I think I just made an expensive (half-asleep) mistake: I "closed" a new SRAM Powerlock chain after doing the wrap-around thing for length... only I didn't run the thing through the derailleur. Very embarrassing. Is there anyway to recover? Thanks in advance.

Update: I eventually got the tool which made removing the Powerlock (i.e. not Powerlink a breeze.

https://www.parktool.com/products/det...t=5&item=MLP-1

So ignore the dire warnings about using the link only once? Interesting. I imagine the tool is less expensive than a new chain.

The once-only crap is just an end-run around the Superlink patent for a *reusable* link.
I always remove my chain for cleaning and lubing.

Take a close look at a Powerlock and a Powerlink side-by-side, and you can see the tiny raised area they added just to make it difficult to disassemble.
The MLP-1 pops it apart easily, and also makes opening Powerlinks easier.
I just put on a new SRAM 10s chain today, and routed around the wrong side of the tab inside the RD cage.

I'm sold. It's funny I did take a close look at the link and wondered "what's the difference with the old 9-speed removable link I had some years ago?".

Anybody thoughts on where to pick one up in NYC tomorrow??? Thanks!

Must've been the day for 10 sod SRAM installs. I just put a 1090 on this afternoon too, and almost put the link in "backward", against the arrow.

I've used their 10 spd Powerlocks a few times, but this is the first time they specified a direction for the link.

Anyone know why they are now specifying a direction now?

I didn't even notice the arrows.
I just went out and looked;
The new 1050 on the touring bike has it, the two-year-old 1090R on the road bike does not.
The instructions in the box don't even mention it.

I believe the directional link is a new feature. I've been using 1090 for ~2 years, and those did not have the arrows. I bought a 1090 last month and it has the directional arrow.
I am not sure why SRAM is specifying the direction. I've never heard of problems (nor have I experienced problems) with the arrow-less links.

My guess would be that they decided the shifting is better with that orientation.

Those arrows are on both plates pointing in opposite directions no?

I believe so. But the instruction illustration indicates the point of view from the drive side.

I called a bunch of shops in NYC to see if anyone had a tool in stock. I figure I'll need one to clean the chain. Nobody had it, few knew what I was talking about(!). I ordered a tool on eBay -- seller isn't very far so I expect here in a couple of days.

I had to remove a link today. i took two narrow flat tip screwdrivers and inserted them on each side of the link. I squeezed the screwdrivers together and the link popped open. Note, this was with a clean/new chain.

If I were desperate, I would have done the same but I'd rather not risk damaging a new chain when I can simply ride another bike until the right tool appears in my toolchest. Good to know that such a trick can work without too much effort.

Nah, that's not going to hurt anything. The force of the chainring teeth is FAR more than using a couple little screwdrivers to open it, or sticking a piece of coathanger in there and twisting it to open the link. The right tool is way better though.

SRAM claims that their Powerlinks are removable by hand. I think that this only works if the chain is brand new or you remove it every week for cleaning. I've never been able to do it by hand. To begin, squeeze the links together with your fingers; even if you can't remove it by hand, you might be able to get the pins to disengage manually. Insert a leftover cable end (paper clips and some wires break to easily when twisted) through the chain, around the pins of the powerlink. Use a pair of pliers to twist the cable, pulling the two pins toward one another. It worked like a charm when I did it.

correct me if i am wrong:

powerlink- reuseable
powerlock- one time use*

*mfg claim

Correct.
PowerLINK is 8s or 9s (silver or gold)
PowerLOCK is 10s (black)

You definitely need the Park MLP-1 to remove the PowerLOCK, and it also makes it easier to remove the PowerLINK.

how bout the kmc 10spd link?

I eventually got the tool which made removing the Powerlock a breeze.