Ticking in Rim
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 481
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From: New York and San Juan
Bikes: Kestrel Talon SL, Surly Steamroller, Equipe SS/FG Beater
Ticking in Rim
I went down a couple of weeks ago after hitting a pothole. Both the bike and I survived although I lost a little blood. The front rim picked up a ticking sound when turned slowly. I took the bike to the LBS who took the rim and tube, tire off and found all the spokes intact. The Mavic Equipe rim wasn't bent and was still true and he claimed something had broken inside the rim but wasn't serious and that riding with the rim would not present a problem. After I took the bike home I removed the tire, tube and strap to look for the problem but couldn't find anything. I spun the rim in my hand and there was no ticking sound but when I mounted the tire the ticking came back. I can't see the problem and can only hear it. It's very pronounced. Has anybody experienced this or would speculate about the problem?
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
Likes: 3,865
From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The biggest single cause of low speed rim ticking is small bits free to move around inside the rim. Often when rims are drilled, small chips fall into the rim. Makers shake them as best they can, and they fall out on their own if the rim has no eyelets. But if the maker doesn't get them all before installing the double eyelets, they're stuck there forever.
Some also don't shake out because they're still attached to the inside lip of the hole as large internal burrs. They'll stay in place for a while and eventually break off and cause rattles. The typical rattle caused by these only happens at low speeds, al they flop around like clothes in a front load washer. With higher speed, the wheel is in spin cycle and they're stuck in place on the outer wall.
Of course there might be something else going on, but if the wheel is aligned, and the braking in ever, indicating no variation in width, then just ride it and don't fret. If it really bothers you (it shouldn't) you can try to localize the area in the rim, and either see if you can work whatever it is down to the valve hole and out, or drill a small hole through the inner (sire) side of the rim, and inject a blob of grease or glue and try to trap it.
Some also don't shake out because they're still attached to the inside lip of the hole as large internal burrs. They'll stay in place for a while and eventually break off and cause rattles. The typical rattle caused by these only happens at low speeds, al they flop around like clothes in a front load washer. With higher speed, the wheel is in spin cycle and they're stuck in place on the outer wall.
Of course there might be something else going on, but if the wheel is aligned, and the braking in ever, indicating no variation in width, then just ride it and don't fret. If it really bothers you (it shouldn't) you can try to localize the area in the rim, and either see if you can work whatever it is down to the valve hole and out, or drill a small hole through the inner (sire) side of the rim, and inject a blob of grease or glue and try to trap it.
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Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 245
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From: Trenton On
Bikes: 2010 Cannondale T1, 1998 Specialized FSR
I have the same problem with my Mavic A719's. Don't worry about it. Centrifigal force takes care of it once you start moving. Mavic uses some bit of metal to align the rim ends during construction and that little chunk of metal can sometimes come free. My front rim ticks when I walk the bike and the back one doesn't. Feel free to ride. Al
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 7,579
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From: Pearland, Texas
Bikes: Cannondale, Trek, Raleigh, Santana
Frankfast, One of my CR18 rims had a piece of flashing come loose when they were new. The rattling was just too much to take and while it took more time than I wished, the little bit fell out. I also lucked out once removing a piece of welding rod from the RHS chainstay through the rear derailleur cable stop's screw hole. That happened on my first try and I was amazed as it usually takes longer to remove a pick from a flat top hollow body!
I didn't have to with the rim, but plan two was a shop vac.
Brad
I didn't have to with the rim, but plan two was a shop vac.
Brad
#7
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 481
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From: New York and San Juan
Bikes: Kestrel Talon SL, Surly Steamroller, Equipe SS/FG Beater
I have the same problem with my Mavic A719's. Don't worry about it. Centrifigal force takes care of it once you start moving. Mavic uses some bit of metal to align the rim ends during construction and that little chunk of metal can sometimes come free. My front rim ticks when I walk the bike and the back one doesn't. Feel free to ride. Al
#8
I have the same problem with my Mavic A719's. Don't worry about it. Centrifigal force takes care of it once you start moving. Mavic uses some bit of metal to align the rim ends during construction and that little chunk of metal can sometimes come free. My front rim ticks when I walk the bike and the back one doesn't. Feel free to ride. Al
Another option is to support the rim on the edge of a 2 x 4, then peen the rim bed with a blunt nail. You'll probably see Mavic's own peening marks, in fact. It may take a pretty substantial divot to immobilize the slug this way; I'd rather use the expando-foam if it were me.






