Lousy brakes!!
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 1
Lousy brakes!!
Hi all,
I have this road bike which has almost non-existent brakes even when new, expecially on the rear. The front has sufficient stopping power, but the rear is pretty terrible. Now that the pads are worn off, its time to change!
However, being a complete bike repair noob, I dont know what type of pads to change to. Doesn't look like those brake pads of modern bikes too.
Attached are the pics of my brake system and pads, would appreciate if anyone could help me see what type of pads do i need and any recommendations for pads? Sorry for the crappy phone pics, camera is damaged at the moment.
Thanks!
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I have this road bike which has almost non-existent brakes even when new, expecially on the rear. The front has sufficient stopping power, but the rear is pretty terrible. Now that the pads are worn off, its time to change!
However, being a complete bike repair noob, I dont know what type of pads to change to. Doesn't look like those brake pads of modern bikes too.
Attached are the pics of my brake system and pads, would appreciate if anyone could help me see what type of pads do i need and any recommendations for pads? Sorry for the crappy phone pics, camera is damaged at the moment.
Thanks!
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#2
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2009
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Bikes: Masi, Giant TCR, Eisentraut (retired), Jamis Aurora Elite, Zullo, Cannondale, 84 & 93 Stumpjumpers, Waterford, Tern D8, Bianchi, Gunner Roadie, Serotta, Serotta Duette, was gifted a Diamond Back
1. rear brakes are always much worse than front brakes for stopping power.
2. get some koolstop salmon
2. get some koolstop salmon
#3
Bianchi Goddess



Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
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I don't know how long you have had this bike but... your rear pads look completely worn out!
as cyclist says try some salmon brakepads. somthing like these should be great on this bike. once they are installed you can change the rubber pad without fooling wiht the adjustment/alignment of the holder.
als brush your rims with some real fine grit sandpaper or scotchbrite and then wipe them off with rubbing alcohol to clean the off real good.
lastley have a bike shop adjust your brakes, since you are a novice. or see if you have a bike co-op that someone can teach you to properly adjust them.
https://www.ebikestop.com/koolstop_cr...pad-BR2170.php
as cyclist says try some salmon brakepads. somthing like these should be great on this bike. once they are installed you can change the rubber pad without fooling wiht the adjustment/alignment of the holder.
als brush your rims with some real fine grit sandpaper or scotchbrite and then wipe them off with rubbing alcohol to clean the off real good.
lastley have a bike shop adjust your brakes, since you are a novice. or see if you have a bike co-op that someone can teach you to properly adjust them.
https://www.ebikestop.com/koolstop_cr...pad-BR2170.php
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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#4
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
+1. Rear brake pads are completely worn out. Big time.
+2. Use the front brake more, I would like to see a picture of those pads.
That picture looks like a bottom end brake caliper, although it should work. XMart bike?
+2. Use the front brake more, I would like to see a picture of those pads.
That picture looks like a bottom end brake caliper, although it should work. XMart bike?
#6
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 1
Thanks for the suggestions. Yep, its really worn out all the way. Left with a wafer thin strip of braking rubber. I guess you could say its a x-mart bike, costs less than 150, but pretty solidly built. Much ligher than x-mart bikes, and much better components too (relative).
Front pads are also wearing out, though they still could probably last about 500km more or so.
Also, the rim braking surface is quite bad (when i just slide my finger across it, can feel the ridges quite distinctly. any way to smoothen it out)
Once again, thanks!
Front pads are also wearing out, though they still could probably last about 500km more or so.
Also, the rim braking surface is quite bad (when i just slide my finger across it, can feel the ridges quite distinctly. any way to smoothen it out)
Once again, thanks!
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 5,300
Likes: 115
let the new brake pads smooth it out, check the brake pads for any imbedded grit after time. Those ridges developed because grit,sand, aluminum got imbedded in the shoes and were never cleaned out so they ground the rim in one spot.
Last edited by LeeG; 05-23-10 at 10:24 AM.
#8
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
There are two simple test for braking power.
The rear brake should be capable or locking the rear wheel on dry level pavement. If it can do that there's nothing more it can do, since it's braking power exceeds the tire's traction. BTW- this is a mandatory requirement in most states, and also under years old CPSC requirements, so any brake that cannot is inadequate, and things like replacing shoes, cleaning the rims, replacing cables might help. In some cases cheaply made calipers need to be replaced.
The front brake should be able to apply enough stopping power to lift the rear wheel off the ground. Here again, it's the most it can do, because any more stopping power will flip the bike. This test obviously has a degree of hazard, and should be approached with caution, increasing braking effort by degrees over multiple tests, until you're either happy with the brakes, or feel you've reached the tipping point.
If both brakes are capable of achieving maximum braking power, the other issues are modulation and predictability, which is what separates better systems from worse, and rider technique. With practice a rider develops technique for proportioning his braking effort properly between both brakes for effective, controlled braking.
The rear brake should be capable or locking the rear wheel on dry level pavement. If it can do that there's nothing more it can do, since it's braking power exceeds the tire's traction. BTW- this is a mandatory requirement in most states, and also under years old CPSC requirements, so any brake that cannot is inadequate, and things like replacing shoes, cleaning the rims, replacing cables might help. In some cases cheaply made calipers need to be replaced.
The front brake should be able to apply enough stopping power to lift the rear wheel off the ground. Here again, it's the most it can do, because any more stopping power will flip the bike. This test obviously has a degree of hazard, and should be approached with caution, increasing braking effort by degrees over multiple tests, until you're either happy with the brakes, or feel you've reached the tipping point.
If both brakes are capable of achieving maximum braking power, the other issues are modulation and predictability, which is what separates better systems from worse, and rider technique. With practice a rider develops technique for proportioning his braking effort properly between both brakes for effective, controlled braking.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.






