What to do about cassette seized to hub?
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What to do about cassette seized to hub?
Ok,
I have just moved my carbon up to Force, except for one thing. My cassette. I can't get my 5700 cassette off of the hub. The top 3 (Loose) cogs come off as they should, but the grouping of cogs seems to have seized onto the hub. Anyone have any suggestions? I'd like to reuse the cassette on another build but it is not IMPERATIVE. I tried everything I could without causing damage. But I am all out of ideas. Got any?
I have just moved my carbon up to Force, except for one thing. My cassette. I can't get my 5700 cassette off of the hub. The top 3 (Loose) cogs come off as they should, but the grouping of cogs seems to have seized onto the hub. Anyone have any suggestions? I'd like to reuse the cassette on another build but it is not IMPERATIVE. I tried everything I could without causing damage. But I am all out of ideas. Got any?
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Of the cogs that remain, rotate the outermost cog backwards to disengage it from the freehub shell (it probably dug in). You can do this with a screwdriver. If the next cog sticks too, repeat the procedure.
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I believe that is what happened. Now, in using a screwdriver what exactly am I using for leverage to do this? Doesn't the cassette roll counter clockwise?
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Simply anchor the tip of the screwdriver on the next cog inboard of the one you're trying to loosen, and use it as a lever. I would've suggested using two chain whips to counterrotate the cogs, but most people don't have two chain whips.
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Correct, most people don't. That is a good suggestion for the future though. I can always make myself a second chain whip. Only need 1 good one. I will give it a try in bout 45 minutes and let you know how it goes. Thanks in advance no matter the outcome.
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A large arc-joint plier would also work, you won't need tons of torque to back the cog out of its notches. Anchor one jaw of the plier on the outermost cog, the other jaw on any of the other cogs, and squeeze lightly to turn the outer cog backwards.
Last edited by mechBgon; 02-23-12 at 07:48 PM.
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Your screwdriver idea worked perfectly. I just tapped it with a small hammer (Very lightly) until each cog loosened. I had to do this for all but 1. THANKS for the help! Here is the Finished Result.
#9
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Glad to hear you got the cassette off.
What brand hub? Non-Shimano hubs often use aluminum in their freehub bodies to save weight. I try to avoid these due to the cassette cutting grooves into the body like what happened to you.
What brand hub? Non-Shimano hubs often use aluminum in their freehub bodies to save weight. I try to avoid these due to the cassette cutting grooves into the body like what happened to you.
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Japaneze EZO hubs. I think they are great except for that fact. However, after I got the old cassette off, I filled down the points that we're made from the metal pushing in. After about 5-10 minutes of trying to file them as flat as possible without cause any damage to the rest of it, the new cassette fit right on and didn't no seem to have any problems. The hubs thing is something I will definitely be paying attention to in the future however. But these wheels are awesome, and I have had no complaints over 2k+ miles other than the cogs digging in.
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I know it was a 'Campy Rider's' Joke. I'd a made the same joke, if I owned any Campy. Ha ha. In the meantime though, the Sram build did come out very nice. What's nice is because I just build up my backup bike in Rival, I will have very similar feeling bikes. The 5700 group goes on my touring bike which should initiate one hell of a touring season for me this year! Thanks for the compliments. Once again, thanks for all the help guys. I would have been riding a full force group plus a 105 cassette. ;( Not that there is anything wrong with it, my brain would know it was wrong.
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if you didnt see my latest build i branched out. ive got a bike built with ofmega now. overall it is heavy but some of the parts are worthy of the "putting my bike on a diet" thread.
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