lacquer paint over oil-based primer?
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lacquer paint over oil-based primer?
I started painting my bike. Everything is stripped and I used an oil-based primer. I have three coats on now and it just dawned on me: is it okay to use a lacquer paint over oil-based primer?
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I'm no paint specialist. However, in my experience, lacquer is (chemically) a "hotter" paint than enamel. Thus, you could have issues with adhesion, crazing, or melting effect.
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Lacquer is not a good paint for a bicycle because it is so soft when it dries. Lacquer was popular in the 40's and 50's as an automotive paint, but for best results, each coat had to be rubbed out before the next coat was applied.
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You cannot use lacquer over anything but lacquer. Lacquer uses lacquer thinner which is a solvent that will soften almost any other type paint. You can only use lacquer over a lacquer primer or a prior coat of lacquer.
Lacquer is not a good paint for a bicycle because it is so soft when it dries. Lacquer was popular in the 40's and 50's as an automotive paint, but for best results, each coat had to be rubbed out before the next coat was applied.
Lacquer is not a good paint for a bicycle because it is so soft when it dries. Lacquer was popular in the 40's and 50's as an automotive paint, but for best results, each coat had to be rubbed out before the next coat was applied.
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You cannot use lacquer over anything but lacquer. Lacquer uses lacquer thinner which is a solvent that will soften almost any other type paint. You can only use lacquer over a lacquer primer or a prior coat of lacquer.
Lacquer is not a good paint for a bicycle because it is so soft when it dries. Lacquer was popular in the 40's and 50's as an automotive paint, but for best results, each coat had to be rubbed out before the next coat was applied.
Lacquer is not a good paint for a bicycle because it is so soft when it dries. Lacquer was popular in the 40's and 50's as an automotive paint, but for best results, each coat had to be rubbed out before the next coat was applied.
Lacquer is brittle and easily damaged, but it was the mot popular automotive paint well into the 70's, and used for most auto repair work long after that. It does not need to be "rubbed out" between coats, but does require fine-grit sanding and buffing after painting.
The best choice in modern paint is a catalyzed urethane. It can be had in a spray can, but once the catalyst is released into the can, it has a very limted life. Special resperatory protection should be used. A number of companies sell kits for small paint jobs, but most require an air compressor and a spray gun.
https://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm
If the bike is an old one that's not of great value and just needs to look decent, it could be painted with the same type of paint it was primed with. About the only oil-based paint in a spray can is Rustoleum. Enamel is also easily damaged.
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Terry I wouldnt use laquer paint over that primer. I do have to agree with the other guys..
What puzzles me is what brand of primer did you use?? House paint primer???
You have to paint the bike with car paint, is the only thing hard enough for a bike, even if you use laquer, depending on the brand the paint chips really easy compared with polyurethane car paint.
Primer... u-pol #5 high built primer in aerosol, just sand the surface with steel wool and put this primer. Is car grade primer. The next stuff is to use acrylic primer and that thing is too expensive.
Paint... go to your car paint supplier from the area and get a pint of the color you want, look at the chips and tell the guy you want "base coat-clear coat"... or go to the internet and pick a car color you lke, find the color code and give it to the guy. The stores have color chips. Get the cheapest paint they have, you don't need to spend 200 bucks in paint. A pint is about 20 bucks depending on the color.
Get a quarter of thinner (they call it reducer) for that paint, some brands have quarts, other brands have gallons, dunno your budget, you need to reduce (thin) the paint maybe 2:1 so with a pint you will get like a quart of paint that is more than enough for a bike, in a matter of fact you can paint like 3 bikes with that.
Clear,,, u-pol has a clear in a can, that wont turn yellow, dont use lacquer clear over car paint or it will melt the paint big time, even if it doesnt do it it will soft it and even if doesnt do that sure will turn yellow quite quick.
Second option for clear is a 2k clear in a can, good stuff, ask the guy about it, if they dont have any thing but regular clear coat try to get nason 496 clear coat, that comes in quarts and nason 483-78 activator (u need to get the activator). The clear and the activator is around 50 bucks... find the quart can ok? some guys have only the gallon and the gallon alone is like 120 bucks or more.. and at that point unless you paint more stuff will be waste of money.
Get a good MASK, the clear is nasty toxic.
Hope you have a gun, if not get 3 units of preval sprayers, that will do your life easier, test in a wall or a piece of plastic tube 1st...read the instructions of the cans.
If you did all right in 2 days you will be riding the bike.
Good luck.
ps: you can paint the base coat (color paint) w/o activator... the clear needs the activator, ok?
What puzzles me is what brand of primer did you use?? House paint primer???
You have to paint the bike with car paint, is the only thing hard enough for a bike, even if you use laquer, depending on the brand the paint chips really easy compared with polyurethane car paint.
Primer... u-pol #5 high built primer in aerosol, just sand the surface with steel wool and put this primer. Is car grade primer. The next stuff is to use acrylic primer and that thing is too expensive.
Paint... go to your car paint supplier from the area and get a pint of the color you want, look at the chips and tell the guy you want "base coat-clear coat"... or go to the internet and pick a car color you lke, find the color code and give it to the guy. The stores have color chips. Get the cheapest paint they have, you don't need to spend 200 bucks in paint. A pint is about 20 bucks depending on the color.
Get a quarter of thinner (they call it reducer) for that paint, some brands have quarts, other brands have gallons, dunno your budget, you need to reduce (thin) the paint maybe 2:1 so with a pint you will get like a quart of paint that is more than enough for a bike, in a matter of fact you can paint like 3 bikes with that.
Clear,,, u-pol has a clear in a can, that wont turn yellow, dont use lacquer clear over car paint or it will melt the paint big time, even if it doesnt do it it will soft it and even if doesnt do that sure will turn yellow quite quick.
Second option for clear is a 2k clear in a can, good stuff, ask the guy about it, if they dont have any thing but regular clear coat try to get nason 496 clear coat, that comes in quarts and nason 483-78 activator (u need to get the activator). The clear and the activator is around 50 bucks... find the quart can ok? some guys have only the gallon and the gallon alone is like 120 bucks or more.. and at that point unless you paint more stuff will be waste of money.
Get a good MASK, the clear is nasty toxic.
Hope you have a gun, if not get 3 units of preval sprayers, that will do your life easier, test in a wall or a piece of plastic tube 1st...read the instructions of the cans.
If you did all right in 2 days you will be riding the bike.
Good luck.
ps: you can paint the base coat (color paint) w/o activator... the clear needs the activator, ok?