fork/integrated headset ?
#1
fork/integrated headset ?
I have a brand new Winwood muddy cx fork. I planned on installing it with a conventional headset.
Now i am looking at the cheapie Chinese carbon cx frames that take an integrated headset.
Does the fork care what kind of frame/headset? As long as it's 1 1/8", of course.
Now i am looking at the cheapie Chinese carbon cx frames that take an integrated headset.
Does the fork care what kind of frame/headset? As long as it's 1 1/8", of course.
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
No, forks are pretty independent of spirit and don't really care about the frames they're shoved into.
Seriously, from the fork's standpoint the only difference between a standard threadless headset, and an integrated one might be the stack height. Otherwise it's all good.
BTW- while you're riding that new bike, don't think of as a cheapie, think more like bargain, and enjoy it to the max.
Seriously, from the fork's standpoint the only difference between a standard threadless headset, and an integrated one might be the stack height. Otherwise it's all good.
BTW- while you're riding that new bike, don't think of as a cheapie, think more like bargain, and enjoy it to the max.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 204
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From: San Diego
Bikes: 2006 Bianchi 928 Record and 2002 Bianchi Axis 1x9
The fork does care about being integrated or not. You should see that listed in the fork specs for whatever fork you plan to purchase.
@FBinNY, while techinically true that the fork doesn't care, if you try to put a Reynold's Ouzo Pro fork (non-integrated) on a frame with integrated headset, it will look stupid.
@FBinNY, while techinically true that the fork doesn't care, if you try to put a Reynold's Ouzo Pro fork (non-integrated) on a frame with integrated headset, it will look stupid.
#4
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Forks with integrated crowns are rare. Most forks accept a press-on crown race. It doesn't give a flying **** what headset you're using on it. Almost all 1 1/8" threadless forks have the standard 26.4 crown race seat diameter. This will take all standard 'integrated' headsets, since they still feature seperate crown races.
#5
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
#6
No, forks are pretty independent of spirit and don't really care about the frames they're shoved into.
Seriously, from the fork's standpoint the only difference between a standard threadless headset, and an integrated one might be the stack height. Otherwise it's all good.
BTW- while you're riding that new bike, don't think of as a cheapie, think more like bargain, and enjoy it to the max.
Seriously, from the fork's standpoint the only difference between a standard threadless headset, and an integrated one might be the stack height. Otherwise it's all good.
BTW- while you're riding that new bike, don't think of as a cheapie, think more like bargain, and enjoy it to the max.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Bikes: 2006 Bianchi 928 Record and 2002 Bianchi Axis 1x9
@Operator
Have you ever put one of those on an integrated frame? It does look quite silly because the fork crown outer diameter is smaller than that of an integrated fork. I'm not talking about the crown race diameter, because you are correct in saying that it's pretty much standard on all forks.
Have you ever put one of those on an integrated frame? It does look quite silly because the fork crown outer diameter is smaller than that of an integrated fork. I'm not talking about the crown race diameter, because you are correct in saying that it's pretty much standard on all forks.
#9
The specific fork/frame I'm talking about are these:

Normally I would want to get the frame, fork, and headset from the same source, to ensure compatibility. However i already have this fork . . .
Normally I would want to get the frame, fork, and headset from the same source, to ensure compatibility. However i already have this fork . . .
#10
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I'm probably the wrong guy to ask. I'm something of a retro grouch when it comes to carbon. I don't dispute any of the benefits, but since I work in metal, and don't race I prefer metal stuff to carbon which I call "plastic"
With decent care, on good roads, and barring bad luck I'd venture that most carbon frames will outlast their owners attention span so that shouldn't be a worry. I have bikes ranging in age up to 44 years, but stuff changes so fast these days, that most people don't expect to keep a bike much more than a few years anyway.
My problem with carbon is that it's impolite, and things will appear perfectly OK one day, and the next day, with zero warning, they are beyond repair. What a mechanic friend calls "digital failure". It's kinda like the difference between carburetor cars of old and modern electronic fuel injection. The new stuff is undoubtably better, but when a carburetor acts up you can tinker a bit and limp home, and with electronic ignition, the only thing to do is call a tow.
With decent care, on good roads, and barring bad luck I'd venture that most carbon frames will outlast their owners attention span so that shouldn't be a worry. I have bikes ranging in age up to 44 years, but stuff changes so fast these days, that most people don't expect to keep a bike much more than a few years anyway.
My problem with carbon is that it's impolite, and things will appear perfectly OK one day, and the next day, with zero warning, they are beyond repair. What a mechanic friend calls "digital failure". It's kinda like the difference between carburetor cars of old and modern electronic fuel injection. The new stuff is undoubtably better, but when a carburetor acts up you can tinker a bit and limp home, and with electronic ignition, the only thing to do is call a tow.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#11
I'm probably the wrong guy to ask. I'm something of a retro grouch when it comes to carbon. I don't dispute any of the benefits, but since I work in metal, and don't race I prefer metal stuff to carbon which I call "plastic"
With decent care, on good roads, and barring bad luck I'd venture that most carbon frames will outlast their owners attention span so that shouldn't be a worry. I have bikes ranging in age up to 44 years, but stuff changes so fast these days, that most people don't expect to keep a bike much more than a few years anyway.
My problem with carbon is that it's impolite, and things will appear perfectly OK one day, and the next day, with zero warning, they are beyond repair. What a mechanic friend calls "digital failure". It's kinda like the difference between carburetor cars of old and modern electronic fuel injection. The new stuff is undoubtably better, but when a carburetor acts up you can tinker a bit and limp home, and with electronic ignition, the only thing to do is call a tow.
With decent care, on good roads, and barring bad luck I'd venture that most carbon frames will outlast their owners attention span so that shouldn't be a worry. I have bikes ranging in age up to 44 years, but stuff changes so fast these days, that most people don't expect to keep a bike much more than a few years anyway.
My problem with carbon is that it's impolite, and things will appear perfectly OK one day, and the next day, with zero warning, they are beyond repair. What a mechanic friend calls "digital failure". It's kinda like the difference between carburetor cars of old and modern electronic fuel injection. The new stuff is undoubtably better, but when a carburetor acts up you can tinker a bit and limp home, and with electronic ignition, the only thing to do is call a tow.
#12
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I'm with you here. Even I would probably put aside my skepticism and go with the carbon frame. At that cost difference you could replace it every few years and still be ahead 10 years from now.
BTW- it isn't that carbon frames are weaker. No material is inherently weaker or stronger. That depends on how much material and how it's used, and many carbon frames are actually stronger than their metal counterparts. My concern is with the nature of failure, though I'm more comfortable with frames than I'm am critical things like fork steerers.
One question. It appears to have Canti bosses, as does your fork, are you planning on riding Cyclocross aggressively, or is this a road/touring bike? If the former, be sure to inspect it from time to time. If the latter, the fact that it might be built for cyclocross might indicate a more conservative, stronger frame, which is a plus.
BTW- it isn't that carbon frames are weaker. No material is inherently weaker or stronger. That depends on how much material and how it's used, and many carbon frames are actually stronger than their metal counterparts. My concern is with the nature of failure, though I'm more comfortable with frames than I'm am critical things like fork steerers.
One question. It appears to have Canti bosses, as does your fork, are you planning on riding Cyclocross aggressively, or is this a road/touring bike? If the former, be sure to inspect it from time to time. If the latter, the fact that it might be built for cyclocross might indicate a more conservative, stronger frame, which is a plus.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#13
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
There are a few different integrated headset specs, in so far as bore in the headtube goes , you need to get the right brand of headset. I read you thought about trying to use an external type headset instead, wonder why , just get the right parts..
I have a bike with an integrated headset, got a locking spacer to go on top of the headset, to keep the fork in the frame and headset's various parts together, so it's no problem now. A Cross bike with a clamp on front brake hanger for the cantilever brakes, 1st thing above the top race, will have the same function ..
I have a bike with an integrated headset, got a locking spacer to go on top of the headset, to keep the fork in the frame and headset's various parts together, so it's no problem now. A Cross bike with a clamp on front brake hanger for the cantilever brakes, 1st thing above the top race, will have the same function ..
#14
Senior Member

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,103
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From: Wilmington, DE
Bikes: 2016 Hong Fu FM-079-F, 1984 Trek 660, 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2016 Islabikes Beinn 20 (son's)
That frame pic looks almost identical to the Pedal Force CX1 frame save for the modified head tube. I've been commuting on that frame for ~9 months and 4500 miles. I carry a pannier on a rear rack (attached at drop outs and canti bosses) weighing 5-10 lbs. daily and ride in all weather (aside from snow when I switch to my snow bike). Complete bike with full fenders, front and rear lights including a big li-ion headlight battery, rack, front disc brake, 28mm tires, etc. weighs under 24 lbs. I love it.
#15
One question. It appears to have Canti bosses, as does your fork, are you planning on riding Cyclocross aggressively, or is this a road/touring bike? If the former, be sure to inspect it from time to time. If the latter, the fact that it might be built for cyclocross might indicate a more conservative, stronger frame, which is a plus.
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