Mavic Cosmos spokes
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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Mavic Cosmos spokes
Guys i came around a set of mavic cosmos and im still thinking on buying them but i have a few questions, this things use straight pull spokes, the spokes are specially made for this wheels or a sapim or dt straight pull spokes can be used as a replacement if one spoke give up? Anybody knows? Have not being able to find the answer in the web just in case.
I'm asking because apparently the hub is pretty good and the wheel could look pretty nice with a 30 mm rim, and that means to replace all the spokes for shorter ones.
Thanks in advance...
I'm asking because apparently the hub is pretty good and the wheel could look pretty nice with a 30 mm rim, and that means to replace all the spokes for shorter ones.
Thanks in advance...
#3
Senior Member

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,103
Likes: 96
From: Wilmington, DE
Bikes: 2016 Hong Fu FM-079-F, 1984 Trek 660, 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2016 Islabikes Beinn 20 (son's)
They are standard straight pull 2.0mm spokes. If swapping out the rim, you have a few options:
1. Source Sapim straight pull spokes from one of numerous shops. I’d go with butted spokes on the rebuild for several reason but you can stick with straight gauge to save money.
2. Assuming you are using a deeper rim, find a local shop with a spoke cutter and have them remove the appropriate excess length and add extra threads. More hassle but may be cheaper.
I still use a set of these wheels (on my retromod Trek 660) purchased in 2004 I think. Thanks to Mavic’s dumb luck their hubs accept 11 speed cassettes unlike most other older wheelsets making them a great low budget option for a modern build. And the hubs and rims are quite robust.
1. Source Sapim straight pull spokes from one of numerous shops. I’d go with butted spokes on the rebuild for several reason but you can stick with straight gauge to save money.
2. Assuming you are using a deeper rim, find a local shop with a spoke cutter and have them remove the appropriate excess length and add extra threads. More hassle but may be cheaper.
I still use a set of these wheels (on my retromod Trek 660) purchased in 2004 I think. Thanks to Mavic’s dumb luck their hubs accept 11 speed cassettes unlike most other older wheelsets making them a great low budget option for a modern build. And the hubs and rims are quite robust.
#4
Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 39
Likes: 2
Thank you!
JoeJack,
Thank you for the information. In 2003, I got an Iron Horse Victory that came with the Cosmos Wheelset. I've only needed to true them once. Recently, I wanted to install a 46/30 crankset on it...and surprise! The seat tube had a crack, the mechanic saw it, so I couldn't install it. I am in the process of getting a bike frame. The rear rim is worn, and eventually I'll have to replace it. I've found that a Mavic Open Pro rim will be a good option. You can choose this rim in 28 h. For the front rim you can get DT Swiss 24 h. So, if I replace the rear rim, it would be a good time to replace the spokes too.
Since you installed straight pull Sapim spokes on the Cosmos Hubs, I guess I can try DT Swiss Competition DB, or Wheelsmith DB...whichever I can get, here in Mexico City. The original spokes are Mavic 2.3/2.0.
Marco.
Thank you for the information. In 2003, I got an Iron Horse Victory that came with the Cosmos Wheelset. I've only needed to true them once. Recently, I wanted to install a 46/30 crankset on it...and surprise! The seat tube had a crack, the mechanic saw it, so I couldn't install it. I am in the process of getting a bike frame. The rear rim is worn, and eventually I'll have to replace it. I've found that a Mavic Open Pro rim will be a good option. You can choose this rim in 28 h. For the front rim you can get DT Swiss 24 h. So, if I replace the rear rim, it would be a good time to replace the spokes too.
Since you installed straight pull Sapim spokes on the Cosmos Hubs, I guess I can try DT Swiss Competition DB, or Wheelsmith DB...whichever I can get, here in Mexico City. The original spokes are Mavic 2.3/2.0.
Marco.
They are standard straight pull 2.0mm spokes. If swapping out the rim, you have a few options:
1. Source Sapim straight pull spokes from one of numerous shops. I’d go with butted spokes on the rebuild for several reason but you can stick with straight gauge to save money.
2. Assuming you are using a deeper rim, find a local shop with a spoke cutter and have them remove the appropriate excess length and add extra threads. More hassle but may be cheaper.
I still use a set of these wheels (on my retromod Trek 660) purchased in 2004 I think. Thanks to Mavic’s dumb luck their hubs accept 11 speed cassettes unlike most other older wheelsets making them a great low budget option for a modern build. And the hubs and rims are quite robust.
1. Source Sapim straight pull spokes from one of numerous shops. I’d go with butted spokes on the rebuild for several reason but you can stick with straight gauge to save money.
2. Assuming you are using a deeper rim, find a local shop with a spoke cutter and have them remove the appropriate excess length and add extra threads. More hassle but may be cheaper.
I still use a set of these wheels (on my retromod Trek 660) purchased in 2004 I think. Thanks to Mavic’s dumb luck their hubs accept 11 speed cassettes unlike most other older wheelsets making them a great low budget option for a modern build. And the hubs and rims are quite robust.
Last edited by marcoguzm; 08-12-19 at 07:35 AM. Reason: spelling
#5
Newbie
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 33
Likes: 7
The spokes on my Cosmos wheel have a short, flattened section near the head end which makes slotting them into the hub flange easier. Do all straight pull spokes have this feature? If not, I'm wondering if standard replacements will work ok, or if I will have to create a flattened section myself. I'm not sure how easy DIY'ing a flat section would be.
Last edited by Roundis; 09-26-24 at 08:39 AM.
#6
The spokes on my Cosmos wheel have a short, flattened section near the head end which makes slotting them into the hub flange easier. Do all straight pull spokes have this feature? If not, I'm wondering if standard replacements will work ok, or if I will have to create a flattened section myself. I'm not sure how easy DIY'ing a flat section would be.
I have not tried cold forging a flattened section behind the head. Not sure about how it may comprise the spokes.
#8
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
If you can't fit a standard straight pull spoke, and can't source the original Mavic spoke, you can make one.
You'll need two punches or chisels, a file or grinder, vise, and a hammer.
First shape the ends of the chisels to match the flat spot you need. Be sure they're flat for the desired width, with no sharp edges.
Once the punches are ready stand one in the vise as the anvil, set the spoke across and use the hammer and second punch to shape the spoke. Odds are you'll need to recruit a friend to hold the spoke.
Buy or scrounge a few stainless spokes to practice on until you developed the touch to consistently get the desired result.
No worries about weak spots because you're actually strengthening the spoke there.
You'll need two punches or chisels, a file or grinder, vise, and a hammer.
First shape the ends of the chisels to match the flat spot you need. Be sure they're flat for the desired width, with no sharp edges.
Once the punches are ready stand one in the vise as the anvil, set the spoke across and use the hammer and second punch to shape the spoke. Odds are you'll need to recruit a friend to hold the spoke.
Buy or scrounge a few stainless spokes to practice on until you developed the touch to consistently get the desired result.
No worries about weak spots because you're actually strengthening the spoke there.
#9
Although I have never tried it I think I would go with FB’s suggestion.
I just measured one to give you an idea of the dimensions to shoot for.
the flattened area is 3mm long and 1.3 mm thick.

I just measured one to give you an idea of the dimensions to shoot for.
the flattened area is 3mm long and 1.3 mm thick.

#10
Newbie
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 33
Likes: 7
Thanks. Though my spokes aren't aero, and the flattened area is 1.7 mm thick (and the adjacent area is 2.3 mm diameter). I think a standard spoke might squeeze in but I haven't got the replacements yet to try it.
#11
However, a 30mm profile is not all that deep so even if you are starting from box section rims the spokes wouldn’t have to be shortened all that much.
If the spokes are straight gauge, they can be shortened to any length.
Even the aero spokes I referenced could easily be shortened 15mm or more.
So if you have a shop nearby with a spoke cutter/ threader, that’s an option.
Edit. I t was the OP that was talking about swapping in a 30mm rim . Just realized my error there.
Last edited by Dan Burkhart; 09-28-24 at 10:55 AM.
#12
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Joined: Jul 2015
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
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