Loose lock ring
#26
On Two Wheels
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 514
Likes: 0
From: Middle Tennessee
Bikes: Moots Vamoots, Bianchi Volpe, 2 Salsa Casserolls (fixed & Triple), 2011 Salsa Chili Con Crosso, 1983 Schwinn Supersport, Schwinn Mesa MTB
I suspected a chainline issue as a derailed chain on a fixed gear is very dangerous and can cause lockups like that. But if you found your hub threads stipped, you've found your problem.
+1 Get the cog really tight then tighten the lockring.
Rotafixing works as well, but if you go too far you can break your chain or strip the hub. I've found JB Weld effective on a freewheel hub but then of course you can never remove the cog..
+1 Get the cog really tight then tighten the lockring.
Rotafixing works as well, but if you go too far you can break your chain or strip the hub. I've found JB Weld effective on a freewheel hub but then of course you can never remove the cog..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qIVEpyelP0
#27
Figure the chain line didn't help things either. It's been noisy since I installed the cranks and bb. When I set it on a stand and move the pedals I hear and feel vibrations in it, especially when it starts to slow down, but the chain line to my eye looks straight. Plus the cranks have like 1-2mm of play in them.
#28
It's easy and only takes a second. Then you know it's straight. Chainline is important on FG/SS bikes. 1-2mm in either direction is ok.
#30
Need to know the rear spacing of your frame, or where the rear measurement is coming from. Sprocket to face of dropout? That's what I always measure.
If you measured my way your chainline is off by 6.6mm (assuming a 120mm spaced frame). Definitely too much, but it really depends how you measured.
If you measured my way your chainline is off by 6.6mm (assuming a 120mm spaced frame). Definitely too much, but it really depends how you measured.





