How are the bikes from the mechanic's side?
#1
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How are the bikes from the mechanic's side?
Dear Experts,
I think to buy a new bike for longer road distances and not so interested in the higher speed but also not want go by sloow speed. At the moment find two bikes I like to try.
Can I put here the link? One is 10kg the other is about 12kg, But I ask about the brakes only: One has; TEKTRO RX 5 and the other disk brakes of SHIMANO BR-M445 180/160mm Rotor. I do not know them at all but how is the disc brake maintenece? Is it possible to learn it and make it at home little service? If the more weight of it make it worthy? Is It can be block easily?
Thanks a lot for the opinions.
losi
I think to buy a new bike for longer road distances and not so interested in the higher speed but also not want go by sloow speed. At the moment find two bikes I like to try.
Can I put here the link? One is 10kg the other is about 12kg, But I ask about the brakes only: One has; TEKTRO RX 5 and the other disk brakes of SHIMANO BR-M445 180/160mm Rotor. I do not know them at all but how is the disc brake maintenece? Is it possible to learn it and make it at home little service? If the more weight of it make it worthy? Is It can be block easily?
Thanks a lot for the opinions.
losi
Last edited by losi; 06-02-11 at 04:41 AM.
#3
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
in very simple terms, Lighter = faster / easier to ride as less effort, but there are also many other variables.
Home servicing can be done if you have basic mechnical knowlage, are willing to learn.
not sure what you mean by 'Is It can be block easily'
Home servicing can be done if you have basic mechnical knowlage, are willing to learn.
not sure what you mean by 'Is It can be block easily'
#4
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
losi, Hydraulic disk brakes are more complicated than standard rim brakes, but disk brakes are a little better in wet weather and muddy conditions. They are serviced similar to a car's or motorcycle's hydraulic systems, for reference.
Brad
Brad
#5
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Thanks until now and also after it.
I am not mechanical but I make my own bike service and was not sure if can make the disk brake service also with home tools.
the question about block is if the wheels can cutched like at v-brakes (and if happening in the first wheel it can be not so nice)
that the brakes totally stopp easily the wheels. Yor opinions help to decide which to buy.
losi
I am not mechanical but I make my own bike service and was not sure if can make the disk brake service also with home tools.
the question about block is if the wheels can cutched like at v-brakes (and if happening in the first wheel it can be not so nice)
that the brakes totally stopp easily the wheels. Yor opinions help to decide which to buy.
losi
#7
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Avid 7 cable operated disc is a good choice, long tour,
packing a backup caliper is easy..
but thats 3rd party in the OP's 2 choices.
Disc: you manually adjust cable brakes for pad wear, hydraulics self adjust.
The mech in a hydraulic is behind a seal,
bring a keeper, insert whenever transporting, with wheel out
packing a backup caliper is easy..
but thats 3rd party in the OP's 2 choices.
Disc: you manually adjust cable brakes for pad wear, hydraulics self adjust.
The mech in a hydraulic is behind a seal,
bring a keeper, insert whenever transporting, with wheel out
Last edited by fietsbob; 06-02-11 at 08:33 AM.
#8
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Further North than U
Bikes: Spec Roubaix, three Fisher Montare, two Pugs
Many hydraulics only can be adjusted on one side. If the other side gets dirty you have to clean it very carefully or it sticks. I tossed my hydraulic brake set and put in Avid 7 which can be adjusted much more easily. Hydraulics are great if you get very expensive brakes or if you don't care if they squeal but I second fietsbob's recommendation for Avid 7. Sorry that doesn't answer you directly.
#9
Dear Experts,
I think to buy a new bike for longer road distances and not so interested in the higher speed but also not want go by sloow speed. At the moment find two bikes I like to try.
Can I put here the link? One is 10kg the other is about 12kg, But I ask about the brakes only: One has; TEKTRO RX 5 and the other disk brakes of SHIMANO BR-M445 180/160mm Rotor. I do not know them at all but how is the disc brake maintenece? Is it possible to learn it and make it at home little service? If the more weight of it make it worthy? Is It can be block easily?
Thanks a lot for the opinions.
losi
I think to buy a new bike for longer road distances and not so interested in the higher speed but also not want go by sloow speed. At the moment find two bikes I like to try.
Can I put here the link? One is 10kg the other is about 12kg, But I ask about the brakes only: One has; TEKTRO RX 5 and the other disk brakes of SHIMANO BR-M445 180/160mm Rotor. I do not know them at all but how is the disc brake maintenece? Is it possible to learn it and make it at home little service? If the more weight of it make it worthy? Is It can be block easily?
Thanks a lot for the opinions.
losi
V-brakes aren`t expensive and if you had to change the whole system you could swap for another model entirely for less than $40. Some are less than $20.
The disk brakes you mentioned are Shimano`s least expensive hydraulic disk brakes. They use mineral oil as a hydraulic fluid and the stock disks are intended for resin pads only so braking performance in wet conditions won`t be much different from V-brakes with KoolStop pads.
Disk brakes are heavier than rim brakes, parts are much more expensive, and the pads are more difficult to inspect for wear. Normally the wheel needs to be removed and the pads extracted for examination. The system is also more suceptable to contamination by oil which will ruin the brake pads.The piston area , however, is seceptable to corrosion and seizing if unlubricated so maintenaince is more complicated. It can be done at home but a shop manual is recommended.
The hydraulic system is sealed and should be maintenance free for several years, but the disks themselves need to be kept clean and alcohol is the recommended solvent. Pads can be sanded to remove surface glace but oil contamination (or leaking hydraulic fluid) will require pad replacement. Pads are $20 to $30 a set - about double the cost of V-brake pads and they won`t last much longer.
If your plan is to drive in the city I`d suggest you stick with the V-brakes but its your decision.
#10
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I like to thanks for all whom wrote his/her opinion. It helped a Lot. Will save me all and take in account.
I like to use this bike for longer road trips on road that also going upwards. I will try go only when the weather condition not rainy or snow.
My conclusion is: I will chose the v-brake, lighter bike. (9.8kg). I will look that has place for fenders but also not need if the weather and road conditions are
not bed. But in any case will upgrade the pads and sometimes can have occasion to buy a better type of v-brakes also if I will see that I can not so trust.
losi
I like to use this bike for longer road trips on road that also going upwards. I will try go only when the weather condition not rainy or snow.
My conclusion is: I will chose the v-brake, lighter bike. (9.8kg). I will look that has place for fenders but also not need if the weather and road conditions are
not bed. But in any case will upgrade the pads and sometimes can have occasion to buy a better type of v-brakes also if I will see that I can not so trust.
losi
#11
Good choice. If you don't plan to ride in very wet, muddy, snowy, icy (etc) conditions then rim brakes are your best bet. Especially if you're new to bikes and looking to work on them yourself.
#12
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I am not so new in bikes and I like to make all the service. But I had a very bad surprise when I went with rim (V-brakes) brakes in a cold about 0-+2C° wether and touched a little bit the breaks first time on the day. That was my fault. I not want to repeat it but will continue with the same type of breaks. The brake pads was parallel what I knew I had set other way. IMPORTANT set the end part 1mm more far from the rim like the forward part of the pad.
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