexus7, IRO Mark V, Trek 620 Nexus7, Karate Monkey half fat, IRO Model 19 fixed, Amp Research B3, Surly 1x1 half fat fixed, and more...
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SB forever
02-11-10 | 09:18 PM
#3
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
I'm too lazy to go downstairs to check for sure, but doesn't a fixed hub have 2 stage threading? Clockwise for the cog and counter clockwise for the lockring?
I'm thinking a fixed/fixed hub would have 2 stage threading on both sides and a fixed/freewheel has only clockwise threading on one side.
I'm thinking a fixed/fixed hub would have 2 stage threading on both sides and a fixed/freewheel has only clockwise threading on one side.
02-11-10 | 09:20 PM
#4
cab horn
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Let me start off by saying that I am relatively new to the whole cycling world. I am currently in the process of putting together a new wheel set for my Bianchi Pista (Japanese spec) and have a question regarding hubs. I have been looking at some second-hand Dura-Ace track hubs that were used for racing. They are noted as being fixed/fixed hubs. Am I correct in assuming that if the the rear hub is threaded on both sides that I could replace one side with a freewheel to convert it to a flip-flop hub? Thanks for your help.
02-11-10 | 09:37 PM
#5
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
+1, no problem with a freewheel on a fixed hub. The reverse thread is smaller and doesn't present a problem.
The reverse isn't true, you shouldn't expect locktite or anything else to properly secure a fixed sprocket onto a hub without the reverse threaded lockring.
The reverse isn't true, you shouldn't expect locktite or anything else to properly secure a fixed sprocket onto a hub without the reverse threaded lockring.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
02-11-10 | 10:04 PM
#6
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02-11-10 | 10:43 PM
#7
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
That's the problem with bonding the sprockets on. You get the worst of two worlds.
You can't rely on to stay on when you need them to, and you can't count on to come off when you want them to.
Try using heat to weaken the bond. If you have a propane torch slowly heat the sprocket while keeping steady torque on it with a chain whip. Be carefull the melting temp of aluminum is fairly low and unlike steel, it goes very suddenly from solid to liquid.
If you expect to do work with heat a lot you might consider using temperature sticks to help you manage the process.
You can't rely on to stay on when you need them to, and you can't count on to come off when you want them to.
Try using heat to weaken the bond. If you have a propane torch slowly heat the sprocket while keeping steady torque on it with a chain whip. Be carefull the melting temp of aluminum is fairly low and unlike steel, it goes very suddenly from solid to liquid.
If you expect to do work with heat a lot you might consider using temperature sticks to help you manage the process.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
02-11-10 | 10:46 PM
#8
cab horn
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
That's the problem with bonding the sprockets on. You get the worst of two worlds.
You can't rely on to stay on when you need them to, and you can't count on to come off when you want them to.
Try using heat to weaken the bond. If you have a propane torch slowly heat the sprocket while keeping steady torque on it with a chain whip. Be carefull the melting temp of aluminum is fairly low and unlike steel, it goes very suddenly from solid to liquid.
If you expect to do work with heat a lot you might consider using temperature sticks to help you manage the process.
You can't rely on to stay on when you need them to, and you can't count on to come off when you want them to.
Try using heat to weaken the bond. If you have a propane torch slowly heat the sprocket while keeping steady torque on it with a chain whip. Be carefull the melting temp of aluminum is fairly low and unlike steel, it goes very suddenly from solid to liquid.
If you expect to do work with heat a lot you might consider using temperature sticks to help you manage the process.
02-12-10 | 05:46 PM
#9
Old fart
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,316
Likes: 5,226
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
I'm too lazy to go downstairs to check for sure, but doesn't a fixed hub have 2 stage threading? Clockwise for the cog and counter clockwise for the lockring?
I'm thinking a fixed/fixed hub would have 2 stage threading on both sides and a fixed/freewheel has only clockwise threading on one side.
I'm thinking a fixed/fixed hub would have 2 stage threading on both sides and a fixed/freewheel has only clockwise threading on one side.
02-12-10 | 06:03 PM
#11
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From: Sacramento, California, USA
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
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