Cassete disassembling
#1
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Cassete disassembling
Hello
I'm trying to disassemble my cassete but i don't know how to do it i
Here it is

I tried to disassemble it and got this:

This:

And:

So i cleaned everything up and after much head scrathing and trying i got it together and working again

But i wanted to get the cogs out so i could clean them can anyone help me? :S
I'm trying to disassemble my cassete but i don't know how to do it i
Here it is
I tried to disassemble it and got this:
This:
And:
So i cleaned everything up and after much head scrathing and trying i got it together and working again
But i wanted to get the cogs out so i could clean them can anyone help me? :S
#2
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From: California
Bikes: Trek 7.2 FX, Custom Vintage FG
Sweet potatoes...
I could be completely wrong here (probably not though, cassettes don't have bearings...), but that looks more like a freewheel to me. In which case, they don't come off.
I could be completely wrong here (probably not though, cassettes don't have bearings...), but that looks more like a freewheel to me. In which case, they don't come off.
#3
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After much head scratching and insanity it's working again but still i couldn't disassemble what i wanted :S
#4
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Yep, that's a freewheel. Congrats on accidentally doing something many fear to do deliberately. A two-pronged freewheel puller would have let you remove it from the hub intact. Two chainwhips would probably let you pull the sprockets off. Outer sprocket(s) unscrew counter clockwise, inner sit on splines.
#7
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From: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
You don't need to take apart a freewheel or a cassette to clean it. Fold a rag over and "floss" between the cogs. Add some mineral spirits or kerosene to the rag if needed.
#8
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
OK so you've dis-assembled the freewheel, which I assume at this point you don't wish to rebuild. If that's the case, it's easy to get the body of the hub.
If you have a big Stilson (pipe) wrench, fit it over the body wherever you can get a purchase and spin it off to the left. I saod spin it off, but be aware it takes serious torque so you want a wrench that reaches all the way out to the rim and expect to put elbow grease to it.
Alternatively, see if you can get a bite on it with a vise, probably best to hold on the two recesses that the pawls pocket into. Tighten the vise firm, but don't go crazy because ovalizing the body will make it harder to turn off. Now grab the wheels at 9 and 3 and Channel the spirit of Ralph Cramden, and pretent you're making a left turn on a big bus without benefit of power steering.
Whether you use the pipe wrench or vise, don't be surprised if your wheel protests a bit with some spoke pinging, thise guys are in tight.
BTW- if you want to save and rebuild the freewheel, you need a freewheel tool - SunTour 2-prong version, regardless of brand. Fit it to the 2 notches, secure it with your QR skewer, and turn it off. The minute it moves, loosen the skewer to allow the body to move out on the threads.
If you have a big Stilson (pipe) wrench, fit it over the body wherever you can get a purchase and spin it off to the left. I saod spin it off, but be aware it takes serious torque so you want a wrench that reaches all the way out to the rim and expect to put elbow grease to it.
Alternatively, see if you can get a bite on it with a vise, probably best to hold on the two recesses that the pawls pocket into. Tighten the vise firm, but don't go crazy because ovalizing the body will make it harder to turn off. Now grab the wheels at 9 and 3 and Channel the spirit of Ralph Cramden, and pretent you're making a left turn on a big bus without benefit of power steering.
Whether you use the pipe wrench or vise, don't be surprised if your wheel protests a bit with some spoke pinging, thise guys are in tight.
BTW- if you want to save and rebuild the freewheel, you need a freewheel tool - SunTour 2-prong version, regardless of brand. Fit it to the 2 notches, secure it with your QR skewer, and turn it off. The minute it moves, loosen the skewer to allow the body to move out on the threads.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#9
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Thanks Al1943 will try it, even if i'm itching to disassemble it!
FBinNY i alreaddy reassembled everything (cleaned and whatnot) because i didin't know i could take it off of it, but thank you very much that's good to know in case i ever need to take it off!!
FBinNY i alreaddy reassembled everything (cleaned and whatnot) because i didin't know i could take it off of it, but thank you very much that's good to know in case i ever need to take it off!!
#10
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From: California
Bikes: Trek 7.2 FX, Custom Vintage FG
I'm impressed! I've never had the guts to take one apart, and probably wouldn't be able to ever get it back together again.
#11
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From: The other Maine, north of RT 2
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
#12
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