Replacing crankset/compatibility issues
#1
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Bikes: Jamis Single Speed, Cinelli Gazzetta Fixie
Replacing crankset/compatibility issues
Please forgive me if this has already been addressed in another thread but I couldn't find anything on it specifically. I currently have a 2007 Jamis Coda Comp (https://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/B...Comp&Type=bike) and am wondering if it would be possible to replace the crank with a Dura Ace 7703 triple 30/39/53. One was given to me so I thought I would at least see if it was possible. From what I understand just from reading, the R443 front derailleur on my bike should be able to handle up to 53t which is what the crank is. If anyone has any insight on this, I would be very grateful. I have the correct bottom bracket to go along with the crank as well. Thanks in advance for your help.
PS. I know this crank is kind of overkill for my bike and all but I figured since it was free, I would give it a try since the current crank on the bike isn't all that.
PS. I know this crank is kind of overkill for my bike and all but I figured since it was free, I would give it a try since the current crank on the bike isn't all that.
#2
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In this case the derailleur will probably handle the gears as it requires >=10 difference between high and medium chainrings, which is ok, and <=22 difference on high and low, and you would have 23, which is probably fine.
The other possible problem would be the chainline. I think from this website the current version of the FSA Vero triple is made for a BB-7420 (116mm) bottom bracket and the FC-7703 triple is made for the BB-7703, which is 118.5mm. I'm guessing two millimeters is not too bad...
The other possible problem would be the chainline. I think from this website the current version of the FSA Vero triple is made for a BB-7420 (116mm) bottom bracket and the FC-7703 triple is made for the BB-7703, which is 118.5mm. I'm guessing two millimeters is not too bad...
#4
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The new crankset is definitely octalink but I am not sure about the current bb. If it turns out not to be compatible at all, is there an upgrade you would recommend that would be an easy swap? I could always sell this crankset or trade for another one that would work. Again, I really appreciate your advice on this. While I love riding, I am still pretty new to working on bikes.
#5
17yrold in 64yrold body
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You would definitely need an Octalink BB, which should be for a triple. If I remember right, 113mm is for double, and 118 is for triple. I have gone 'back' to square taper, so am trying to do this from memory. I have an XTR triple that works great with a Campy 102mm cartridge bearing BB!
#6
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The new crankset is definitely octalink but I am not sure about the current bb. If it turns out not to be compatible at all, is there an upgrade you would recommend that would be an easy swap? I could always sell this crankset or trade for another one that would work. Again, I really appreciate your advice on this. While I love riding, I am still pretty new to working on bikes.
#7
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i have the correct bb to go with the 7703 crank already (Shimano BB-7703 Dura Ace Bottom Bracket 118mm Triple 68mm.) I'm pretty sure I have everything I would need, I'm just not sure if it would work with my flat bar shifters and current front derailleur.
#8
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From: Toronto, ON, Canada
The derailleur should likely be fine. Don't know if the flat bars will be an issue, though they might...
#9
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If it won't work pretty easily, I don't think I necessarily want to mess with it. I'd rather sell or trade the dura ace crankset/bb for one that would work with my setup more easily. Do you have any recommendations?
#10
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I haven't changed my bottom bracket myself. I have had that done at a shop, from what I have read it shouldn't be too hard. From experience changing a crankset is very easy, all it takes is a simple tool. I think the bottom bracket should be similar... The reason I mention this is that a shop should be able to do the work, and tell you whether it is compatible, so I am assuming you want to do the work yourself.
On the other hand the bottom bracket should fit, since I think the threading is the same (1.37"). The shifting shouldn't be affected, since you are not changing the derailleur and the positions of the gears are probably the same. The only thing is that the derailleur is supposed to want a 22 tooth difference between big and small chainring and you would have 23. Others can comment on whether this is an issue at all, or conservative specs... You might have to reposition the derailleur to deal with the minute difference in size of the big chainring.
#11
if you have the tools, you can convert this pretty easily, as you have the crank and BB already. You won't really have any compatability issues, as the chainline will be very close, even if the bb spindle is different. Have at it. Just take care to tighten the crank bolts to the proper torque.
-rob
-rob
#13
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the road drive train and flat bars , if indexing is required, has issues .
thumb shifters, like bar ends meet in the middle .
the front shift lever for road Brifters and MTB type
seem to have compatibility issues.. its the front index that's the issue.
thumb shifters, like bar ends meet in the middle .
the front shift lever for road Brifters and MTB type
seem to have compatibility issues.. its the front index that's the issue.
#14
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Would something like a Sugino XD600 triple w/ correct square taper bb be an easier swap? I don't necessarily want to drop something in with the same size chain rings if I don't have to. A little smaller would be better.
#15
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Should work. Might require adjusting the front derailleur. Shouldn't be a problem unless the gearing is very different.
#16
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Do you think I'm totally fine with the R443 front derailleur and the SL-R440 shifters or would I be better off picking up a mtb front derailleur and some better shifters? I like what I read about the Sugino and I could potentially use some of the left over money from selling the Dura Ace for new shifters/derailleur if you think it might be necessary. Otherwise, I could put it towards something else though I already have new wheels, new rear cassette, new seatpost and seat, new pedals, new headset.
I also understand that I probably should have just purchased a newer and better bike to start with but I had access to all of these parts already so 1. It's pretty much free to do these upgrades and 2. It's a great learning experience for me to do all this work myself so down the road when I do get a nicer bike, I'll already know what I'm doing to a certain extent. Thanks again for all of your help, guys.
I also understand that I probably should have just purchased a newer and better bike to start with but I had access to all of these parts already so 1. It's pretty much free to do these upgrades and 2. It's a great learning experience for me to do all this work myself so down the road when I do get a nicer bike, I'll already know what I'm doing to a certain extent. Thanks again for all of your help, guys.
#17
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Unless the shifting is annoying, upgrading the front derailleur doesn't give much in the way of improved performance. I think new wheels, cassette, and possibly rear derailleur are more likely to give you a noticeable improvement. And obviously a new seat will give you a noticeable difference.
#18
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divemedia, Just for shifter compatibility, check that the chainring spacing is the same between the two cranksets before making the swap. If good it may be less expensive for the LBS to perform the swap (or even compare the spacing) as it won't require you buying any tools, unless you already wrench on your bikes or plan to in the future.
Brad
Brad
#20
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Unless the shifting is annoying, upgrading the front derailleur doesn't give much in the way of improved performance. I think new wheels, cassette, and possibly rear derailleur are more likely to give you a noticeable improvement. And obviously a new seat will give you a noticeable difference.
FYI- I already have new wheels (Velocity Synergy rims laced to Ultegra hubs), new rear cassette (Shimano XT 11-32), new seat post (Thompson Elite), new seat (Brooks B-17), new pedals (Dimension), new headset (Chris King threadless) so I think I'm doing pretty good except for the crank but I'm obviously open to any ideas you guys have.
#21
here's the deal: you have the road FD and the road-compat flatbar shifters. You won't have problems with that D/A crankset at all. you could also easily do an xd, but it seems daffy to dump the D/A for an xd.
You could easily put a 50t big ring on the D/A, too, if the 53t is too daunting.
-rob
You could easily put a 50t big ring on the D/A, too, if the 53t is too daunting.
-rob
#22
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the shimano r443 front derailleur has the same indexing as mountain bike fd's, but is made to handle the larger chainrings found on road bike cranks. the sl-440 shifters were designed to work with the r443 fd, but honestly, any set of mountain bike shifters would work. for the rd, the indexing is the same on shimano equipped mountain and road bikes. it's just a matter of having the right length cage rd in order to accommodate the larger or smaller cassettes...
so like surreal said, you have the correct components already, so there should be no issues with the front shifter and fd being able to work with either the dura ace or xd triple cranks...
so like surreal said, you have the correct components already, so there should be no issues with the front shifter and fd being able to work with either the dura ace or xd triple cranks...






