Dragging Brake Pad
#1
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vasbear
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 23
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From: Poquoson VA
Bikes: Schwinn Avenue
Dragging Brake Pad
Schwinn Avenue Hybrid with V pull brakes and the rear caliper is driving e nuts, the pad on the arm with pinch bolt keeps dragging, I have loosened 5MM pinch bolt, and allowed arms to open fully, then squeezed arms together to just shy of rim and tightened the 5MM bolt and it looks good, however I go for a ride, brake once and the pad on the 5MM bolt side is again dragging. As we say down South, I need HEP!
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Most V-brakes have a small return spring tensioning bolt at the base of each arm. Tighten it on the dragging side and loosen it on the open side to balance the brake arms.
#3
Thread Starter
vasbear
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Poquoson VA
Bikes: Schwinn Avenue
After using all adjustments I could think of I went to Occam's Razor and lubricated the pivot points on the brake caliper arms and Voila, the arms sprung away and all is now well. am getting older but no wiser.
#4
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vasbear
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 23
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From: Poquoson VA
Bikes: Schwinn Avenue
Well that did not go well, I can loosen cable, push calipers together and retighten the bolt and all is well until I brake and then one of the arms does not spring back so I am guessing that I need to tighten the spring tension )spring on back of caliper arm) do I do both or just the one that is not springing back?
#5
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
What do you mean -- no wiser? You can add "step one- lube pivots, before balancing" to your accumulated body of knowledge.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
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From: Melbourne, Oz
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
On cheap V-brakes, sometimes the base of the spring doesn't go into the brake boss, but into a plastic collar with a little peg that goes into the boss. If you have this kind, you might be screwed.
Take the arms off and give them a clean and figure them out; they're pretty basic. You'll prolly see three holes for the spring in the brake boss, which should help. If all else fails, just tweak the spring.
Or start by tweaking the spring, if you're lazy.
Take the arms off and give them a clean and figure them out; they're pretty basic. You'll prolly see three holes for the spring in the brake boss, which should help. If all else fails, just tweak the spring.
Or start by tweaking the spring, if you're lazy.
#8
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: New York City
Check your cable routing also, V-brakes tend to get a lot of friction when going around tight loops and don't releasing well because of the cable friction. Had to figure that out after 6 months of screwing around with spring tensions and even swapping brakes.
#9
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From: Beaufort, South Carolina, USA and surrounding islands.
Bikes: Cannondale R500, Motobecane Messenger
#12
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From: Beaufort, South Carolina, USA and surrounding islands.
Bikes: Cannondale R500, Motobecane Messenger
I've also had the experience of a brake boss being a little too big and having to grind it down with emery cloth.
#13
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Joined: Apr 2011
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Bikes: CCM Torino 76
WAIT! VABEAR! Before you try to adjust your brakes or fix anything, make sure your wheel is fully seated int he dropouts. I would guess this the cause of 90% of calls to LBSs complaining about off-centre brakes or dragging pads.
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