oh Bob.

Hahaha wonderful...

Post delete reset ..


there is a tradition of trike racing in England, no brakes on the 2 in back ,
2 calipers on the fork..

so polo bike.. a pair of brakes on the same rear wheel will be easy ..

one ahead of the seat stay 1 behind.

each has a normal adjustment.. there are adapter plates to bolt on V brake bosses
where the frame had a sidepull in mind BMX is where those target ... both can be V brakes..

posh kit, Magura hydraulic rim brakes [ a V brake mount], is a closed master cylinder.
[unlike disc-brakes, airless, no expansion tank]
so vent for 1st is supply for the other, so, technically they can be daisy chained.
either lever makes the fluid pressure to push the slave pistons.

If you go with hydraulic brakes, just put a T connecting both brake lines.

But still I don't see the point, one regular brake set up properly is enough to stop the wheel and make it skid (and past that it does not count to the braking). Are you trying to bend the rim to make it narrower?

edit: just googled after polo bike... so I see now why you need this setup.

A hydraulic rear rim brake with two levers connected through a T fitting seems like the ideal setup. I'll bet you could find some decent used parts on eBay.

Hey, if we're posting $50 cable widgets...

https://www.magura.com/roadbike/en/


...Actually, these ones are from 10-15 years or so ago; with a bit of luck you could maybe find a set at a decent price...

Be careful.

Yeah If I could fine a set I would be all over that, ones I found are proprietary... Is there anyway to pilfer a disk brake and smash it together with a regular rim brake?

I appreciate that you spelled prerogative correctly.
I have nothing to add on the subject though.

What do other bicycle polo players do?

" Is there anyway to pilfer a disk brake and smash it together with a regular rim brake?"


there are, this year, cable to hydraulic converters, for Cyclo-cross racing.

Brifter cable pulls on the master cylinder mechanism..

the adapters fit under the handlebar stem.

hot setup .. Albeit un cheap ..

Thank you, I like words

Anyways I dont know, I live in a smaller city. There is maybe 10-20 diligent players in my area. All of them ride single brakes or two brakes attached to one lever.

fietbob do you have a link for that?

magura rim brake for frames with V brake bosses
https://www.magura.com/en/products/ri...11-pure-1.html

Hydraulic disc cable operated brake lever
TRP .. Tektro Racing Products, https://www.trpbrakes.com/category.ph...d=185&subcat=0
Hope [UK] https://www.evanscycles.com/products/...ystem-ec034986

Quick ideas for 2 rear brakes - 1. Find one of those old 'disc-ready' frames secondhand, run a rear V-brake and a rear cable operated disc. 2. braze some canti studs on the underside of the chainstays and add BMX style U-brake. 3. Braze new studs on the front of the seatstays and have 2 V-brakes.

Fietsbob had a good point about tricycle brakes which are worth a google.

Wish I could be there to see people's faces when you switch-hit the first time...

Dude, if I had a extra 300 ish bucks to throw into something im gonna crash into things I would just get a new frame and bike and so on. I think I might try the 2 brake option, maybe use some steel plates and there is a kickstand mount brazed to the frame and sorta secure it to that..

I'm guessing you won't switch hit that much - i.e. most of the time you're using dominant (another guess: right) hand.

Why not just cable rear brake to left lever for majority usage, and cable right lever to front brake, only keep it loose so you don't flip yourself over?
I.e. won't be perfect way to stop but you'll be able to "slow down quickly" while switch hitting on the left hand.

You can probably use a BMX detangler cable used with a gyro to spin the bars all the way around:


SST Oryg Shortcut Detangler Top Cable

However, using them in reverse isn't something I've tried. There may be some fighting from the second lever as you're squeezing the 1st one since both cables are connected at the Y.

If you find a gyro that will fit on 75-76 motobecane Im all ears. I mentioned earlier maybe that I tried this, it worked but the pull strength wasn't enough to stop on a dime, or at least in a acceptable amount. I think Im gonna make my life easier and just use a secondary rear brake. Or buy that 50 dollar little brake gadget...


Also AltheCyclist I am left handed but thats a moot point, I might just do what you say. As I was playing the other day I tend to hop around and when I do I have both hands on the bars. It would be easier to pull a tail whip to turn around quicker if I had a front brake to steady myself..

Well the discussion seems to be going back to cable brakes but I'd like to comment on the use of a T block to use hydraulic brakes. Simply put it isn't going to work. A "T" in the line would let the pressure from one lever push fluid back up through the release hole of the second lever and overfill the reservoir. The levers are not a closed system with the possible exception of the Magura HS33 which may be. It's been too many years since I played with a set of those.

It's also other people's prerogative not to help you do that.

Could you use an interrupter lever on one side of the handlebar and a regular one on the other side (possibly with a shim if you're using flat bars)? The interrupter lever bending the cable housing out into a large bulge is the only issue I can think of, and depending on your bars, it might not do that too badly.

cable to brake after the interruptor lever
would come out under the hand grip. headed outboard, then ..

... loop back around to the front of the bike back to the headtube and go along the top tube as before. Sure it'd look pretty ghetto and might be a little mushy due to all the extra cable/housing, but seems like it'd work.

I just mounted a second brake behind the first one. One is a road short reach, other is a longer bmx style one. I used metal plates to offset the brakes so they arent all running through the regular brake mount. Looks and works well, the problem with the gyros is that the cable pull isnt enough and I think that in order to work well you have to pull up on both sides at once. So they end up being mushy and slightly weak. I wish my first way would have worked.. but sometimes the simplest answer is the best. Ill post a picture later or something..

Here is how I did it. Aluminum block drilled for a .25 roll pin in center to slip into cable stop. Two holes drilled for cable stop.




.

That should work okay.

The only possible issue I can see, is that pulling one lever pulls both cables at the pinch bolt, possibly pushing the other housing out far enough to pop out of its hole and get caught on top when the lever's released, perhaps leaving the brake somewhat applied.

To mitigate this, you could attempt to somehow fix all the housing ends in place so the short length of exposed cable above the brake either bends or forces the unused lever to move (assuming full-length housing), drill deeper cable stops (allowing the unused housing to move up without coming out) in a bigger chunk of aluminium, or engineer some kind of fancy straddle-hanger with floating cable clamps.

That's if it turns out to be an issue.