MuddKatt

It has Suntour XC-M front derailler.
Suntour X-1 rear

I ordered a CCP-22 crank puller for square shaft.
Started clicking on power stroke, so I nailed it with silicone and it runs quiet now. I know the BB is shot or close, as it's never been taken off. Maybe has 5k miles on the bike. It's my beater bike I take camping where I won't be upset if it gets stolen. Spends alot of time on the roof rack in the rain...

I know it would probably be cheaper to have the LBS change it but then I won't have the fun of buying a new tool and learning a new skill.


My question is what tool should I get for the bb removal?
It will be my first BB I have ever done. The BB appears to have a three notch lockring on one side. On the drive side it has what looks like a washer with two flat sides.

HillRider

You have a cup-and-cone bottom bracket and will need either three special tools or, you can improvise if you plan to replace it with a cartridge type bottom bracket.

To do it right you will need:
1. A lock ring spanner, Park tools HCW-5 or equivalent
2. An adjustable cup pin spanner; Park SPA-6, SPA-1 or HCW-4
3. A fixed cup wrench; Park HCW-4.

Or you can improvise, particularly if you don't plan to reuse this bb:

1. Remove the lock ring using a punch and hammer in the notches (regular right handed threads)
2. Remove the adjustable cup using needle nose pliers in the pin holes
3.Remove the fixed cup by clamping the flats in a bench vise and rotating the entire frame. The fixed cup is left-hand threaded so you will have to rotate the frame clockwise to remove it and these cups can be VERY tight.

A Shimano cartridge bearing square taper or Octalink bottom bracket uses Park's BBT-22 tool and i recommend you go this route.

MuddKatt

Thank you very much.

I'll toss the BB then. No sense in buying tools I'll have no use for again ... so I'll try the improvised method

Two cans of pb blaster ready to go and all the fingers I can cross...

I have to wait for the crank tool ..

Will the size of the bb be written on the bb?

HillRider

The threading will certainly be English/ISO. I'm not sure if you have a 68 mm wide bottom bracket shell (most likely) or a 73 mm shell so measure that and choose a bb accordingly. You will have to measure the spindle length end to end (not including the threaded stubs if it's a nutted bottom bracket) and try to get close to that dimension if you want to keep the same crank.

MuddKatt

God of tools is smiling down upon me..I was digging through my bike box and low and behold there was a crank removal tool ... Totally forgot I had bought that.



The lockring was knurled so used the big channel locks on it and off it came... some pb on the drive side and it came off with a little difficulty but not as bad as I thought... The freewheel on this bike was rusted on, so I had to grease the bearings with it on the hub. Bike shop couldn't get it either. I'll get a new wheel when it freezes completely or falls apart

Big time wobble on the bb , had lots of rust scale and dust .. not a drop of grease.

Off to bike shop to see if I can get a cartridge..

I wonder why I never have done one before.

MuddKatt

TYVM Hillrider for the help.

It was a 68mm tube on the bottom. Bike shop matched it with a UN55 cartridge for 35 bucks. hand tightened everything and will wait for the tool to come in the mail to tighten it up. Good to go. It just cleared the plastic cable piece that was on the bottom of the frame. Had to pop it out to get the cartridge in but no prob. Phew!

HillRider

Great, glad it's working out. The bolt holding the under bottom bracket cable guide is often a problem with cartridges. Best to buy a shorter one or file down the original.