I've got a Trek 820 that I'm planning on overhauling, and while I knew it definitely needed some work, I didn't notice this when I got it:

First, there doesn't appear to be any bearings on the drive side, and second, that cup is threaded in wrong, and there appears to be some rust in there. Obviously, I plan on replacing all that, but first I have to see if I can even get it out. Looking at Sheldon's site I decided to try and use a bench vise, but couldn't get it to budge, though I may have to try again after moving a few things around so there is less in my way. What are my chances of actually getting it out though, and if I do, am I going to need to re-thread the BB shell?

I would try a large cresent wrench, maybe a 12 inch. Also your idea of using the bench vice is a good one. Just dont get frustrated and go at it too hard. take your time. Also I would soak in in WD for a while. When you get it out you should chase the threads with the right sized tap to keep a new cup going in straight.

I would put the oil to it for a couple days and then use a pipe wrench. It
will need to be a good one with sharp teeth on the edges. Maybe a rubber
hammer to go with the pipe wrench.

The other side OK?, Get the crank out and may be a large both and
nut tighten through the hole? Maybe a little heat?

It looks do able to me. Re-thread maybe.

Yuck. That's the drive side? If so, then remove the other cup and take out the axle and try Sheldon's bolt method. But maybe somebody put a non-drive side cup into the drive side, so it may unscrew to the right rather than the left-hand threads that you would expect in the drive side. That could explain the catty-wumpus cup mounting. If you can't get it to budge using a 2-foot cheater bar then take it to a tire shop and see if they'll use their impact wrench on it.

It would probably be a good idea to chase and grease the threads after all that. Good luck!

It should come out, but the cup is cross threaded in the BB.

I noticed the ding on the left top of the cup. That almost seems like these guys might have tried to loosen the cup thinking it was standard right hand threaded. Usually, those are left hand threaded. And when they finally figured how to take it off, they forgot the threading and couldn't thread the cup in straight. Good luck with that. You might try soaking with Coke overnight before trying to brute force it.

Oh and the proper cup wrench would be a good try to. The one with the double flat that fits.

Fixed cup wrench, + a Stein tool hold down tool is what Id use..
.. they're in my tool box.. , maybe a cheater bar on the end..

that looks cross-threaded, frame may be Ugly in there..

Looks like someone tried a hammer and punch on it.
That is pretty darn cross threaded and the threads will at least need chasing when you get that out.
A big pipe wrench with cheater bar and a couple sturdy friends to help hold the frame ought to get it out. Soak it overnight in ATF first though.

Hmm.... I'm thinking this thing is not going to budge... I soaked it in WD40. I tried Sheldon's bolt method, and all I did was round the corners on the nut. 15" Crescent wrench has mostly rounded the corners of the cup. I tried the vice again, and I think it's too mangled now to have a chance at getting a good grip on it.

Ah well... I do have a Barracuda A2E frame that aside from having shorter chainstays, should also work for what I want. Thanks for the ideas on trying fix this.

I would put it in a vise, and be sure to turn the proper direction. I would take a file to the flats, and clean the up first.

Filing might make it work, thanks for the idea! I've already packed everything up, so I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

Last resort would be to weld a steel bar too it that you could slip a long pipe over. If you do be sure to stuff and wrap the BB with wet rags before you weld on it so they stay cool.

If all else fails---------this will work. Get a Dremel tool and chuck in one of the thin cutting wheels. Simply cut thru the cup. It wont matter if you grove the BB when doing this. A small cut in the BB thread will make no difference. Then as I say before you put in a new bearing cup, chase the threads with the proper tap. You may have to take it to your LBS to get this done.

BTW one cut thru the cup on one side should be enough to be able to loosen the cup enough to get it out with channel locks squeezing down the size of the cup. If not cut another thin channel 180 degrees opposite the first, then the cup should fall out.

Using Sheldon's method, if you round the corners on the nut, you need to get a harder nut (and bolt). The bolt or the socket or the square drive should break before the nut's corners round off. But welding the steel bar to it is a great idea too- the heat will tend to loosen things up as well.

It's so sad to see a bike that hasn't been properly cared for and abused. Is a Trek 820 really worth all your effort? Maybe it's just a hobby, spare time project. Good luck. I would have given up without even trying.

I would not give up on it. The challenge of getting that thing off there would get my full attention. I would likely try non destructive methods first then progress from there. In the end I would get that thing off there even if I destroyed the frame in process.

Actually, at least two very good methods of getting a good grip on the cup have already been described. Welding a bar to it or using a large bolt and nut should work for that part. The trick might be holding the frame in such a manner that it would not be damaged by the excessive torque required to remove the cross threaded part. I would save the "Victor Wrench" for last. I guarantee I could get the cup out of there one way or another, but the chances of damaging the frame would be huge. Of course the frame is very close to useless in it's present condition, so if it is damaged beyond use in the process of removing the cross threaded part, not much has changed. If not, the frame may be saved.

Trek 820 is a solid decent bicycle. Nothing fancy, but certainly worth a few hours of effort to give it new life, if you've got a frew hours to spare.

A Trek 820 was an okay bike but nothing to write home about. The issue isn't the quality of the frame new. It's the salvagability of the frame of the frame now. The fixed cup is severely cross threaded and rusted in place. Given the gap between the frame and the fixed cup, as well as the angle of the cup, you may not be able to chase the threads in the bottom bracket. There just may not be any threads to chase if (and when) the cup is removed.

Best to cut your losses and find another project bike. Chalk this one up to experience and look more closely at the frames in the future.

You have the advantage in that I am not able to view the photos. However, I have never seen a BB so cross threaded that it could not be salvaged. And since the OP will wind up buying a new BB for it anyway,m the worst possible outcome, if/when the old BB finally comes out and a LBS cleans up the threads, is that he may have to use a 'damaged thread' bottom bracket. But with a sturdy steel frame like the 820 even that is unlikely.

As long as you can get that bottom bracket out by any means neccesary, you can always salvage the frame with a threadless bottom bracket

I'd pull the other cup,remove axle and junk,radiac wheel the messed up cup in half,remove.If there's enough metal left to chase,go that route,if not,use that bottom bracket above.

I've never seen/used that BB above but it's a great idea.Whoever thought of using crush sleeves to retain the BB is a smart fellow.

I like that better than my UN-54.I wonder if it comes in 127.5......it does! WOW!

It sure looks like this bike has serious rust issues. I'd evaluate that before I spent any money on parts. bk

Arrowana, If the rest of the frame looks as bad as the BB, it's time to pull the sheet up to the head board. It's gone.

Brad

If you do manage to get it out (and do give the Coke/Cola soak a try - it may work), then there are also some cheaper threadless BB designed for repairs where threads are stripped. See Niagara Cycles: https://www.niagaracycle.com/index.ph..._id=37&sort=2a