Milling a stem is the best solution?
01-09-12 | 09:27 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 1
Milling a stem is the best solution?
I have a bike with a short headtube (Affinity Lopro) and my stem (150mm tall, Nitto Pearl 9) going to the absolute bottom of the headtube is still too far out, like 20mm too far.
I imagined milling the fork but soon learned it was a bad idea because it could compromise the integrity of the fork. Then some local riders suggested that I mill the bottom of the stem but I don't know if it is a good idea.
Is milling the bottom of the stem something that is usually done? Will it compromise the integrity of the stem (removing 20mm from 150mm)? Any other advice (besides getting another stem)?
I imagined milling the fork but soon learned it was a bad idea because it could compromise the integrity of the fork. Then some local riders suggested that I mill the bottom of the stem but I don't know if it is a good idea.
Is milling the bottom of the stem something that is usually done? Will it compromise the integrity of the stem (removing 20mm from 150mm)? Any other advice (besides getting another stem)?
01-09-12 | 09:39 AM
#3
The space coyote lied.
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 48,720
Likes: 10,977
From: dusk 'til dawn.
Bikes: everywhere
I've never done it but I'd imagine if you match the angle pretty close and cut with hacksaw then you'd be in business. I've never measured but I'd guess quill stems have a 45° angle. Grab a mitre box to get that 45° if stems are in fact 45 degrees.
Hmmm, if you've a very long stem might be tough to fit into a mitre box, though....
Hmmm, if you've a very long stem might be tough to fit into a mitre box, though....
01-09-12 | 10:54 AM
#4
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Un disclosed data... ? this a 1" threaded fork?
yes the butting reduces the ID at the bottom.
I would consider a quill to threadless adapter, they are not very deep insertion
and clamp a threadless stem onto it. you can pick from a much wider array of stems, then .
Someone will buy the nice Nitto stem as it is..
yes the butting reduces the ID at the bottom.
I would consider a quill to threadless adapter, they are not very deep insertion
and clamp a threadless stem onto it. you can pick from a much wider array of stems, then .
Someone will buy the nice Nitto stem as it is..
01-09-12 | 11:02 AM
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 16
From: Oxnard, CA
Bikes: 2009 Fuji Roubaix RC; 2011 Fuji Cross 2.0; '92 Diamond Back Ascent EX
You could cut the stem shorter as mentioned above. Just make sure you scribe a new minimum insertion line so someone down the road doesn't raise it too much. The other option is buying one the correct length and saving the long one for someone that needs more height.
01-09-12 | 09:33 PM
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 428
Likes: 3
From: SF Bay Area
Bikes: 2003 Lemond Zurich; 1987 Schwinn Tempo; 1968 PX10; 1978 PX10LE, Peugeot Course; A-D Vent Noir
The only problem I can think of with cutting the stem shorter is if the stem tub is not uniform in thickness (i.e., if it has a tapered inside diameter to accommodate the forcing cone used to hold the stem inside the steering tube). If that's the case, don't even think about cutting it down.
01-09-12 | 09:41 PM
#7
Banned
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,787
Likes: 3
un disclosed data... ? This a 1" threaded fork?
Yes the butting reduces the id at the bottom.
I would consider a quill to threadless adapter, they are not very deep insertion
and clamp a threadless stem onto it. You can pick from a much wider array of stems, then .
Someone will buy the nice nitto stem as it is..
Yes the butting reduces the id at the bottom.
I would consider a quill to threadless adapter, they are not very deep insertion
and clamp a threadless stem onto it. You can pick from a much wider array of stems, then .
Someone will buy the nice nitto stem as it is..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MacAttack
General Cycling Discussion
5
09-14-16 05:45 PM
