I'm about to build my first wheel (rear wheel on nashbar touring frame), with a shimano tiagra 36 hole hub (slightly used). The only problem I see is the flanges have some grooves worn in from the previously installed spokes (only 18/36 holes were laced). Should I expect a problem with this? I plan on using DB 2.0/1.7 spokes. I wanted to keep the bike low budget because it's my first build, but was thinking of just tossing the hub and buying a new one, since the spokes are going to be the the most expensive part of the wheel. The rim is Sun CR18. I'd like to re-use the hub but don't want to build a rear wheel which might blow up on me. Thank you.

Not gonna blow up on you...go ahead and use the hub if you want.

=8-)

It will be fine... most of my personal hubs have been reclaimed / recycled and I have never had an issue with them.

Once a wheel has been laced it should be re-laced into the same pattern so that the spokes sit nicely against the flange and don't cross previous markings as this can create stress risers.

As log as the bearing cups are good you are OK.

Well, that's the problem. It was previously laced using only 18 spokes. I wouldn't want to mimic that.

If it was my hub I'd reuse it but I'd use my Dremel to smooth down the raised ridges that were formed by the previous spoke pattern.

I usually do this but some hubs were built with incorrect loading and 1/2 of the spoke holes have their spoke orientation changed. I've never had a hub fail yet, have you?

+1

Re-lacing in the old grooves is best practice, but not doing so doesn't make all that much difference. Go ahead and re-lace doing your best to follow the old pattern where you can, especially on the right flange where tension is higher.

Yes, it might be weaker and crack, (the operative word here is might), but than again it probably won't. It's a wheel and the odds favor it dying from an unfortunate meeting with a rain filled pothole before the hub cracks. You could end up building your 4th or 5th rim onto it before the hub finally quits on you.

If you can it would be nice if the new lacing can use as many spokes sitting in the same orientation as the old marks as possible. Also are you sure that only half of them were used? Remember that half the spokes are head in and half head out. So the marks on the outer faces of the flanges will only be on half the holes because those were the half that are head in. The head in spokes make by far the more noticable markings as the spokes have to bend slightly around the flange. The head out spokes create pressure marks as well on the edges of the holes on the inside face but are not as noticable unless you look closely. A clue to this would be if the marks on the outside of the flange are all angled in the same direction. If all 18 holes per side were used then the 9 with pressure marks showing on the outside will be angled all the same way. If it was used for a 18 spoke build then that would imply that it was either a radial build or that it used an oddball triplet spoke pattern since only using 9 holes per side means that the wheel wasn't built using a normal crossing pattern.

In any event, you asked about using a Dremel to remove the pressure marks. DO NOT REMOVE ANY METAL ! ! ! ! ! The amount you'd have to take off would be significant and would cause a worse risk of failure than just leaving the existing marks alone if you can't re-use them.

+1, don't try to improve your situation by filing or dremelling. It's an internal structural issue and changing the surface can only make things worse. Go ahead and build the wheel, doing you're best to stay to the old pattern where you can. Otherwise leave bad enough alone.

Especially true with low flange hubs that are by design, stronger than high flange hubs... I am really careful using these and don't see an issue in buffing up the flange if there are sharp or raised edges but would never use a dremel even though I have pretty good skills with these. The potential for disaster is pretty high.

We build our own hubs here (from billet stock) and after machining they get buffed and polished in the same manner to remove any small marks.

Hubs also differ in how they are made and most are made from castings that are then machined while others are turned from billet stock which makes for a stronger hub due to more consistent material qualities.

I exercise great care if I am using vintage high flange hubs as I rarely know what they have seen in their lifetimes and these are most prone to failure... they should be closely inspected before re-using them to make sure they have no cracks or any really deep gouges.

Saddest thing you will ever see is a vintage Campy or Zeus high flange hub that has cracked flanges.

are you sure that only half of them were used? Remember that half the spokes are head in and half head out. So the marks on the outer faces of the flanges will only be on half the holes because those were the half that are head in. The head in spokes make by far the more noticable markings as the spokes have to bend slightly around the flange.

You are correct, and my nebwie-ness has been fully revealed . There are indeed marks on the inside of the flange, and they are noticeably smaller than the gouging on the outside of the flange. I will try to imitate the old lacing pattern, thanks again.

lol, I was just going to say the same thing, all the holes were probably used, you will only see half of the marks.

How do you like the nashbar touring frame? just built one up a couple weeks ago, ironically the last thing I need to do is get a proper durable rear wheel built, hope to do that in the next week or two. mine is being used primarily as a commuter. built it with the nashbar Cyclocross fork so I could run disc brake up front and nashbar microshift 9speed flatbar shifters, microshift RD and Shimano R443 flat bar FD. shifts like a dream, rides sweet on 700x37c tires and there is still plenty of room to go even bigger with the tires if I want to.