Caliper brakes retrofit?
#1
Caliper brakes retrofit?
OK, guys, this is another one of Rainman's out-in-left-field queries.
As many of you know, my primary commuter was originally a Giant Cypress comfort hybrid that I have converted to pretty much a road bike, or at least something that looks like a mutant 'cross bike, including Shimano 105 STI 9-speed shifters. Because of the different mechanical advantage of road brake levers vs mtb-type levers, the original equipment V-brakes just didn't work very well at all with the STI. The shop installed Avid Shorty center pull cantilevers. These have not been very satisfactory either. They just don't feel like they have much stopping power no matter what I try.
I have previously asked your advice about persistent screeching of the front brake. I have tried EVERYTHING - cleaning, sanding, filing the brake pads, scrubbing the rims with Scotchbrite, hairspray, solvent, etc., etc. Even put NEW pads and a NEW rim on and STILL got squealing. Some things might have reduced, but not eliminated the squeal for ONE stop after which everything returns to normal. The rear has never squealed and none of my true road bikes ever do this. Hell, I even have a new fork. I only mention this because someone once mentioned the possibility of misaligned brake mounting posts, not that I replaced the fork for that reason, but it has been replaced. The new fork is a Surly CrossCheck cyclocross fork. This whole discussion of the brakes is because more than one person mentioned that they have the Shorties and experiencing squealing problems, also.
Finally to the point. Is it possible to install some kind of long armed caliper brakes on a frame like this? It does have what would appear to be bolt holes for caliber brake mounting; my fender mounting bolts use them. This squeal and what I consider insufficient stopping power have been going on for over a year now and are pretty embarassing/aggrevating. The wrench at my LBS said it might be possible but might not help. He suggested regular filing of the pads. I have filed, etc. as described to little effect. This guy is a very good mechanic, and I do trust him, but as I have learned more about bike mechanics myself I sometimes find that some of you guys have different insights on things. I did see a set of Tekro calipers that appear to be long enough to do the job and they are inexpensive enough ($12.95) to try at least one at no great loss. What do you think? Anyone else out there as stupid, I mean adventurous, as I seem to be?
Thanks,
Raymonde
As many of you know, my primary commuter was originally a Giant Cypress comfort hybrid that I have converted to pretty much a road bike, or at least something that looks like a mutant 'cross bike, including Shimano 105 STI 9-speed shifters. Because of the different mechanical advantage of road brake levers vs mtb-type levers, the original equipment V-brakes just didn't work very well at all with the STI. The shop installed Avid Shorty center pull cantilevers. These have not been very satisfactory either. They just don't feel like they have much stopping power no matter what I try.
I have previously asked your advice about persistent screeching of the front brake. I have tried EVERYTHING - cleaning, sanding, filing the brake pads, scrubbing the rims with Scotchbrite, hairspray, solvent, etc., etc. Even put NEW pads and a NEW rim on and STILL got squealing. Some things might have reduced, but not eliminated the squeal for ONE stop after which everything returns to normal. The rear has never squealed and none of my true road bikes ever do this. Hell, I even have a new fork. I only mention this because someone once mentioned the possibility of misaligned brake mounting posts, not that I replaced the fork for that reason, but it has been replaced. The new fork is a Surly CrossCheck cyclocross fork. This whole discussion of the brakes is because more than one person mentioned that they have the Shorties and experiencing squealing problems, also.
Finally to the point. Is it possible to install some kind of long armed caliper brakes on a frame like this? It does have what would appear to be bolt holes for caliber brake mounting; my fender mounting bolts use them. This squeal and what I consider insufficient stopping power have been going on for over a year now and are pretty embarassing/aggrevating. The wrench at my LBS said it might be possible but might not help. He suggested regular filing of the pads. I have filed, etc. as described to little effect. This guy is a very good mechanic, and I do trust him, but as I have learned more about bike mechanics myself I sometimes find that some of you guys have different insights on things. I did see a set of Tekro calipers that appear to be long enough to do the job and they are inexpensive enough ($12.95) to try at least one at no great loss. What do you think? Anyone else out there as stupid, I mean adventurous, as I seem to be?
Thanks,
Raymonde
__________________
If it ain't broke, mess with it anyway!
If it ain't broke, mess with it anyway!
#2
feros ferio

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 1,880
From: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
With brake calipers, the longer the reach, the lower the mechanical advantage. Since single-pivot sidepulls will probably be worse than your current brakes, do not attempt your experiment without dual-pivot units.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
Likes: 9
From: England
Shimano long-reach dual caliper brakes (105 or rx-100) are, without a doubt, the finest thing that Shimano have ever made.
They are even used on Campy equipped bikes by riders who need that extra clearance.
In my experience, they stop as well as good cantelever brakes.
They are even used on Campy equipped bikes by riders who need that extra clearance.
In my experience, they stop as well as good cantelever brakes.
#5
RetroGrouchWrench

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: Central Iowa
Bikes: Schwinn's: World Voyager, Tempo, 754, 594, 2 Travelers, Mesa Runner, and a few cheepies.
Tectro makes a version of the streight pull/long arm for BMX with somewhat shorter arms that work ok with slr brake levers, good stopping power but prolly not enough clearence for fenders.
Try regular long arms with a travel agent, Sheldon Brown has an article bout this stuff. I have found long arm brakes work ok with old non-areo brake levers too, thats how I got those brakes on my gravel road bike and still use a drop bar.
kev
Try regular long arms with a travel agent, Sheldon Brown has an article bout this stuff. I have found long arm brakes work ok with old non-areo brake levers too, thats how I got those brakes on my gravel road bike and still use a drop bar.
kev
#6
Raymond, don't spend the $12.00 for the brake experiment.
If you don't mind experimenting with old caliper brakes, I will give you a pair. I have a million of them looking for homes.
Just tell me what size bolt you need and I will them to you.
If there is one reason that caliper brakes might work it is that they are easier to center. I wonder if one of your pads is applying more pressure than the other resulting in squeeling and lack of proper brake power.
If you don't mind experimenting with old caliper brakes, I will give you a pair. I have a million of them looking for homes.
Just tell me what size bolt you need and I will them to you.
If there is one reason that caliper brakes might work it is that they are easier to center. I wonder if one of your pads is applying more pressure than the other resulting in squeeling and lack of proper brake power.
#7
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: San Jose, CA
You might ask your local wrench about Problem Solvers Travel Agents with an adjusting barrel. They can order them from QBP.
What this item does is allows you to use standard pull brake levers with your original v-brakes.
There are a couple of products out there to do the same thing, but these are the easiest for most shops to get.
What this item does is allows you to use standard pull brake levers with your original v-brakes.
There are a couple of products out there to do the same thing, but these are the easiest for most shops to get.
#8
Thanks for the help, gang! Mike, I appreciate the offer, but shipping the brakes will cost almost as much as buying one pair. I need around 80 mm reach. The only calipers I have seen that offer that much are Tektro 984 which go 70-90. The older Shimano long reach only seem to be 47-57 mm.
Mike, you may have something on the uneven pressure idea. I may pursue that. The current cable setup is link-unit type. I may change it to the old straddle wire type setup. Thoughts on this?
Regards,
Raymond
Mike, you may have something on the uneven pressure idea. I may pursue that. The current cable setup is link-unit type. I may change it to the old straddle wire type setup. Thoughts on this?
Regards,
Raymond
__________________
If it ain't broke, mess with it anyway!
If it ain't broke, mess with it anyway!





