I've done a lot of searching for videos about how the "ideal" gear change would look like and most if not all of them only display the rear spokes. What i'm interested in is the two big spokes up front, so if anyone has a link to what an smooth front spoke (not sure of proper term) looks like post here .

Reason I wish to know is because i've been doing a lot of fine tuning and I don't have a reference to what looks ideal. :l At the moment when I go from the smallest cog to the larger cog (mine only has 2 big cranks), The chain will start to be grabbed by the larger one while dragging along the side of the crank, then after grabbing it for a while it'll pop on.

Type of bike is a jamis Ventura comp

any other questions feel free to ask. Thanks

I assume that when you say "two big spokes up front" you are really talking about the chain rings on the crank, and by "rear spokes" you are talking about the cassette (the rear cogs)?

In any case, the shift from small chain-ring to large chain-ring is inherently the least-smooth shift, due to the fact that the difference in size and tooth-count between the two chain-rings is so large. This is especially true for a compact double crank (typically with 34-tooth and 50-tooth chain rings. That said, the shift to the larger chain-ring should still take place fairly quickly. Part of the issue is that the front shift lever for some lower-priced groups lacks a trim capability, so the derailleur ends up being more or less directly over the new chain-ring. Whereas if the front shifter has trim capability, it can be set up so that the front derailleur can actually move a little past the ideal position with the shift (leading to a faster/smoother shift), and then be trimmed back a bit.

What you've assumed is correct, but I can't picture what you've stated. I haven't actually got on my bike since i've done the fine tuning and at the moment I'm just doing gear switches with the bike upside down.

If there is any video footage please show. >.<

Keep in mind that front shifts should not be done while pedaling with any force - only movement. When you shift the rear, the dérailleur is moving the slack part of the chain. When you shift the front, it's moving the part which would be under tension if you're pedaling. On modern gearsets, the front shift is also helped by pins and ramps on the side of the gear, which helps the chain ride up the gear and get onto the teeth. It can take some part of a revolution for the chain to grab on to one of these pins, which can also make front changes slower.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#pins

Thanks guys

I've done some further research and if it's the case when a chain rubs against the sprocket wall that's bad correct? Currently my chain rubs the largest sprocket wall for a short time before being pulled.

Should I loosen tension which is turning clockwise i'm assuming? Or lessen tension which is turning counter clock.

Correct me in case i'm incorrect above, thanks.

That's not unusual for a shift to the larger front cog - it can rub until it gets picked up by one of the pins I mentioned.

If that's the case.....then I guess i just have to test ride my bike.
Thanks a lot.

You should not make adjustments with the bike inverted. Find a way to hang the bike in normal riding position.
Follow the instructions for front derailleur adjustments found at www.parktool.com. Do each step in proper sequence leaving nothing out.