I've done some quick research into this, but I have to confess that I know next to zero about mechanics so would really appreciate some info for the idiot-minded (me).

I had a Ritchey Pro 4-Axis 84/96 (8-12cm) threadless stem on my bike and wanted the handlebars raised because I was having neck pains and had managed to position myself so badly that the left ulna nerve became badly inflamed. A shop in Guad changed the stem to a Specialized 6061 Series Multi-position stem (that's about all I know about it) which raised my handlebars around an inch. While this works, I'd still like it up about another 1-2 inches to get away from feeling like a vulture when I ride (head jammed in neck). I know being lower is more aerodynamic, etc, etc, but it's just not comfortable for me. Everything else is good (seat position, etc) according to the shop.

So...would a a stem raiser do the trick for this and can I even do it with a Specialized stem? The reason I ask is that the shop didn't seem to think that the bars could go up any higher but I'm not sure they understood that I was asking about adding a raiser. I know that the bars are as high as they can go on the Specialized stem and I'm pretty sure I can ride ok as they now are, but if a raiser can be added, I'd be a lot happier. Also, what type of raiser is best? I want to do this right. And one last stupid question...I know that there's a possibility that the cables might not be long enough (the brakes look like there isn't much left but there might be something that I'm missing), so should I just go ahead and buy some brake and shift cable just in case? There is an LBS about 10 minutes from here, who did a great job at reassembling the bike when I came home, so I know they'd be fine w/the mechanical side of it.

Sorry to be repeating an old, old question, but big thanks in advance for allowing me to ask it again.

The specialized stem comes with several shims to change the angle so there maybe a taller one for your stem and you will probably need to lengthen at least the front brake cable to raise it any higher than current height. The lbs probably gave you the tallest one that would not require changing cables. The stem riser can be used so long as the forks steer tube(part the stem clamps to)is aluminum or steel and not carbon. Most of these are not that bad looking Dimension and Zoom are 2 that we use and come in black or silver and usually raise the bars about 75-80mm and there is room on the shaft to lower it if to high. If doing this make sure they install it with stem all the way up so the cables will be at max length and to lower will be something that you can do your self.

Your description of "head jammed into neck" makes me suspect that there is more going on there fit wise than just a stem that doesn't give enough rise. Me thinks frame is to small. How big are you and what frame are riding?

Well, there are riser stems. Dead similar in function to the horizontal stems, but angled upwards. Apart from cable lengths, swap is a non issue. Length (forward displacement of bar) options are limited. Then there are adjustable stems. All but a select few is a single-pivot design, so reach changes with the elevation. Also a non-issue swap.

Then there are these puppies. Goes on top of your steerer tube, and then take your current stem. A bit kludgy looking in use, and I've heard someone worrying about undue stress on the steerer. But basically a well established product.

I kinda like them, apart from the kludginess. If you only want to change height, you can predict real well where your bar will end up.

I should have explained a bit more. The bike is a 49cm and I'm 65". The shop had my measurements when they built it, so everything is great except for my comfort level w/the handlebars. I know I ride too heavily on my hands and grip way too tight, so that's something I'm trying to get out of doing. I used to ride the brakes HARD when going downhill because anything over 18-23mph is outside of my comfort level. I know it's better to be at a sharper angle when riidng, but it just doesn't feel "right" to me. I don't actually have neck pains or anything else like that, but that's just how the angle makes me feel.

For nwbikeman and dabac: thanks for the pointers. The bike is a titanium touring, so I think the only carbon on it is the seat post. I'm going to try the raisers w/new cables. I think you're right about changing the stem w/out having to change the cables. That makes sense when I think about the comments of the mechanic. If nothing else, this is worth a try. I'm never going to be a pro, so I don't care if my angle isn't perfect or I look a bit "kludgy"...heck, I already am a klutz, what's a little kludge added into the mix?

Thanks!

What's the seat to handlebar drop with current set up? I don't have your measurements, obviously, but a too small frame will result in large drop from seat, thereby making for uncomfortable reach. Certainly not something you want in a Touring rig. Also, a too short top tube will have you pitched too far over the handlebars making for that 'too much weight on hands' feeling you describe. So, sometimes, paradoxically, a larger frame will make for a more comfortable and upright riding position than a smaller frame because seat and handlebars are closer to same height and you have more of your weight on the saddle. This is long way of saying that 49cm is a very small frame. Perhaps its not the frame but an adjustable stem plus and added stem riser is an awful of tinkering with handlebar height for a frame that is supposed to otherwise be correct size. FWIW, My wife is 5'5" and she rides 51cm or 52cm depending on manufacturer.

Before you go spending money on shorter/higher stems, you need to get your weight off your hands. You have too much weight on your hands because your center of gravity is somewhere forward of your feet and your death grip on the handlebar is the only thing keeping your face off the pavement.

Level the saddle and slide it back to where you can feel your center of gravity over the feet, where you can maintain your riding position with little or no pressure on the hands. This sounds counter-intuitive because it will increase your reach to the handlebar, but you can deal with the reach later. You can't walk, run, jump, skate, ski, hit a golf ball, or fire a gun without your center of gravity over your feet. Riding a road bike is no different.

You will soon find that once the falling-on-the-face sensation is gone, your confidence in your control of the bike will grow, too.

You're absolutely right about needing to get rid of the death grip. I'll try your suggestion on the seat. It's not even a falling-on-my-face sensation, but just scared shi*less of the speed (and I ride a 150cc scooter up and down the mountains here--haven't figured that one out yet).

In my previous response, I said that I wasn't neck sore, but that's not quite true. I did get a crick/soreness in my neck, but I think it goes back to that death grip. Whenever I faced a steep decline, I would tense up until I got to the bottom. I also was never comfortable with my hands in the hoods (?) of the bars (or whatever the underneath area is called) so that may also have added to the problem.

I really don't think the bike is a bad fit since the shop worked w/my measurements and the one in Guad seemed to think it was good when they changed the stem. They had me riding on it as they did the various checks. When I did my trip, I didn't get off of it all sore, etc, but I just never felt comfortable with the low angle (head down, buns up). Maybe this is just something I need to get over with more practice. I'd been "training" on a hybrid with straight bars, so I guess I just didn't transition too smoothly.

BIG thanks for the help and suggestion!

Da nada. The 49 cm frame sounds like a good fit but the position will take some getting used to. Getting your balance over the feet is where it all gets started. In balance, the sensation should be very much like riding the scooter except with a more horizontal torso--sort of like skiing in a semi-tuck.

Always happy to help those with open minds.

a bit tidier , but harder to source, NL BBB, has a quill to go inside a short steerer,
and a bunch of keyed shim spacers, that make up for the quill being the tube ID.
clever part is the bolt that tightens the wedge that tightens it inside the steerer,
is internally threaded, for the top cap that pre loads the headset adjustment.
part # BHP 21.
It was a chore to find a retailer , with a Bike Mine Account,
,since bike mine got the BBB distribution contract for the US., finally got one thru R&E in Seattle .

Dont know where they are sold in Mexico.. might have to get it shipped in..
Taiwan made it, as it's same price as Delta and zoom/satori 'heads up" ones.

Thing I've heard about those is that they're actually intended to be used as extenders for quill stems. ID for a threadless steerer tube may not be a good enough match for things to work, not to mention that a threadless steerer won't be expecting the expanding load generated by the wedge. Whether that's an issue or not IRL, I have no idea.

That your neck hurts it might not be related with the handlebars but maybe is a saddle position problem or a core problem.

To post a picture of your bike would help IMO.

If the bike is advertised as having a 'Carbon Fork' does that necessarily mean the steerer tube is carbon? Is it easy to tell an aluminum
from a carbon steerer tube? Thanks.

I concur with the need to try the seat back further, but at that point I would not limit stem change to height alone. Stem length is just as important, if not more so, and you would have now increased the seat to bar distance.

No.

Carbon forks come in full carbon, or aluminium steerer bonded to carbon blades/legs or whatever you choose to call them.
Yes. An aluminium steerer will be basically untreated metal, so as soon as you get a little bit of it exposed you should be able to tell.

These are all very good comments and haven't been addressed.

dengidog,

How much higher is your seat than the handlebars?

Sh*t. Another response to a zombie thread. I posted to it as well so I can't call anyone an idiot either.