Freewheel -- Cassette switch?
10-12-10 | 11:35 PM
#1
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Freewheel -- Cassette switch?
I could use a new rear wheel for my road bike, and I'm thinking while I'm down there I might as well switch from the old freewheel style to a freehub and cassette if possible. Would this be a pain as far as parts compatability? Currently running all older Shimano parts (shifting group marked "SIS" only, Shimano 6-speed freewheel). Any help appreciated.
10-12-10 | 11:44 PM
#2
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
If you can find a 6-speed cassette system, there's no reason not to make the switch. But 6s cassette systems are pretty outdated, so you'd need to go to at least 7s or 8s, which would require replacing the shifter, and depending on the age of the RD, possibly it as well.
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10-12-10 | 11:47 PM
#3
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You can go up to a 8 speed cassette without changing the chain. You will have set your shifters in the friction mode or upgrade to a 8 speed shifter if you indexed shifting.
The biggest issues is that your 6 speed setup has 126mm at the rear dropouts. Modern road bikes with 8-10speed come with 130mm spacing. If your frame is steel there's a good chance that you might be able to just muscle it and jam the rear wheel in there. 4mm is not a whole lot. This is sorta a pain if you have to fix a flat though.
A better solution is to have it cold set by a bike shop or you can do it by following some online guides like Sheldon Brown's, google it.
Once you do this, you should make sure the dropouts are aligned afterwards. Also check and make sure the rear derailleur hanger is aligned while your at it.
I maybe wrong here, but another solution would be to replace the 130mm axle of the new modern 8spd freehub wheel with your original 126mm axle.
The biggest issues is that your 6 speed setup has 126mm at the rear dropouts. Modern road bikes with 8-10speed come with 130mm spacing. If your frame is steel there's a good chance that you might be able to just muscle it and jam the rear wheel in there. 4mm is not a whole lot. This is sorta a pain if you have to fix a flat though.
A better solution is to have it cold set by a bike shop or you can do it by following some online guides like Sheldon Brown's, google it.
Once you do this, you should make sure the dropouts are aligned afterwards. Also check and make sure the rear derailleur hanger is aligned while your at it.
I maybe wrong here, but another solution would be to replace the 130mm axle of the new modern 8spd freehub wheel with your original 126mm axle.
Last edited by 531phile; 10-12-10 at 11:54 PM.
10-13-10 | 12:16 AM
#4
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From: Madison, WI
Go for it. I'd get a 7 or 8-speed cassette so you can use your original shifters, they should still index fine. 9 and 10 speed cassettes have too narrow of spacing. Do you have downtube shifters? If so, they might be able to go beyond the last indexing point, allowing you to run an 8-speed cassette with the last two shifts being friction. You can test this by disengaging your shift cable. Pull the shifter back through all the indexing points, then try and pull it further. It should just slide back like it's in friction mode.
You can also get new shifters if you want. That will allow you to run however many speeds you want. 10-speed downtube or bar-end shifters are out there. You can probably keep your rear derailer unless it's worn out (or happens to be Dura-Ace!)
Regarding the spacing, you can jam it in there if you have a steel frame. But what I did when I put my 130mm wheel in my 126mm frame was just to remove the washer between the left locknut and cone. This reduced the spacing about 2-3mm allowing the wheel to slide in without stretching my frame. It was such a small difference I didn't even have to re-dish my wheel.
You can also get new shifters if you want. That will allow you to run however many speeds you want. 10-speed downtube or bar-end shifters are out there. You can probably keep your rear derailer unless it's worn out (or happens to be Dura-Ace!)
Regarding the spacing, you can jam it in there if you have a steel frame. But what I did when I put my 130mm wheel in my 126mm frame was just to remove the washer between the left locknut and cone. This reduced the spacing about 2-3mm allowing the wheel to slide in without stretching my frame. It was such a small difference I didn't even have to re-dish my wheel.
10-13-10 | 06:06 AM
#5
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From: Brooklyn NY
Bikes: Kuota Kredo/Chorus, Trek 7000 commuter, Trek 8000 MTB and a few others
I've put a 10sp cassette wheel onto my 126 spaced steel frame. I use downtube friction shifters and a Campy Nuovo Record rear derailleur. It shifts flawlessly. The cassette is Shimano Ultegra, a 10sp Shimano chain, 10sp Chorus crank. I can take the wheel off and on my frame without any problem. I just spread it slightly so the wheel slips in. What impresses me the most is the silence from my drivetrain.
You really don't need indexed shifting. With this setup you need a light touch to get the shift to happen. The Hyperglide chain and cassette work together to make the shift smooth and silent with the ramps on the cogs. You are rarely between gears as the spacing is so narrow. You don't get that clunk that you get with old 6 speed, nor do you get the click from the brifters.
Way back when indexed shifting came out the thought was the general public needed a reliable shifting mechanism that didn't require constant adjustment. This was to sell more bikes of course. Over time, Shimano and Campy improved their systems to where we are today. Indexing was always part of that system, but ramps on the cogs did more to improve shifting than are given credit, and make the indexing besides the point. I'm not saying that I don't like indexing, but it really isn't all that necessary with 9 or 10 speed.
You really don't need indexed shifting. With this setup you need a light touch to get the shift to happen. The Hyperglide chain and cassette work together to make the shift smooth and silent with the ramps on the cogs. You are rarely between gears as the spacing is so narrow. You don't get that clunk that you get with old 6 speed, nor do you get the click from the brifters.
Way back when indexed shifting came out the thought was the general public needed a reliable shifting mechanism that didn't require constant adjustment. This was to sell more bikes of course. Over time, Shimano and Campy improved their systems to where we are today. Indexing was always part of that system, but ramps on the cogs did more to improve shifting than are given credit, and make the indexing besides the point. I'm not saying that I don't like indexing, but it really isn't all that necessary with 9 or 10 speed.
