yeah brother...works great in fact for all bushings. What you want to do is create as much of a temperature differential as you can. Locally heating the steerer tube with a heat gun...not too hot to spoil the paint...and using the freezer trick for the races works very well and really reduces press in loads. I never pound in anything. A cheap homemade threaded rod as mentioned works great. Can use a monster C clamp on shorter steerers. I use wood as a shim both top and bottom. One at a time..not both together. If the wood cracks no foul. I don't like metal to metal interfaces when pushing on bearing surfaces. Keeping the races orthogonal to the steerer tube while pressing is key. As stated above, a large bolt will help keep everything cylindrical.
HTH,
George

Reminds me of the days taking off stuck brake drums by heating them up with a torch first. I reckon putting them in isn't too bad. My problem was getting the old cups out without the proper tool. Didn't want to hack up the inside of the headtube with a flathead screwdriver.

Now about facing bottom brackets... shouldn't the frame come "pre-faced"? It certainly can't get out of true from riding. Personally, I've replaced a few and never did anything except screw in the new one.

Some do.Most don't.Cartridge BB make it less critical. Never messed with one myself....no problems.

depends on how particular you want to be as to being pre-faced and honed. Squareness and proper I.D. is pretty easy to check. I would never push out a race with a screw driver....but no doubt many do.
George

Used the heat trick building engines for years. Piston pin in the reefer and lightly heat the crown of the piston. Just a push fit .