lostarchitect 

Yeah, sounds like they ripped him off more than once. Not cool.

Mondoman

Sculp, I think what most here are surprised about is the need to replace the front chainrings.

It certainly makes sense that you would need to replace the chain once or even twice after 3000 miles, but chains only cost around $15-20 each, and are very easy to replace yourself with only a chain tool needed (maybe $10-15).

Replacing a rear cassette after you've gone through a couple or more chains is reasonable; a PG-850 12-26 cassette runs about $30. Cassettes require a few more tools to replace them yourself, but are still quite easy. You'll need a chain whip and a cassette lockring tool, maybe $20 total for both, and a wrench or ratchet that fits into the lockring tool to apply torque. A torque wrench is useful when installing the lockring, but not strictly necessary once you learn how tight they should be.

Having the bike shop do either/both of the above will add their labor charge and probably at least double the parts cost, so you can see why so many decide to learn to do at least these simple recurring jobs themselves.

Glad you are enjoying the bike, and hope you didn't get too flooded recently!

Sculptor7

Yes I am going to have to be more alert. Don't know why it never occurred to me to ask about either the pedals or the drivetrain parts, particularly since I have gotten into overhauling a few vintage bikes and am becoming parts-conscious. Think I already have most or all the tools necessary to do the job as I have been acquiring some for the past two years including a basic kit from PricePoint that seems pretty complete for basic repairs. Also picked up a few Parks tools, and now have my own stand. Lousy rainy week here. Have not been out riding for the past three days.

bradtx

"So I guess anyone who owns a quality bike must expect to shell out a few hundred dollars each year to keep it running properly."
--Sculptor7

I disagree. Not to the penny, but fairly close I could budget (one really shouldn't budget a hobby ) about $100 for a set of tires, $20 for a chain every year, $40 every two years for a cassette. Chainrings? I haven't had to replace any because of wear yet. Doing my own maintenance saves some money also.

Chain maintenance for me is generally alternating between a petroleum based lube and a wax lube. The petroleum based lube protects the metal, the wax is good for flinging off dirt, something I picked up on for the mountain bike. I'll clean the chain when it looks bad with WD40 and a toothbrush and apply the oil based lube. I'll also measure the chain at this point and if it's stretched in the least, it's replaced and recycled.

Brad

jrickards

Given the discussion here about looking after your chain, rings and cassette, I am a bit embarrassed to admit that I haven't been very good to my bike, despite having only one and needing it for commuting. I am thinking that perhaps I should just bite the bullet this winter and replace the chainrings, cassette and chain. I have a '02 Norco Bigfoot which according to the Norco site as seen through the Web Archive (2002 Norco Site), have Truvative chainrings (???), a Shimano Alivio cassette and a KMC chain. My favourite store is MEC.ca which stocks Sunrace and SRAM components, plus a couple of Shimano items too. Can I mix brands such as putting Sunrace chainrings and cassette and chain on my non-Sunrace bike?

KenCarlson

Just to give an example, my commuter bike that I ride year-round in the northeast on salted roads, I wear out a chain every 2k miles, and I had a chainring that needed to be replaced at 2100 miles once. Deraillers last me two winters. I put about 1700-2000 miles per year on that bike. That's for a bike that has chunks of semi-frozen salty slush sitting on all the drivetrain components for 4 months at a stretch until spring arrives.

Ken

2manybikes

It would be nice if the salt was not used.