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Removing Crank

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Old 10-19-04 | 11:42 AM
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Removing Crank

How much pressure should I be using to remove my crank with the little crank puller (around 7"). Should I put a pipe at the end until it pops? I guess what I'm asking is, how much pressure is too much?

-Pete
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Old 10-19-04 | 11:55 AM
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What you are doing is you are pulling two pieces out of a press fit. The threads on the crank are where the reaction force is.

Too much torque would be when you strip these threads. I think that would be very hard to do if the extractor tool was properly screwed in far enough.

It should be a fair amount of torque, but the crank will be free immediately once the right torque is reached.
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Old 10-19-04 | 11:58 AM
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When putting them back on, can I just hammer them back on (lightly)?
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Old 10-19-04 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by psurrena
When putting them back on, can I just hammer them back on (lightly)?
Proper torque with the bolt.
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Old 10-19-04 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by psurrena
How much pressure should I be using to remove my crank with the little crank puller (around 7"). Should I put a pipe at the end until it pops? I guess what I'm asking is, how much pressure is too much?

-Pete
Depending on the type,be sure you did not leave a washer in the crank arm hole.
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Old 10-19-04 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by H23

Too much torque would be when you strip these threads. I think that would be very hard to do if the extractor tool was properly screwed in far enough.
Never under estimate the power of a moron or a long handled wrench.It can be done if a washer was left in the crankarm hole and a moron has a big enough wrench, or cheater.
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Old 10-19-04 | 12:16 PM
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What is a good sign that something is wrong and I should just break it?
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Old 10-19-04 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by psurrena
What is a good sign that something is wrong and I should just break it?
You should not have to break it (nor can you).
Nor should you need a pipe extension if you are man (just kidding). Maybe some WD-40?

Make sure there is no washer, like syndey said.
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Old 10-19-04 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by psurrena
When putting them back on, can I just hammer them back on (lightly)?

NO!
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Old 10-19-04 | 12:31 PM
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Extractor tools or crank removers like the Park Tool CWP-6 are made of heat treated steel and can easily damage the crank thread if improperly engaged or forced-in with a wrench. These are common mistakes made when removing a crank arm:
  • leaving the bolt washer in, resulting in the extractor to push against it instead of the axle.
  • engaging and screwing the extractor with a wrench. Always do this by hand after cleaning the crank thread thoroughly, and make sure the the tool is fully engaged before begining the extracting process with a wrench. Applying a thin coat of grease on the thread usually helps.
Securing the crank arm back on the axle is easier, a good hand torque with a wrench like "Park Tool CCW-14R" will secure it. Never use an extension.
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Old 10-19-04 | 03:18 PM
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Read the information at this link:bottom bracket

Doc
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Old 10-19-04 | 03:57 PM
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Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.

First, make sure that you have the right tool for your crank. The tools for square tapered cranks and for splined cranks are different.

A good rule of thumb to use regarding cheater bars is: If in doubt, don't.
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