Big problems while switching gears
#1
Big problems while switching gears
I have a 2008 Giant Defy 3 with Shimano sora equipment, which is original. I am pretty sure I need it to be adjusted. I am very much a do-it-your-selfer and I have a backround in mechanics. So with a little instruction from some of you pros, I am sure I can make my shifting much smoother...
Anyone want to help this newbie out here?
Anyone want to help this newbie out here?
#2
2 Fat 2 Furious
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,996
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From: England
Bikes: 2009 Specialized Rockhopper Comp Disc, 2009 Specialized Tricross Sport RIP
Try taking a look here:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur
This will show you how to adjust the rear derailleur, I'm sure there's something similar for adjusting the FD if that's what you need.
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...nts-derailleur
This will show you how to adjust the rear derailleur, I'm sure there's something similar for adjusting the FD if that's what you need.
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#3
Mechanic/Tourist
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,522
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From: Syracuse, NY
Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.
I have a 2008 Giant Defy 3 with Shimano sora equipment, which is original. I am pretty sure I need it to be adjusted. I am very much a do-it-your-selfer and I have a backround in mechanics. So with a little instruction from some of you pros, I am sure I can make my shifting much smoother...
Anyone want to help this newbie out here?
Anyone want to help this newbie out here?
and also checking out: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread....com-shortcuts
as well as the Park Tool repair instructions at: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help.
It's very unproductive on both sides to come with no real question at all and with no knowledge of how to explain the issue. It is much better to study first so you understand how a particular system, such as the drive train, works. Then you can carefully and methodically attempt to correct the issue. Finally if you hit a snag you can tell us what you have tried and use the proper terms so we understand the problem you are having.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 02-17-12 at 04:13 PM.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,243
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From: Spokane, WA
Bikes: Specialized Sequoia Elite/Motobecane Fantom Cross Team Ti/'85 Trek 520
Make sure your rear derailleur isn't bent at an odd angle respective to the rear cogs.
You have a rear derailleur. It has 2 screws. H and L-High and Low. The low is the BIG gear/cog. The high is the LITTLE gear cog. I would put the chain on the middle wheel in the front. SHift the rear so its all the way in the highest gear (littlest cog). Adjust the H screw so that the centerline of the pulleys on the derailleur line up with the smallest rear cog. Now shift all the way to the lowest gear (biggest cog). Adjust the L screw so that the centerline of the pulleys on the rear derailleur line up with the largest rear cog. Make sure you can't push the derailleur past that point otherwise you will drop the chain inbetween the spokes and largest cog and bad things happen.
For the front, its pretty much the same except that H and L are reversed. H is the biggest cog and L is the smallest cog.
You have a rear derailleur. It has 2 screws. H and L-High and Low. The low is the BIG gear/cog. The high is the LITTLE gear cog. I would put the chain on the middle wheel in the front. SHift the rear so its all the way in the highest gear (littlest cog). Adjust the H screw so that the centerline of the pulleys on the derailleur line up with the smallest rear cog. Now shift all the way to the lowest gear (biggest cog). Adjust the L screw so that the centerline of the pulleys on the rear derailleur line up with the largest rear cog. Make sure you can't push the derailleur past that point otherwise you will drop the chain inbetween the spokes and largest cog and bad things happen.
For the front, its pretty much the same except that H and L are reversed. H is the biggest cog and L is the smallest cog.
#6
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Spokane WA
Bikes: Seven Axiom Ti, Trek 620, Masi cylocross (steel). Masi Souleville 8spd, Fat Chance Mtn. (steel), Schwinn Triple Bar cruiser, Mazi Speciale Fix/single, Schwinn Typhoon
try: https://www.youtube.com/results?searc...3.4.1.0.1l11l0 ...... (open in new window) gives several video demo choices on how to do
#7
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Make sure your rear derailleur isn't bent at an odd angle respective to the rear cogs.
You have a rear derailleur. It has 2 screws. H and L-High and Low. The low is the BIG gear/cog. The high is the LITTLE gear cog. I would put the chain on the middle wheel in the front. SHift the rear so its all the way in the highest gear (littlest cog). Adjust the H screw so that the centerline of the pulleys on the derailleur line up with the smallest rear cog. Now shift all the way to the lowest gear (biggest cog). Adjust the L screw so that the centerline of the pulleys on the rear derailleur line up with the largest rear cog. Make sure you can't push the derailleur past that point otherwise you will drop the chain inbetween the spokes and largest cog and bad things happen.
For the front, its pretty much the same except that H and L are reversed. H is the biggest cog and L is the smallest cog.
You have a rear derailleur. It has 2 screws. H and L-High and Low. The low is the BIG gear/cog. The high is the LITTLE gear cog. I would put the chain on the middle wheel in the front. SHift the rear so its all the way in the highest gear (littlest cog). Adjust the H screw so that the centerline of the pulleys on the derailleur line up with the smallest rear cog. Now shift all the way to the lowest gear (biggest cog). Adjust the L screw so that the centerline of the pulleys on the rear derailleur line up with the largest rear cog. Make sure you can't push the derailleur past that point otherwise you will drop the chain inbetween the spokes and largest cog and bad things happen.
For the front, its pretty much the same except that H and L are reversed. H is the biggest cog and L is the smallest cog.
Assuming the limit screws were correctly set when the bike was new, messing with the limit screw adjustment is almost always a bad idea.
#8
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Most derailleurs today hold adjustment very well. If a derailleur that used to trim correctly no longer does, there's a reason. It could be as simple as cable stretch (descriptive of effect not cause) and a tweak of the barrel adjuster is all that's needed.
But that's a dangerous assumption because a major cause of loss of trim is the hanger being bent inward (they rarely if ever bend outward). That changes the trim, but also the inner and outer limits, correcting only the trim leaves the bike vulnerable to overshifting beyond the low gear sprocket into the wheel.
My rule --- Every time I adjust trim, especially if trimming the RD outward, I confirm the low gear limit by pulling the cable away from the downtube like a bow string (or pushing the lower body manually in manually) and making sure I cannot overshift into the spokes.
BTW- if low gear limit and trim moved, then so did the high gear limit, and if they moved a lot or slightly a few times, then it's to square up the hanger.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#9
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From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Since the OP hasn't explained the problem, it's a bit pointless to offer good or bad advice.
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#10
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
he got good advice ---- read the available tutorials. the rest is apropos after he's done so.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#11
Sorry I didnt respond. It's correct that I posted prematurely without doing my research. I also asked a vauge question. Thanks for the helpful hints even though I didnt ask the right question...
I have been reading up and wathcing videos. I want to gain a little more knowledge before I start adjusting anything. I come from the car world where I have built high HP street/drag cars and I have forgotten what it's like to be the rookie. I am not use to having to ask questions.
Thanks for the replys.
I have been reading up and wathcing videos. I want to gain a little more knowledge before I start adjusting anything. I come from the car world where I have built high HP street/drag cars and I have forgotten what it's like to be the rookie. I am not use to having to ask questions.
Thanks for the replys.
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Tampa Bay, Florida
Bikes: 87 Bridgestone 550 (Shocking Electric Metallic Pink)
I have Sora on my newest road bike, it may be lower end on the food chain, but once dialed in, it works fairly well. Describe set-up, symptoms, and we will see what we can do to help.
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Snicklefritz
Bicycle Mechanics
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01-11-10 04:53 AM






