Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Help installing new headset ... what does the top of a fork usually look like?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Help installing new headset ... what does the top of a fork usually look like?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-12-12, 12:30 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 936
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Help installing new headset ... what does the top of a fork usually look like?

So, it's my understanding that the top of a road fork usually resembles this (complete flat where it meets the steerer):

https://www.sjscycles.com/supersize/26862.jpg

I am trying to replace the headset on my Cannondale slice fork. The old system is a loose bearing headset. Below the bottom race, on top of the fork, is a silver metal cap. The new (sealed) headset appears to want to drop flat onto the fork, but the cap is preventing that. Is the cap part of the fork? Or is it stuck/fused to the fork? I've tried to lightly pry it up, but so far it won't budge. I don't want to force it without some advice.
lineinthewater is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 12:38 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,724

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5790 Post(s)
Liked 2,581 Times in 1,431 Posts
I assume you have a threadless headset. The normal arrangement is a plain unthreaded steerer that ends short of the top of the stem and spacer stack by 2-3mm so that the top cap can push down on the stack to compress the headset. Since nothing ever touches the actual end of the fork, it doesn't need a perfect cut.

If your fork came with a top cap, you need to remove it to install. Here are pictures of typical headset parts in sequence you can use for guidance, but if you've never done this there are plenty of tutorials available. Search "installing bicycle headset" to find them and review a few until the light goes on.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

Last edited by FBinNY; 12-12-12 at 12:54 PM.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 12:42 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 936
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by FBinNY
I assume you have a threadless headset. The normal arrangement is a plain unthreaded steerer that ends short of the top of the stem and spacer stack by 2-3mm so that the top cap can push down on the stack to compress the headset. Since nothing ever touches the actual end of the fork, it doesn't need a perfect cut.

If your fork came with a top cap, you need to remove it to install. Here are pictures of typical headset parts in sequence you can use for guidance, but if you've never done this there are plenty of tutorials available. Search "installing bicycle headset" to find them and review a few until the light goes on.
Your link goes to the wikipedia on Butyl rubber. lol

Yes, it sounds like the top cap needs to be removed. It's below the crown race.
lineinthewater is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 12:56 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,724

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5790 Post(s)
Liked 2,581 Times in 1,431 Posts
Originally Posted by lineinthewater
Your link goes to the wikipedia on Butyl rubber. lol

Yes, it sounds like the top cap needs to be removed. It's below the crown race.
I fixed the link, but I'm confused. How on earth is it possible for the top cap to be below the crown race? Check the updated link, review some tutorials and make sure you understand how this works before going farther.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 01:00 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 936
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by FBinNY
I fixed the link, but I'm confused. How on earth is it possible for the top cap to be below the crown race? Check the updated link, review some tutorials and make sure you understand how this works before going farther.
My terminology is off. I should take a pic. I have removed the fork from the frame. I have removed all the bearings. All that remains is the fork, and what appears to be a piece of metal (that the crown race was previously on top of). The metal piece appears to be stuck to the fork, unless I'm totally wrong and it's actually part of the fork.

It appears it is a two-part crown race - with the part that rides on the bearings separate from the part that mates to the fork. Is this correct? The new headset appears to have one piece that both rides on the bearing AND mates to a FLAT fork surface.
lineinthewater is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 01:09 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,724

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5790 Post(s)
Liked 2,581 Times in 1,431 Posts
Originally Posted by lineinthewater
My terminology is off. I should take a pic. I have removed the fork from the frame. I have removed all the bearings. All that remains is the fork, and what appears to be a piece of metal (that the crown race was previously on top of). The metal piece appears to be stuck to the fork, unless I'm totally wrong and it's actually part of the fork.

It appears it is a two-part crown race - with the part that rides on the bearings separate from the part that mates to the fork. Is this correct? The new headset appears to have one piece that both rides on the bearing AND mates to a FLAT fork surface.
Yes, there's a crown race seat, which is usually (but not always) one with the fork. Crown race is a press fit onto the seat.

While that is the normal system, there are variations. For example some sealed bearing headsets don't use a press on crown race, but instead have a split cone, which engages the lower bearing race and compresses onto the fork, the same way the top centering cone does.

If you're unsure, a photo will help, but you should be able to dope it out if you review a few tutorials.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 01:11 PM
  #7  
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,790

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3590 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times in 1,934 Posts
Pictures would be extremely helpful. Failing that, take the fork to your LBS for them to sort out.
JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 01:12 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 936
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by FBinNY
Yes, there's a crown race seat, which is usually (but not always) one with the fork. Crown race is a press fit onto the seat.

While that is the normal system, there are variations. For example some sealed bearing headsets don't use a press on crown race, but instead have a split cone, which engages the lower bearing race and compresses onto the fork, the same way the top centering cone does.

If you're unsure, a photo will help, but you should be able to dope it out if you review a few tutorials.
Yes, thank you for naming it - crown race seat. Should I have purchased the exact same loose-bearing headset model, so as to not have to replace/remove the crown race seat?
lineinthewater is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 01:13 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 936
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
Pictures would be extremely helpful. Failing that, take the fork to your LBS for them to sort out.
Working on it. One minute.
lineinthewater is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 01:18 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 936
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Here we go:

https://i241.photobucket.com/albums/f...Water/fork.jpg
lineinthewater is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 01:30 PM
  #11  
Goes to 11.
 
striknein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wichita, KS, USA
Posts: 2,547

Bikes: 2015 Soma Double Cross

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
That's the crown race. It most likely needs to be removed and replaced with the one provided with your new headset.
striknein is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 02:46 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 936
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by striknein
That's the crown race. It most likely needs to be removed and replaced with the one provided with your new headset.
How do I make sure it is removable before proceeding? Is there a special tool to do it, or do you have to just pry it up?
lineinthewater is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 03:10 PM
  #13  
Goes to 11.
 
striknein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wichita, KS, USA
Posts: 2,547

Bikes: 2015 Soma Double Cross

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
There is a special puller that is made to remove the crown race without dinging up the fork. Given the oversized fork crown, you'll have a difficult time removing it using brute force. I'd recommend taking it to your LBS.
striknein is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 03:11 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,724

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5790 Post(s)
Liked 2,581 Times in 1,431 Posts
Originally Posted by lineinthewater
How do I make sure it is removable before proceeding? Is there a special tool to do it, or do you have to just pry it up?
READ SOME TUTORIALS until you understand the whole picture. Doing it piecemeal this way, by asking questions, can get you into trouble, because you have no of knowing what you don't know.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 03:33 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 936
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by FBinNY
READ SOME TUTORIALS until you understand the whole picture. Doing it piecemeal this way, by asking questions, can get you into trouble, because you have no of knowing what you don't know.
I don't understand how I'm doing it piecemeal? I have a very specific question, with a specific picture. I understood how it all went together BEFORE I posted this thread, as I had replaced the (loose) ball bearings several times. My terminology may have been off, and you may have misinterpreted my problem because of it, but the issue is very specific (and has been since the beginning of this thread): does the crown race seat come off my fork? If so, how?
lineinthewater is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 03:42 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,724

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5790 Post(s)
Liked 2,581 Times in 1,431 Posts
Originally Posted by lineinthewater
I don't understand how I'm doing it piecemeal? I have a very specific question, with a specific picture. I understood how it all went together BEFORE I posted this thread, as I had replaced the (loose) ball bearings several times. My terminology may have been off, and you may have misinterpreted my problem because of it, but the issue is very specific (and has been since the beginning of this thread): does the crown race seat come off my fork? If so, how?
I see. You posted the second photo after we started the dialog. Yes, the crown does come off, and lucky for you you can het under the edge to get it started. Improvise a mini crow bar and pry it up by degrees, until you can set a punch behind it off and tap it up the rest of the way.

There is a tool made for the job, but it's very pricey ($100+). But most shops have the tool, so if you're afraid of maring the seat area on the fork, you can let a shop do it. Should cost $10.00 or less.

fb
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 03:47 PM
  #17  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 936
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by FBinNY
I see. You posted the second photo after we started the dialog. Yes, the crown does come off, and lucky for you you can het under the edge to get it started. Improvise a mini crow bar and pry it up by degrees, until you can set a punch behind it off and tap it up the rest of the way.

There is a tool made for the job, but it's very pricey ($100+). But most shops have the tool, so if you're afraid of maring the seat area on the fork, you can let a shop do it. Should cost $10.00 or less.

fb
Thanks for following up with detailed info. How can you tell this crown race seat is actually removable (for my education)?

Does the new crown race seat (for the new headset) need a special tool to press it onto the fork?
lineinthewater is offline  
Old 12-12-12, 04:08 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,724

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5790 Post(s)
Liked 2,581 Times in 1,431 Posts
Originally Posted by lineinthewater
Thanks for following up with detailed info. How can you tell this crown race seat is actually removable (for my education)?

Does the new crown race seat (for the new headset) need a special tool to press it onto the fork?
The crown race seat is the part of the fork that the race presses onto. The seat is the precise diameter base of the steerer, usually about 5/16" tall, and the machined flat area the crown race bottoms to. The crown race itself is the hardened steel bottom race of the headset, and specific to each headset.

As I posted earlier, sealed bearing headsets don't use a crown race per se, since that's part of the bearing. Instead they have a locating cone, that has to be pressed on just like a regular race would be. However since it isn't actually part of the bearing, some makers capitalize on that and make a split one, that works the same way as the centering cone at the top of a threadless headset.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
asiantrick
Road Cycling
14
09-08-17 02:49 PM
Flipmasterj
Bicycle Mechanics
4
07-18-13 04:25 PM
Ttime
Bicycle Mechanics
6
04-09-13 12:28 PM
insub2
Bicycle Mechanics
10
05-17-10 02:53 PM
scattered73
Bicycle Mechanics
10
03-05-10 12:21 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.