Cone Wrenchs Sizes
#1
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From: Grapevine, Texas
Cone Wrenchs Sizes
So I am looking at getting some more cone wrenches. Right now I just have a 14 and 15mm sizes. What other sizes should I get? I really don't want a complete set if I know I won't be using every size.
I did do a search of around 3 to 4 pages in the search function but did not find anything.
I did do a search of around 3 to 4 pages in the search function but did not find anything.
#3
I work on a ton of different bikes, and as above two each of
the double ended 13/14 and 15/16 does the job in 97% of the
wheels I encounter.
If you end up needing a 17 or 18, you can get it when you need it.
the double ended 13/14 and 15/16 does the job in 97% of the
wheels I encounter.
If you end up needing a 17 or 18, you can get it when you need it.
#4
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I used to make cone wrenches, and unless something changed since then, the only other size cone wrench needed is 15mm and those are actually fairly rare.
There are also 16 and 17mm locknuts (no cones that I know of) but you don't strictly need cone wrenches for these, as they're regular hex nuts and can be turned with a regular open end or box wrench.
BTW- be aware that 13mm and 13mm cone hubs often have locknuts that need a cone wrench also, so at least 13 and 14 need to be doubled. In summary, you need 2x13, 2x14, 1x15 (or 2), plus 16 and 17mm in either a cone or open end wrench.
There are also 16 and 17mm locknuts (no cones that I know of) but you don't strictly need cone wrenches for these, as they're regular hex nuts and can be turned with a regular open end or box wrench.
BTW- be aware that 13mm and 13mm cone hubs often have locknuts that need a cone wrench also, so at least 13 and 14 need to be doubled. In summary, you need 2x13, 2x14, 1x15 (or 2), plus 16 and 17mm in either a cone or open end wrench.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
The space coyote lied.



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I got on an '80s BMX hub that had 17mm cones the other day.
There have been a couple of times when I REALLY wanted these: (one day I'll plop down the $25 @ greenphantom.com)
If you work on Bendix coaster hubs, then these are the wrenches you've been looking for. One end is 7/8", the other is 47/64".

If you work on Bendix coaster hubs, then these are the wrenches you've been looking for. One end is 7/8", the other is 47/64".
There have been a couple of times when I REALLY wanted these: (one day I'll plop down the $25 @ greenphantom.com)
If you work on Bendix coaster hubs, then these are the wrenches you've been looking for. One end is 7/8", the other is 47/64".
If you work on Bendix coaster hubs, then these are the wrenches you've been looking for. One end is 7/8", the other is 47/64".
Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 07-03-12 at 11:08 AM.
#6
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#7
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When I went to regrease a Shimano rear hub on one of my bikes, I found that a 17mm cone wrench was needed for the locknut.
The hub is an XT, FH-M760. The locknut is not like the typical skinny hex nut found on most hubs. It is more like a round washer has a pair of narrow flats milled on it. One side of the locknut is serrated and completely round, and this is the part that faces outward and bears against the dropout. The flats are on the side of the locknut that faces the hub, and are a little less than half the width of the locknut.
You cannot get a normal wrench on the locknut. To turn or hold the locknut, you need a cone wrench.
The hub is an XT, FH-M760. The locknut is not like the typical skinny hex nut found on most hubs. It is more like a round washer has a pair of narrow flats milled on it. One side of the locknut is serrated and completely round, and this is the part that faces outward and bears against the dropout. The flats are on the side of the locknut that faces the hub, and are a little less than half the width of the locknut.
You cannot get a normal wrench on the locknut. To turn or hold the locknut, you need a cone wrench.
#8
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From: Minneapolis, MN, USA
Bikes: 1990 Burley Bossa Nova, 1992 Paramount PDG-70, 1993 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2005 Jamis Dakar XC Pro, 2007 Rivendell Bleriot
Heh. A vague memory of just that nut Just Riding described was appearing in my head as I was reading the posts above about not needing a cone wrench for the outer nuts...
Also, whenever I have to do a hub adjustment I curse my cheap self for buying short, double ended cone wrenches rather than nice long single ended ones, FWIW.
Also, whenever I have to do a hub adjustment I curse my cheap self for buying short, double ended cone wrenches rather than nice long single ended ones, FWIW.
#9
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Bikes: Surly LHT, two Fisher ATBs, Specialized Sirrus
Careful with torque on the locknut. Not sure about the MH-M760, but the 770 has aluminum axles and the threads strip which happened to me. I torque down about one half that of a steel axle.







