Suprisingly, in the back of the local big box toy store I'm working at for the holidays, they have a ts-2 truing stand. There's just one problem, the calipers aren't centered. On closer inspection, the knob that makes the fork ends wider or narrower, the fork near the knob doesn't move, only the left one does, which means any axle not obscenely wide will be off center.

Any ideas how to fix it?

I have a Dishing gage, then the centering of the truing stand really doesnt matter.
between flipping your wheel in the stand and the dish check
with the separate simple Gage.
it all works out fine.

If you want to mess with it , it's the setscrews on the shaft between the arms,
that you mess around with..

Just need a straight wheel to reference.

Check out Parktools.com ,on their website is a way to get the ST-2 adjusted, just click on tools,and a picture of the TS-2 will show up.

Personally, I run my truing stands off-center on purpose, being a left-feeler guy. But yeah, consult ParkTool.com for directions.

The TS-2 has 2 collars on the main horizontal shaft that sit one each side between the two uprights. This traps the shaft in one place so as you turn it the left and right threads on either side move the wheel holding arms in or out together. If only one arm is moving odds are one or both collar are loose.

To center, place a wheel you know to be true and centered in the stand, and clamp it in gently. Loosen both collars and tap the knob either way until the wheel centers in the caliper. Push the collars against the upright and tighten the set screws.

If you get the stand fairly close to perfectly centered, say within 1/8" leave the collars alone, and fine tune the precise centering by using the large nuts on either side of the swing arm assembly to walk the arm in either direction.

Here are the TS-2 Instructions:

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...ts-2-centering

Centering depends on **** not being worn out. Rebuild kits are available. Big box stores actually true stores with wheels off the bike? Really?

Sorry O, not true, ANY stand can be re-centered regardless of age and general condition, provided the set screws on the collars are still OK.

Sometimes it's difficult if the main shafe is scored from prior adjustments. But that's easy to work around, by rotating the collar to find a clean section of the shaft. BTW- if anyone decides to disassemble and rebuild the stand, replace the OEM set screw collars with split shaft collars. These are inexpensive, and do a great job holding the shaft without marring it.

Sorry, disagree.

You can center it, but it won't stay centered.

Also I like boobs.

We don't have to debate this. The OP can try my way first without spending anything more than 15 minutes of his time. After 3 weeks or 3 years when it's out of adjustment, he can try again, or buy a repair kit at his option.

Same here...bias to the right. Myself and just about everyone else I know who has the truing stand doesn't bother with it. Flipping and dishing tool are what we pretty much go with.

=8-)

I use an older Park TS-2 stand, with the 29er extensions and I have a Park WAG-4 Dish Tool. Ideally I would love to just use the truing stand to check for dish / centering, however it is pretty quick to just use the dish tool and I trust it more than the truing stand. One (obvious) thing is that each time I do a dish alignment and take the wheel off the truing stand I re-adjust the dish tool locator on the end of the axle since the rim - hub relationship changes. In other words if the dish tool touched the rim and not the end of the axle on say the drive side, then I tighten the spokes on non-drive side 1/4 turn and loosen the spokes on the drive side 1/4 turn, then the next time I check with the dish tool I loosen up the depth gauge so it touches the end of the axle on one side of the wheel, then check the other side. This is obvious, although was not to me the first few times and I kept wondering why my dish adjustments of spokes were not doing anything. I have the Park tool for centering the TS-2 truing stand and even with this, or with a known properly dished wheel, I still check with the dish tool. I saw above how the dish tool WAG-4 can be used without taking the wheel out of the truing stand. Not sure how to do that?

I have followed these directions and can't seem to keep it centered for both 110mm front wheels and larger rear wheels. Am I messing up, or doesn't the TS2.2 stay centered for various width wheels?

Some have trouble with this . If you set up the stand for 110 then it be off for others . Maybe this will help ? Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » TS-2.2-and-TS-2-Centering

The stand should stay centered, since the arms are supposed to open symmetrically. The main reason these don't stay centered is that the collars aren't fully against the stanchions. This allows the main shaft to drift side to side. Test for this bu gently clamping a wheel (any wheel) seeing where it is in the caliper, and tap the shaft side to side. If the wheel moves it's because there's play between the collars and stanchions.

The other reason the TS-2 isn't reliable for dish, and cannot ever be is inherent in it's design. It holds axles in a V-cradle, so any variation in axle diameter or a slight bend can throw the wheel position off. You can demonstrate this by putting in a wheel and clamping only enough to locate, but not hold the wheel. While it's there, ise a cone wrench to rotate the axle and note if the rim moves at the caliper. Also slight variations in the V clamp might affect the centering of various axle diameters.

The stand is fine for rough dish work, and for truing with a reference for dish, but new wheels should be checked with a dishing gauge which isn't dependent on the axle.

I was having trouble centering mine. Bought it used/maladjusted.
If I set it for fronts, it'd be off for the rear etc.
Followed the instructions and it stays centered on various OLD's.
I always flip the wheel to check, but so far, so good.

I bought the kit. It worked great. Very easy to instal and set up.

I keep mine centered for rear wheels. At about 130 mm the uprights are near vertical and nearly perpendicular to the wheel axle, so flat to the face of the lock nuts. My TS-2 stays very close to centered for rear wheels.
For 100 or 110 mm (front wheels) there is too much angle between the uprights and axle locknut faces. Variations in the size and shape of the locknuts is the only reason my TS-2 will not stay centered for front wheels. It is not because the uprights change, it's because the shapes, sizes, and position of the locknuts change (per FB's second paragraph, post #14 ).

I never use a dishing tool. I can center a rim quickly and accurately by reversing the wheel as many times as necessary on the stand.