is replacing a headset easy?
#1
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is replacing a headset easy?
I thought the headset could be removed as easily as removing the bolt through the head and loosening the crown but it won't budge out. I tried googling solutions but most seem difficult and requiring more tools than wrenches and hammers. Are there any easy solutions?
#2
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it should be noted that i only want to replace my cruiser bars with the drop down bars from another bike. i guess i want to replace the "bike stem?" I still can't find easy instructions for that
also there are no bolts that hold the handlebars in place. the stem itself just encloses over them so it looks nearly impossible to replace without replacing the stem as well. is that usually true for cruisers?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/scarfr/5222585681/ is a picture of my stem

also there are no bolts that hold the handlebars in place. the stem itself just encloses over them so it looks nearly impossible to replace without replacing the stem as well. is that usually true for cruisers?

Last edited by Tony Pham; 12-01-10 at 01:00 AM.
#3
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Based on the rust on your bars I'd say your stem might be seized. That's the part coming out of the headtube and making an angle to the clamp where your bars are held.
There should be a bolt right where the stem begins to angle. Loosen that, see if you can move your stem. If you can, pull it out. As for getting the bars out, you took a picture of the bolt that loosens the clamp. Loosen that, removes bars.
There should be a bolt right where the stem begins to angle. Loosen that, see if you can move your stem. If you can, pull it out. As for getting the bars out, you took a picture of the bolt that loosens the clamp. Loosen that, removes bars.
#4
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: North DFW Metroplex
Looks like you already have the handlebar clamp bolt removed. Just need to work (twist) the handlebars in the clamp to release the rust, then you can slide the bars out to one side and put in the new bars. For the stem, if the bolt is already out, put it back in about 3-4 full turns. Should have some bolt still not bottomed out, and then you can tap on that bolt to release the stem clamp.
Penetrating oil might also help both areas. Apply generously down the stem bolt hole (put a rag underneath to catch the overflow). Around the handlebar clamp will help, but you can probably just twist them.
After using the penetrating oil down the stem....you'll need to completely clean out those areas/parts, and then regrease.
HTH.
Penetrating oil might also help both areas. Apply generously down the stem bolt hole (put a rag underneath to catch the overflow). Around the handlebar clamp will help, but you can probably just twist them.
After using the penetrating oil down the stem....you'll need to completely clean out those areas/parts, and then regrease.
HTH.
#5
Before proceeding with anything, you can retighten the headset locknut.
For your enjoyment:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...osts-and-stems
https://yarchive.net/bike/frozen_stem_remove.html
PB Blaster is inexpensive and readily available. In some cases, even penetrating oil and force won't budge a seized stem.
For your enjoyment:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...osts-and-stems
https://yarchive.net/bike/frozen_stem_remove.html
PB Blaster is inexpensive and readily available. In some cases, even penetrating oil and force won't budge a seized stem.
#6
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline
To help with avoiding confusion for next time you have gotten your terms mixed up. The headset is the bearings and collars related to the bearings that allow you to turn the bars and fork for steering. The stem is the bit that goes into the fork's steer tube and locks in place and that you mount the handlebars into. It is the handlebars that you are trying to remove. And they only seem to be a single solid unit because of the amount of rust you have on them. They've corroded themselves together.
I'd suggest some penetrating oil and a pipe wrench. Because of the way the stem is made twisting the bars back from the top will aid in breaking the joint loose easier than trying to twist them forward and down.
I would also suggest that since you're trying to rebuild ratty old bikes that while you're at all this you should go ahead and remove the stem and the top couple of nuts on the headset and then take the forks out. This will allow you to clean, inspect and if, by some miracle given the condition of the rest of the bike, the bearings and races are still in good condition you can re-grease them and put it all back together.
How to do this and the tools to use you can see at www.parktool.com/repair . A web page that you should really get to know well. Hover the mouse over the part you want to work on and click when the right name shows up. In this case you want to select "Headset Service" and then Threaded Headset Service. But while you're there look at Headset Standards as well.
I'd suggest some penetrating oil and a pipe wrench. Because of the way the stem is made twisting the bars back from the top will aid in breaking the joint loose easier than trying to twist them forward and down.
I would also suggest that since you're trying to rebuild ratty old bikes that while you're at all this you should go ahead and remove the stem and the top couple of nuts on the headset and then take the forks out. This will allow you to clean, inspect and if, by some miracle given the condition of the rest of the bike, the bearings and races are still in good condition you can re-grease them and put it all back together.
How to do this and the tools to use you can see at www.parktool.com/repair . A web page that you should really get to know well. Hover the mouse over the part you want to work on and click when the right name shows up. In this case you want to select "Headset Service" and then Threaded Headset Service. But while you're there look at Headset Standards as well.
Last edited by BCRider; 12-01-10 at 11:29 AM.
#7
Bikaholic
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Western, Michigan
Bikes: Trek Fuel 90, Giant OCR, Rans Screamer Tandem
+1 on Park tools and also this site https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
It will help us to help you if you have learned a bit of terminology before asking for help. many back and forth posts have been necessary in order to determine the exact nature of your problems. These sites are immensely helpful and may even answer questions for you.
It will help us to help you if you have learned a bit of terminology before asking for help. many back and forth posts have been necessary in order to determine the exact nature of your problems. These sites are immensely helpful and may even answer questions for you.
#8
The last time I successfully removed a seized stem, this was my procedure:
1. Attempted the standard technique of loosening the fixing bolt and tapping it with a hammer
2. Put the handlebars back in the stem and an old junk wheel in the fork and twisted with as much force as I could muster
3. Removed the fixing bolt and sprayed a ton of PB Blaster down the hole
4. Sprayed a ton of PB Blaster around the headset
5. Let it soak for a day and tried brute force again
6. Soaked everything with ammonia overnight and tried brute force
7. Heated the whole thing with a hair dryer and tried brute force
8. Cooled the whole thing with compressed air and tried brute force
9. Beat the stem severely with a 3-pound hammer
10. Gave up and assembled the bike with the stem in place
11. Rode the bike for about 500 miles
12. One day noticed that my handlebars had become misaligned
13. Loosened the fixing bolt and gave it a light tap
14. Pulled the stem out with ease
YMMV
1. Attempted the standard technique of loosening the fixing bolt and tapping it with a hammer
2. Put the handlebars back in the stem and an old junk wheel in the fork and twisted with as much force as I could muster
3. Removed the fixing bolt and sprayed a ton of PB Blaster down the hole
4. Sprayed a ton of PB Blaster around the headset
5. Let it soak for a day and tried brute force again
6. Soaked everything with ammonia overnight and tried brute force
7. Heated the whole thing with a hair dryer and tried brute force
8. Cooled the whole thing with compressed air and tried brute force
9. Beat the stem severely with a 3-pound hammer
10. Gave up and assembled the bike with the stem in place
11. Rode the bike for about 500 miles
12. One day noticed that my handlebars had become misaligned
13. Loosened the fixing bolt and gave it a light tap
14. Pulled the stem out with ease
YMMV
#9
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Awesome. I'll try these procedures once I get home. Once I remove the rust though I'm not sure how I'll slide the handlebars out. The ends of them have grips which seem unlikely to slide off. They're the plastic type with finger indentions and they seem solidly glued to the handle bar. Is there any way around that? Because otherwise I doubt I'll be able to slide them through the tiny stem hole.
#10
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Salinas , Ca.
Bikes: Bike Nashbar AL-1 ,Raligh M50 , Schwinn Traveler , and others
Take a flat head screwdriver slide it into the grip(s) take WD-40 or like or rubbing alcohol spray into grip and they will slide off and can be reuse if you want.
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