Buffing out scratches
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 781
From: Saint Paul, Minnesota
Bikes: '08 Look 585, '07 Kuota Kebel, '80s Alan Peitsch
Buffing out scratches
I have seen many ads for bikes that say the paint has a few scratches and paint chips but they should easily buff out. So, I have what I think should be an easy question: What is the process/steps to buff out paint scratches and chips so that it turns out better than when you started?
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,848
Likes: 4
If the scratch doesnt go all the way to the primer or to the metal, light scratches can be sanded with 2000 grit wet sand paper and then polished up using some paint polisher. If its a deep scratch u have to use a paint to fill up the gap, then sand and then polish.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,559
Likes: 53
From: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline
I call a scratch something that if I drag my finger nail over it the nail catches on the "trench" of the scratch where material was significantly removed.
A "scuff" is when there's a mark but a fingernail dragged over it may feel the scuff but it doesn't catch.
For an actual scratch I go with filling the area with the same color paint and then wet sand down the worst of it with 600 used with care to only sand the "crown" of the paint patch. Then go to 2000 to blend and remove the 600 scratches. Finally some automotive polishing compound followed by a "cleaning" car wax that has a light super fine polishing compound in it. Another product that I got recently that I still need to try on some scuffs on my truck is ScratchX. It's got lots of good online reviews as a scuff buffer outer.
For a simple scuff I'd suggest the same ScratchX product. Or if you have it try some Mother's Mag Wheel polish. Or one of the milky white "Cleans and Restores While It Waxes" car wax products.
A "scuff" is when there's a mark but a fingernail dragged over it may feel the scuff but it doesn't catch.
For an actual scratch I go with filling the area with the same color paint and then wet sand down the worst of it with 600 used with care to only sand the "crown" of the paint patch. Then go to 2000 to blend and remove the 600 scratches. Finally some automotive polishing compound followed by a "cleaning" car wax that has a light super fine polishing compound in it. Another product that I got recently that I still need to try on some scuffs on my truck is ScratchX. It's got lots of good online reviews as a scuff buffer outer.
For a simple scuff I'd suggest the same ScratchX product. Or if you have it try some Mother's Mag Wheel polish. Or one of the milky white "Cleans and Restores While It Waxes" car wax products.
#4
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Anyway, maybe I'm just an eternal pessimist.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
I don't know, but I think the question should be -- if they were easily buffed out, wouldn't the seller have done that, rather than list an negative in the ad? You'd think that a seller would do the easy little things to make the item the most presentable, wouldn't you?
Anyway, maybe I'm just an eternal pessimist.
Anyway, maybe I'm just an eternal pessimist.
This is one of those things that sometimes sounds easier in the talking than it is in the doing. If you are doing it for the first time you may find yourself overcooking it and actually making it worse.
Last edited by Retro Grouch; 01-22-12 at 06:48 AM.
#7
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,559
Likes: 53
From: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline
Of all the products sold used the ones I'd look at with the most doubt when the seller ads on "will buff right out" is a bicycle. A lot of bike owners have really funny ideas of what buffing means. Frankly I'd assume that if they say "some light scratches that will buff right out" I'd take it as actually meaning that there's gouges that are at or nearly at the metal... or maybe INTO the metal. If it turns out that they really are just minor surface scuffs then count it down as one of the luckier days you've had.
#10
Thrifty Bill

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,645
Likes: 1,109
From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
I don't know, but I think the question should be -- if they were easily buffed out, wouldn't the seller have done that, rather than list an negative in the ad? You'd think that a seller would do the easy little things to make the item the most presentable, wouldn't you?
Anyway, maybe I'm just an eternal pessimist.
Anyway, maybe I'm just an eternal pessimist.
For the typical scrapes I see, I start with polishing compound and rubbing compound if the polishing compound does not work. Note both will remove some paint as well, and rubbing compound is more aggressive, so be careful.
I discount any and all claims by bike sellers. Some common claims are: "easy fix", "rare", "collectible", "fast" and more.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thehammerdog
Bicycle Mechanics
7
03-23-10 07:09 PM






