thanks for all the ideas and suggestions folks, been of great help, last night when i went to sleep i actually felt somewhat desperate. i havenīt decided on what iīm going to do. think i will do some more homework for the moment and if i think itīs over my current experience (which is not too much), iīll just take it to the lbs and watch them doing it for me and ask in the process if something i donīt understand.

btw, iīve been waiting for a long time for the frameset since i seriously thought about getting it and actually paid a lot, $230 alone for the international shipping and customs and other taxes.

Given the cash you've paid and your relative lack of experience, go with the LBS plan. But I really don't think it would be a bad idea to learn to do this on your own, if you're so inclined. Watching is a fine idea, as is trying it out yourself on bike you don't have as much invested in. Buy a junker and learn some basic mechanics on it. Make sure it's your size, you can use it as a beater. That way, you can get your learning curve out of the way on something a bit cheaper.

It's really not that hard to do most bike mechanics stuff, headset installation included. Try the threaded rod method, it's easier than the hammer/block of wood path
yet cheaper than a HS press.

I started some time ago on cheap equipment and admit to hammer and block in those days. If your aim is to learn bicycle mechanics, then starting on cheaper equipment and slowly acquiring the tools you discover are essential is the way to go. As I migrated to more expensive equipment (greater risk from mistakes), I also began justifying more expensive tools. If all this is very new to you and it is expensive (relative to you), then LBS all the way. If you are motivated to learn this, get the tools and try it out on a cheap frame first.

just my opinion.

dbg

I want to build one of those badly, but can't find a bolt long enough to work with in the area. Driving me nuts. I'm gonna end up having to pay some mech to do the work when the hometool that works really well (I used one previously) costs 10$ tops. Arg...

If you can't find a bolt,use threaded rod.

Yeah I have been trying to find one. Finally did tday actually. Pretty thin, I hope it works out.

There is more to installing a headset than just getting the cups into the ends of the head tube.

The whole idea here is to use an assy. method that will assure the two bearing races will end up parallel and concentric within a very close tolerance. This is why reaming and facing is recommended.

If the prep is done properly the cups can be tapped into place (I am not recommending this, just acknowledging that it has been done successfully) or pushed in if the cups are cooled sufficiently.

The only way to assure that the races are positioned perfectly is to press them in using a tool that holds them concentric and parallel position as they are inserted into the head tube.

I know that even in many LBS these expedited methods are used with some degree of success but we all also know that there are many bikes out there that are constantly needing headset adjustments and tightening which is a symptom of poor headset seating.

I thought I would give an update as I completed my first headset installation yesterday with the help of my home made press. It took me a couple tries to make the cups go straight and found that it is easier if the washers contact the inner lip of the headset cups instead of the external lip. I had to take the cups out a couple of times so needed the home made extractor made of PVC pipe. To make the press contact the internal lip I just bought some extra washers of the right size at Home Depot. I tried again to find copper bushings that are supposedly softer than the steal washers but could not find any that seem to fit right and would press perperndicular to the cup's lips so went with the washers. All in all I recommend you guys to try this method as it is cheap and works if you have the patience to not force it.

It may take a couple tries as you say to start the cups in straight but large oversized washers with a THICK bolt have always worked for me. I don't see how a smaller washer inside the lip would make any difference......besides I would be afraid that a smaller washer may gouge or deform the inner lip.

It did not affect the inner lips at all and my thinking was that if you push at the inner lips you are starting the pressure already further into the headset tube, making it more difficult for the heaset to turn to one side. This may be just BS but it seemed to work better. I don't know maybe it had nothing to do with where the washers were pressing and I just got a better feel of it by the time I was pressing at the inner lips.

I see the principle behind it. Having the smaller washer inside the cup basically centers the bolt and prevents lateral movement of the tool while tightening the nut. Now this makes sense. That is one reason I why chose the thickest bolt I can find to minimize this movement. But I think I will experiment with bronze or copper bushing for my next install. Thanks.

1. Do not attempt to cut the steerer tube after drinking more than 1 beer. Measure twice cut once, don't drink beer in between. Trust me. I learned this one the hard way.
2. Do not smash in the cups with a piece of 2x4 and a rubber mallet. I did it for years. I never had a problem. It was just a matter of luck I never deformed a headtube and ruined a frame. I bought a Park headset press last year and cannot believe how well it works.

I installed an FSA Orbit headset onto the Surly 1x1 just this weekend. Whole process took me about an hour.

Used the threaded rod and big arse washers routine for the bottom cup. Happen to have a brass pipe fitting kicking about that I used to actually push against the cup. Should note here that the particular Orbit headset was a cartridge bearing setup.

Used a large deadblow hammer and a block of wood on the top cup. Followed that up with the threaded rod routine again to really seat both cups.

Crown race was a split ring assembly, a three year old could do that one.

Installed the fork and stem without using the star-fangle. Just pressed down on the stem to the point I could tighten things up. Rode about for a while till I was satisified with the stackup, took some measurements, disassembled and cut the tube.

Cutting the tube was accomplished with hacksaw and pipe clamp. Turned out slightly out of square (maybe 0.02"), this could have been alleviated by rotating the fork in the vise. Cleaned it up with a angle grinder.

Installed the star nut by threading it onto a longer bolt and smacking it into the tube with the aforemention deadblow hammer. The longer bolt gave me the leverage to pull the nut back to vertical.

I installed a Cane Creek S-2 headset into my alu framed SS two weeks ago with a Park press. Time- 10 minutes. Maybe. Nashbar has a press that appears to be the same thing as the Park. It's like $75. This is the one tool I wish I had invested in from the beginning. $75 is cheap insurance against deforming a head tube on a $1200 or more frame. I have also tried the bolt and washer approach mentioned above. I even put rubber washers to protect the cups. I found it easier to bang 'em in with the 2x4 and mallet approach.

Has anyone tried one of these?

EDIT---> Just checked shipping price. Slightly high!!! Still if a person could find one without the high shipping......

Eh, it's my favourite tool.

No, wait, that's a mallet

I like the motto "To protect and serve" especially if it means protecting someone from destroying thier own bike. Attitude is NOT replying and letting someone install precision parts with a hammer then saying "you should have taken it to a LBS".
I do not work at a LBS. If you want to learn how to do something I am always happy to teach. But there are clearly some things that whould not be attempted without research and training.

now after serious consideration i think iīll go with the LBS plan. think i still have a long way to go.

Smart decision.
I think most of us D.I.Y. tinkerers like myself on these forums acquired knowledge simply from tinkering and tearing apart bikes as kids. And in most cases not only bikes.... That's one reason some of us are also successful using 'unconventional' methods from time to time.

wow. ahem. ok.

EVERY single bike forum i've ever visited has one of these threads at one time or another, sometimes several in a week. odd. impressive.

dave (installer of his own headsets with the piece of soft wood/shop rag/rubber mallet method. and sometimes the flat of a 36mm headset wrench padded up with shop rags, and a small hammer. with never a manked HS in about 10 years of "rolling my own" so to speak., it works for me. oh, and i've used the big @ss bolt and large washer method in the past, too. gotta make a new one of those though. the BABALW method. i like it.)

I installed the headset in my GT this weekend using the washer/bolt method, one cup at a time. Piece of cake. About $3 at Home Depot. It doesn't get any easier.

I am surprised nobody mentioned the trick of putting the bearing cups in the freezer the night before...they push in so much easier.
George

Would you care to spec the items that you purchased? Size, description, etc. Pics?

George:

That freezer trick really work? Thanks for the tip! Just had an old headset punched out and a new one installed for $10 at the LBS. Figure I don't do it enough to justify the tools or the chance of messing it up, plus I reckon the $10 pays the two cool shop dogs food bill.

Cheers, "Cappy".

Ranger,
Look at Fixer's post on the previous page. Seems to me it's a 5/8 x 7 inch bolt and nut. Make sure the washers are larger diameter than the bearing cup.