As noted, modern drive belts don't stretch so that isn't a problem. They do have a couple of issues though.

First, they can't be separated for installation like a chain so the frame has to be specifically built with a separating drive side dropout so the belt can be installed or replaced. You can't use a belt drive in a standard frame without a lot of modifications.

Second, you do have to be able to adjust belt tension so horizontal dropouts of one form or another (like a fixie or IGH) are required.

Strangely enough, my Calfee frame has the seatstays bolted to the dropouts, so I really could run a belt on it.

Apparently so if the bolt is the only attachment point. I wonder if that's by design or just a coincidence.

I doubt that it was intended for a belt; More likely for ease of assembly and repair.

Shimano Dura-Ace and Campy Record are nickel stainless. They don't show rust and I can count on at least 5000 miles before stretching 1/16" / foot.

The best solution for surface rust on a chain is to not worry about it. It doesn't matter. As long as the inner moving parts of the chain are well lubricated and the bike is ridden on a regular basis, the friction surfaces will be free of rust and the visible rust is nothing more than a cosmetic blemish.

True, but isn't there still gonna be some rust in there somewhere?

Nice sig btw

Sounds good, but expensive. Do they do a 7 speed one?

They must be cheap enough to replace often anyway, but they would be good from a maintenance aspect.

A cheap chain is around $12 here. Not a big investment.

I have the rustbuster chain. It does look exactly like the surface of galvinized nails.

The idea of a belt drive for a replacement to a chain is a pointless suggestion in in this case.

Although the belt drive is a great idea, you need to have a frame which can be split on the chain / seat stay drive side; or e-stays, which in the OP's case, does not have this feature; so can not be used; also it will only work with a single speed / internal gear setup, also which the OP doesn't have.

If the OP wants a chain which won't rust, there are Ti-Nitride coated chains available, but if the OP is using his bike to commute, corrosion will happen at the moment, due to the amount of grit (salt) that the local authorities are laying on the roads at the moment.

OP agrees (), but this rust hater chain sounds like the right kind of thing. Will definitely look into it - changing the chain as it is isn't a problem, but as I seem to wear through a sprocket set and a set of chain rings with every chain according to the LBS.

How much is one of these Ti-Nitrate thingies? Sounds like it might be a reasonable investment if the rust stops me going loopy, although there isn't much salt on the roads here anyway, which makes my morning rides a little sketchy (was wheels pinning all the way up a hill the other day - eek! )

As I write this my bike is outside in the (great ) British winter, so it would be useful for this kind of thing too.

Apparently the concept of thread drift isn't well known to you. Sure, a belt drive isn't an option for the OP right now but it is an option for someone looking for a bike suitable for all-weather and bad weather use who want to minimize maintenance time and hassles. Maybe there is one in his future.

That was an attempt to kill the tread drift, as it was going places which the OP's bike couldn't

Back to the chain problem, looking at Buggington's bike specs, it's a 7 speed, which gives problems to what chains are avaliable, unfortunalty the Ti-Nitride chains (that I have been able to find) are only available from 9-11 speed, so that kills that idea.

Another option would be to look at what lube is used, something like a wax based lube, Pedros Ice Wax, or White Lightning, or one of Finishline Ceramic based lubes, all of these should be good at rust prevention, however as I mentioned, being in the UK, and at this time of year means a lot of salt type grit on the roads, which is corrosive to bikes, just giving the bike a clean water wash when you get home will help in prevening some corrosion, but won't prevent it totally.

They are relatively expensive and I didn't know we were talking 7-speed.
Use an oil base lube and try to keep the bike dry if possible.
And ride on.

I've switched to Dura-Ace chains and I'm getting about the same mileage out of them. I attribute most of that to leaving the original factory coating on and never cleaning it (just a wipe down with a towel after each ride).

Hmmm... That makes it sound like its for road bikes only - I don't know many MTB's that have 9-11 speeds! Shame, cos that sounded like it could have been a good solution.

The waxes sound like a good idea, but how does it work better than oil?
I do already, but sometimes it's just not possible to keep it dry



I only get about 1500 out of a cheap chain before stretching well over 1/8" - although it is a well used MTB.

For gearing, 10 speed is now all but standard on new MTB's from mid range up, with the introduction of 10 speed Deore for 2012, 9 speed was standard till 2010, when XT and SLX went 10 speed. 9 speed has been around since the late 90s, with 8 speed being long obsoletes since then, and parts supply in the UK is poor for anything except entry level components.

Lower end bikes will still have 7 / 8 speed, but due to the availbilty of parts, upgrading / replacing them can be harder than with 9/10 speed.

For lube types, have a look here https://www.finishlineusa.com/products/lubechoices.htm

For chain wear / lifetime, 1500 miles seems like a short distance for a chain, have you ever replaced your cassette? as these don't last forever, and a worn cassette can cause premature chain wear

Now that I think about it I think that it was nearer 1200 miles, from new (bike is just coming up to two years old now) and had the chain, chainrings and sprockets changed. The teeth on the derallieurs are starting to look a bit flat now too, so that might be on the list to do. Anyway. Thread drift...

Had no idea 10 speed even existed! Figured it would for the roadies, although TBH with my nine speed one the gaps between gears is so small I double tap the shifter anyway.

Back to the wax/oil situation, reading through that link there, it sounds like the wetubes are the best, which is unfortunate because that's what I use at the moment. Maybe I do just need to use more oil after all...

A little off topic.

Waterproof industrial roller chain exist. Tsubaki had a triple coated steel roller chain for marine and car wash applications;

https://www.ustsubaki.com/roller/neptune.html

"The anti-rust performance of NEPTUNE® Chain lasts twice as long as traditional zinc coating and ten times longer than nickel plated chain. In operations exposed to water, seawater, or outdoor conditions-even acid rain- NEPTUNE® Chain keeps your lines moving.

Unlike other anticorrosion treatments, our innovative plating process uses low temperatures, which means component hardness and strength are maintained. And our special process results in no hydrogen embrittlement, so there are no adverse affects on the strength of the chain. NEPTUNE® Chain has the same average tensile strength and maximum allowable tension as our ASME/ANSI Standard Chain".

The issue is of much significance to me, because it may rain for days where I live and the bike stands outside during the day. In winter, the chain rubs against piles of snow. The chain waxing mixture I developed, eliminating the rust for good, consists of:

ACF-50
LPS 3
Boeshield T9

ACF-50 is the most expensive of the three and its fraction is about 25%. The two other build it up to 100%. Last year I also started adding the powder of molybdenum disulfide which makes the coating dark but appears to prolong the lifetime of the chain by hardening its surface. In any case, the situation is so good that I bother to check the chain at 6-week intervals, no matter how much it rains, and I am down to once every 4 months applications or something. Chain-L may be going along a similar line.

Wow. Much chemistry going on here! Sounds like you ride in much the same conditions as me, but I often take my bike off road, so dirt resistance is important. Does your compound attract much dirt?

Because of ACF-50, it takes a couple of days to dry out. This is when dust can be attracted. I have never really tried to dry it out, with a compressor or otherwise, so I cannot comment how it would work then. Without disulfide, I use it on any other bike or car component and it penetrates dirt if it mattered. The constituents are standard off the shelf retail.

I vote for the chain cleaner. The biggest way grit gets on to a chain on the street is when the front wheel splashes gritty water on it. It is best to clean and oil or wax right after a ride. Those cleaners really are pretty fast.

Dura-Ace chain may be a whole other planet for a number of reasons. Besides the steel being better, the rollers could have a much closer fit which would keep grit out.

I bet the insides of the rollers and the pins keep oil on them long after it rubs or washes off the sideplates.

Cool, thanks. I'll look into that some more.

I've got a chain cleaner (Muc-off) but its a pain to have to do that after every wet ride, which here is most of the time! Nonetheless, probably some of the best £15 I've ever spent.