okay, here goes. looking for any common pitfalls I will face when changing from a threaded headset to a threadless(aside from the obvious question of headtube diameter.) i have to change to threadless for the new fork I want to buy. also, though i suspect the answer to this will be a resounding "YES!", is it worth it to upgrade from cantilever to V-brakes? Thanks for any help that might be provided.

threaded to threadless conversion will require:

new headset,
new forks,
stem
star fangeled (sp?) nut

you are going to have to remove the old headset from the head tube, then replace it with the new headset, your lbs can do it with a press or if you are careful you can do it with a c clamp and two pieces of wood. then put the fork in and attach the stem, and see where you want to cut the steerer tube on the fork.

it's not too terribly difficult

I would only add that before you cut the fork that you experiment with height adjustments of the stem to be sure it's in the most comfortable position for you. You'll need several washers for this.

thanks, my only problem now is figuring out if i have 1 1/8" headtube or 1". because if it's 1" i'm going to have to much trouble finding a cheap but decent suspension fork.

If it's any help, I recall someone saying Marzocci (sp?) do forks with a 1" steerer and British PACE forks do because the steerer is seperate from the crown - they are hellishly expensive but they are handmade and extremely light compared to others...

Take a look at PACE RACING

They do a 100mm downhill big travel and a 63mm XC fork, both fully adjustable and with remote lock-out lever.

Price ? £400-475

okay, check this out. because this is SO not fair. it's 1 1/4" . this is not cool. not cool at all. not only will it be hard to find a suspension fork, i'll have real trouble finding a fork! so here's the real question: why was specialized putting 1 1/4" headtubes on their '98 or '99 (can't remember which year i got it) hardrock bikes?

Bummer , I think the theory was that 1 1/4" would be stronger than existing sizes. It is worth looking at companies that have a removable steerer such as Marzocchi and PACE.

okay, check this out. i did some more research on the web, (out of desperation, i really want to get this fork) and i came across this page.

https://www.parktool.com/repair_help/..._headset.shtml

if you scroll to the bottom of the page, it gives all the dimensions for all the different standards out there, at least that i can think of. now the dimension it lists as 1 1/8" on the 1 1/8" standard is the "fork collumn outside diameter" (read: steerer tube ouside diameter) and it lists the "acceptable headtube ID(inside diameter) as 33.75 -33.9 mm ( in the range of 1 5/16".) sure enough, i took the measurement once again, and it is somewhere within that range. I don't mean to doubt you Astra, but it seems pretty clear. are you sure that the diameter that i need is the head tube inside diameter, or is the site correct, and the diameter that i need the steerer outside diameter?

I stand corrected . The measurement presumably therefore is that of the fork steerer and thus the threads in the locknuts at the top of the headset.

Pheeeew, that's that one cleared up, the fork world is now the bi-valve of your choice !

cool! thanks for all the help.

even if it was the case that you need 1 1/4" I believe both rock shox and marzoochi both make them in this size. IMO it is easier to find 1 1/4" then it is for 1" forks. anyhow you can choose whatever you want since you know it is 1 1/8"

ah yes, but the problem was that nashbar has that judy tt on sale for 99.00 and that's about all i'm willing to spend for a fork on this bike. anyway, here's my next question: headset cup remover and crown race setter. do i need to purchase these tools, or can you guys tell me a way to do these things without?

if it is a threaded headset you will not need the remover... not sure what the other tool is for...

:confused:

the other tool sets the crown race onto the crown on the fork. it is threaded, how do i get it off?

well on my threaded fork it just screws off. take a cresent wrench to it. (make sure you don't strip anything though ) the crown setter would be used on your new forks... that is if the crown is seperate? I'm not really sure because I have never done it

Since you're changing to threadless I'm assuming you don't care if you save the old head set cups. A long punch will catch on the lip of the cup, tap around to get them out. Sometimes this dings the cups (not very often at all) so it is tough to reuse.

The crown race setter is to set the lower headset bearing race on the top of the crown. Often a slide hammer is used. I call it a piece of pipe. (a light coating of grease where the steerer tube necks up helps the race go on).

ah, but the question is, can i use a piece of pipe to do it, or do i need to get the tool? or could i just carefully tap it on with a sand hammer or mallet? here's one more question: when i use the two pieces of wood and c-clamp to set the headset cups, should i do both at the same time, or one at a time? caution would seem to indicate that one at a time would be the smartest choice, but i'm not sure.

Hmmm... My frame and forks are back from repair/respray this week so I'll be installing my new (cr@ppy) threaded headset. I think I'm going to use the G-clamp method and do 1 race at a time, this seems, like you suggest, to offer less possibility for a mis-alignment problem .

one cup at a time, it's how I did mine

make sure they line up really good before you start though