What is with this seatpost?
#1
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joel52
Joined: Apr 2012
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Bikes: 2012 Raliegh Misceo
What is with this seatpost?
Hi: Just picked up my first road bike, sold without seat. Figured i could swap a saddle a/o seatpost off my MTB or hybrid, but it looks to be of marginally smaller diameter-- other seatposts I have won't fit in-- and the top is not clamp style, so I can't just attach saddles I have to it. The post says SR on it. Bike is a Univega Viva Sport ($20!!!-- post in Univega appreciation thread to follow).
.
Does the post just need hardware for a seat with two rails underneath to attach to, and if so, can anyone tell me what that hardware is / where to find?
Or is this style post for some particular kind of seat that I would need?
Any info on it appreciated. Thanks.
Does the post just need hardware for a seat with two rails underneath to attach to, and if so, can anyone tell me what that hardware is / where to find?
Or is this style post for some particular kind of seat that I would need?
Any info on it appreciated. Thanks.
#2
Bianchi Goddess


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From: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
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Yes that post is missing all the hardware to attach a seat. Your better off just getting a new one. Does that one come out?
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Last edited by Bianchigirll; 06-01-12 at 06:52 AM.
#3
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From: Salinas , Ca.
Bikes: Bike Nashbar AL-1 ,Raligh M50 , Schwinn Traveler , and others
the hardware you are looking for can be found at a bike shop for a few bucks . just take the post to the shop with you and the staff will know what you need .
#4
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From: boston, ma
looks like the hardware from this should work https://www.amazon.com/Saddle-Clamp-P.../dp/B000AOA0T2
#5
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#1,is the seat post frozen in the frame?. or can it be moved , take it out an apply some grease so it will not freeze-up in the near future'
the teeth on those wear down and the saddle will slip.. angle insecure..
the teeth on those wear down and the saddle will slip.. angle insecure..
Last edited by fietsbob; 06-01-12 at 02:32 PM.
#6
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
looks like the hardware from this should work https://www.amazon.com/Saddle-Clamp-P.../dp/B000AOA0T2
To the OP: The proper diameter for the replacement seatpost can be found by removing the current one and reading the diameter engraved at its lower end.
#7
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Actually this is sort of a hybrid seatpost. It uses the same clamp hardware as clamp-on saddle brackets, but not the center section which is integrated into the post. If the OP buys a decent saddle bracket and chucks the center section, he can make this work. It won't be perfect because the serrations wont match, but it will work decently enough if he doesn't change the saddle position often.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Actually this is sort of a hybrid seatpost. It uses the same clamp hardware as clamp-on saddle brackets, but not the center section which is integrated into the post. If the OP buys a decent saddle bracket and chucks the center section, he can make this work. It won't be perfect because the serrations wont match, but it will work decently enough if he doesn't change the saddle position often.
#9
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From: boston, ma
#10
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
It clamps both sides of each rail. It works exactly like a standard saddle bracket. The only part that's different is the innermost U-bracket that would slip over the top of a pin type seat post. If you look at the photo, you'll see the post even has the square hole which keeps the bolt from rotating.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#11
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From: Oxnard, CA
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I think you are right but it is hard to tell from the pic if the top of that post is as wide as a standard saddle clamp. Looks a bit narrower (which could be an issue) but can't really tell from the angle the picture is taken at.
#12
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joel52
Joined: Apr 2012
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Bikes: 2012 Raliegh Misceo
Thanks all. I was having trouble visualizing how the linked part would attach.
Can't get to more photos or measurements until tomorrow.
Problem is, I can't 'order' anything. This is my new-to-me, first ever in my life steel road bike, all ready to go except for the minor issue of having no seat. I need to go for a ride ASAP!
Checked one local shop for the hardware tonight and they did not have it, but did have a replacement seat post for $21-- 105% of the cost of the bike!
Will check the other 3 shops tomorrow and if I can't get the hardware locally, will just have to spring for a new post.
Thanks again, will report back on the outcome.
Can't get to more photos or measurements until tomorrow.
Problem is, I can't 'order' anything. This is my new-to-me, first ever in my life steel road bike, all ready to go except for the minor issue of having no seat. I need to go for a ride ASAP!
Checked one local shop for the hardware tonight and they did not have it, but did have a replacement seat post for $21-- 105% of the cost of the bike!
Will check the other 3 shops tomorrow and if I can't get the hardware locally, will just have to spring for a new post.
Thanks again, will report back on the outcome.
#13
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From: Boulder County, CO
Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track
Rest assured, the $21 post this shop showed you is a pretty direct replacement for the incomplete one you have on the bike.
#14
Thrifty Bill

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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
I've cannibalized clamp parts for that style seat post many times from an old style round seat post clamp.
The OP's seat post was pretty common in the 1970s, I have had about ten Nishikis from the 1970s with that style post. All were on road/racing bikes.
At the same time, those posts were on the crappy side, and hefty, I would go with a newer style alloy post, with a traditional rail clamp. $21 at your LBS is about right. Want something cheaper? Measure your post, and head to the nearest co-op.
The OP's seat post was pretty common in the 1970s, I have had about ten Nishikis from the 1970s with that style post. All were on road/racing bikes.
At the same time, those posts were on the crappy side, and hefty, I would go with a newer style alloy post, with a traditional rail clamp. $21 at your LBS is about right. Want something cheaper? Measure your post, and head to the nearest co-op.
#15
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From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
I've used MANY of those clamps reptilezs linked from Amazon on orphaned seatposts. Here's how you use it with the OP's partial seatpost:
1. order Amazon seat-clamp, or scavenge it from bike-shop's junk pile. Or local college student self-serv bike-shop.
2. unscrew two nuts from both sides
3. remove two cupped washers from each side (4 total)
4. slide out clamp part in middle and toss (keep the bolt).
5. slide square bolt through seatpost top
6. slide on larger of cupped clamp washers on each side
7. install seat, rotate clamp washer to hold rails
8. slide on smaller clamp washers, rotate so clamp goes over seat-rails
9. install nuts on each side, rotate/slide seat to proper position
10. tighten nuts.
1. order Amazon seat-clamp, or scavenge it from bike-shop's junk pile. Or local college student self-serv bike-shop.
2. unscrew two nuts from both sides
3. remove two cupped washers from each side (4 total)
4. slide out clamp part in middle and toss (keep the bolt).
5. slide square bolt through seatpost top
6. slide on larger of cupped clamp washers on each side
7. install seat, rotate clamp washer to hold rails
8. slide on smaller clamp washers, rotate so clamp goes over seat-rails
9. install nuts on each side, rotate/slide seat to proper position
10. tighten nuts.
#16
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From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
Just in case my how-to steps doesn't explain it in abstract enough concepts. The Amazon clamp (and all Wald-type seat-clamps) uses two cupped washers per side. These washers have sections that holds onto the inside and outside of each seat-rail. The only thing we're tossing is the centre section that goes over a straight seatpost.
#17
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[edited to remove snarky comment... sorry!]
It doesn't matter what your original bike cost, $21 is cheap, even more so (in spades) when you " need to go for a ride ASAP!" You'd be riding now instead of making another post!
Don't get me wrong - I love to make things work, save money, not throw stuff away, and spend way too much time cruising used, cast out parts, specialty hardware/fastener stores, etc. etc. But $21, available immediately, riding immediately vs. spending another hour or a few days looking for a $5-10 alternative, to save $10 net .... come on!
It doesn't matter what your original bike cost, $21 is cheap, even more so (in spades) when you " need to go for a ride ASAP!" You'd be riding now instead of making another post!
Don't get me wrong - I love to make things work, save money, not throw stuff away, and spend way too much time cruising used, cast out parts, specialty hardware/fastener stores, etc. etc. But $21, available immediately, riding immediately vs. spending another hour or a few days looking for a $5-10 alternative, to save $10 net .... come on!
Last edited by Camilo; 06-01-12 at 02:47 PM.
#18
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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better to just buy a plain seatpost made to accept the clamp shown in #4..
those old posts shed aluminum and the teeth went away.
at least using the whole saddle clip, the teeth are both steel,
and match.
those old posts shed aluminum and the teeth went away.
at least using the whole saddle clip, the teeth are both steel,
and match.
Last edited by fietsbob; 06-01-12 at 02:41 PM.
#19
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
#20
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joel52
Joined: Apr 2012
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Bikes: 2012 Raliegh Misceo
To that end, shop number 2 did have something like the linked hardware and put it on my post this afternoon for $4.87. They warned that the threading on the seat post (pictured) did not exactly match the threading on the cupped washers and that it might be an issue. Sure enough, it held tight for about 2 miles and then slipped. But the bike rode well enough otherwise that I have no hesitation now springing for the new post.
Thanks again.
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