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Putting on 16 and 20 spokes road hub/freehub with 32 or 36 holes road/CX rims

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Putting on 16 and 20 spokes road hub/freehub with 32 or 36 holes road/CX rims

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Old 12-13-12, 09:16 PM
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Putting on 16 and 20 spokes road hub/freehub with 32 or 36 holes road/CX rims

Dear all,

I'm kind a get an idea of joining my road hub/freehub with their 16 and 20 spokes respectively with 32 or 36 cyclo cross rims. Why do I wanna do that ? it's because the rims especially the rear one of my current road wheelset has been seen to wear out but fortunately their hub, freehub and spokes still work very fine. It's kind a sad story if I have to put my wheel to rest only due to the unavailability of identical replacement rims (rims with the same amount of holes) that's where my idea come from. It's kind a impossible to get that type of replacement at my LBS's.

So has anybody ever had similar idea as mine and make it to reality ? or does anybody have suggestions why I should or should not do that ?

Please enlighten me

Thx

Huka
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Old 12-13-12, 09:48 PM
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No. In general, rims built for low spoke counts are much taller and beefier than rims built for higher spoke counts. You might get away with lacing a 16 hole hub to a 32 hole Velocity Deep-V (for instance), but lacing a 20-hole hub to a 36-hole rim is a job for an expert wheelbuilder. You'll need many different spoke lengths to make it work- I'm sure there's some sort of program out there to calculate all of the lengths, but it's a job I would only try on a dare.
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Old 12-13-12, 10:23 PM
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+1

If you use light rims meant for lots of spokes, you'll be in trouble. The 36/20 combo doesn't sound good either, I have no idea how you'd do that. Now if you had a 40 hole rim you might be able to do it.

I had a 16/20 spoke Velocity Deep V wheelset and it actually seemed pretty strong, so that's an option if you can order the rims somehow.
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Old 12-13-12, 11:12 PM
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Velocity's much lighter Aerohead is available down to 18h, and I'm running a cheap box-section Araya 36h on the front with half the spokes removed...

IMO front wheels are under a lot less stress than rears, so you can make em a fair bit weaker if you're a light rider.
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Old 12-18-12, 10:05 PM
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Thx Jeff n Jake for your suggestions also Kimmo for information
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Old 12-19-12, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by hukapits
Dear all, I'm kind a get an idea of joining my road hub/freehub with their 16 and 20 spokes respectively with 32 or 36 cyclo cross rims. Why do I wanna do that ? it's because the rims especially the rear one of my current road wheelset has been seen to wear out but fortunately their hub, freehub and spokes still work very fine. It's kind a sad story if I have to put my wheel to rest only due to the unavailability of identical replacement rims (rims with the same amount of holes) that's where my idea come from. It's kind a impossible to get that type of replacement at my LBS's. So has anybody ever had similar idea as mine and make it to reality ? or does anybody have suggestions why I should or should not do that ? Please enlighten me Thx Huka
Many issues others have and will continue to offer advice on as to why you shouldn't do this. If you are going to do it anyway, you might have better luck with a 20 spoke hub if you use a 40 spoke tandem rim. I still wouldn't recommend it except in the scenario that you are 200 miles out in boonies in a cabin with a broken wheel and the cabin just happens to have a spare 40 hole rim, spoke tools, and an assortment of spokes... then I would make an effort of getting back to the residence or LBS or something like that.

Hope that helps
K
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Old 12-19-12, 12:47 PM
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indeed. those low spoke count wheels have a LOT more tension on each spoke. you might even rip the inserts out of a high spoke count rim as the individual spokes on a 32/36/40H carry a lot less tension than those on a 16/20h
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Old 12-20-12, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by hukapits
..the rims especially the rear one of my current road wheelset has been seen to wear out
Slightly off-topic to the thread, but if you're wearing through the brake track on the rear rim first on a road bike, you really should review your braking strategy and bike handling skills.

On a MTB, or a winter commuter, sure. Slippery surfaces do prompt more rear brake use. But on a road bike?
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Old 12-20-12, 08:14 AM
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You can skip spokes in the hub all you want but i wouldnt recommend do it with the rims specially because at that low count rims are at least 25 to 35 mm tall...
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Old 12-20-12, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dabac
Slightly off-topic to the thread, but if you're wearing through the brake track on the rear rim first on a road bike, you really should review your braking strategy and bike handling skills. On a MTB, or a winter commuter, sure. Slippery surfaces do prompt more rear brake use. But on a road bike?
+2 for bring it up... I was kinda hoping the thread would go away before we got to it.
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Old 12-20-12, 04:19 PM
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20 spoke rims from QBP (the commonest parts catalog most any bike shop can order from...). last field on each line is the QBP catalog number.

DT Swiss RR585 - black - RM1843
Enve Composites - 45 Clincher - RM0540
Enve Composites - 68 Clincher - RM0560
H+Son - SL42 - black - RM4378
Zipp 111(101) - alloy - RM7951
Zipp X44 (303 Firecrest) - carbon - RM7953
Zipp X56... lots more Zipp's.

16 spoke rims...
can only find Zipp. see page 698 of the 2012 QBP Catalog.
https://viewer.zmags.com/publication/...#/a8e5bd2a/698


there's another consideration here. low spoke count wheels require VERY high spoke tension, and are not something the average bike shop is prepared to deal with. I know I sure wouldn't want to be replacing a 20 or 16 spoke rim.
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Old 01-01-13, 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by pierce
there's another consideration here. low spoke count wheels require VERY high spoke tension, and are not something the average bike shop is prepared to deal with. I know I sure wouldn't want to be replacing a 20 or 16 spoke rim.
+1

I rebuilt a 20-spoke, which called for tensions in the 140-160 kg range. Puts you in the realm where it's prudent to off-load the the spoke being tensioned by pushing the rim sideways before turning the nipple. Not all trueing stands will be up to that.
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