ryanisinallofus

https://maps.google.com/maps/place?ci...num=10&start=0

My review of the place.

fietsbob

Reading here : https://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/cantisetup.html ,

I note the wide profile type 1 lever cantilever gains mechanical leverage as it goes from open to grabbing the rim.

where the low profile, a type 2 lever, gets shorter as the arc moves from open to grabbing the rim.

I have a Set of self energizing Scott Peterson low profile cantilevers , they add another mechanism,
the return spring is a coil in the calliper, and the arm rides on a helix.
once the brake hits the rim, the pad pulls out on the helix, adding the forward motion's kinetic energy
to increase the braking power.

Put those on my loaded touring bike .... works well ,

better that I had it built it with thicker wall 4130
so the braking force doesn't torque the frame tubes like it may
when the weight of the frame is prioritized.

HillRider

Not in this case. Read the Zinn article I referenced. The real cause of this specific problem is flexing of the steerer in the length between the cable anchor mounted on the headset and the brake itself. That causes a repetative change in the effective cable length and causes pulsing of the brakes. Moving the cable anchor to the fork crown eliminates this flexable area. The OP did solve his problem using just that method.

My Surly never had that problem but the steerer is steel and very stiff.

M_S

Fork mounted cable hanger cured it on my volpe when I was using the steel fork it came with (along with proper adjustment of course. Specialized makes a cool one with a barrel adjuster built-in. But I would check the headset first.