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Frozen freehub.

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Old 01-22-13 | 09:08 AM
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Frozen freehub.

Hello everyone.

Yesterday was my coldest commute so far at -20 celcius and after 5-6 kms my freehub froze. It's a 22-23 years old bike/wheel/freehub that works very fine when the temp is warmer. If found out how to clean and lub a freewheel on the Seldon Brown website but I didn't see anything about a freehub. Is there a way to do it? I removed the cassette this morning but I can't see how to remove the freehub.

I know that I would be better with a fixed gear but I can't afford it right now so I have to make this work.
I think that if I could just remove the 22-23 year old grease/gum in there I wouldn't freeze anymore.

Thanks
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Old 01-22-13 | 09:16 AM
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Take a look at the link below, then let us know if there are any other questions.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...reehub-service
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Old 01-22-13 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Ranman
Take a look at the link below, then let us know if there are any other questions.

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...reehub-service
I didn't know that parktool was giving technical advices. There's all I wanted to know in there

Thank tou very very much for the link.
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Old 01-22-13 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dramiscram
I didn't know that parktool was giving technical advices. There's all I wanted to know in there
Yep, clever way to sell more of their tools if you think about it.
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Old 01-22-13 | 12:10 PM
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Somebody wanted to know how to turn their freehub into a fixie, so maybe you 2 can trade.
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Old 01-22-13 | 12:55 PM
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at -20C it's possible that the freehub simply froze, in the sense that the lubricant inside got too stiff and bound the mechanism. Did you bring it inside to thaw. If so, that may be all that's needed.

OTOH, if the mechanism is still locked up try forcing it backward with the wheel out, and if you can get it to spin even slowly, odds are that your winter commuting allowed water inside and you have some rust or die related issues. Flushing often helps, but the method depends on the freehub. Some have holes in the side under the cassette where you can introduce solvent or oil. Others have ports in the end cap (not sure if any of these are still made), and yet others are almost impossible to flush while still attached. Those can be removed, and soaked in kerosene or diesel fuel (#2 heating fuel) , then drained and oiled. For the type of winter riding you're doing, I suggest a light Synthetic which won't overly thicken in the cold. Mobile 1 is a good choice, though when it warms up you'll want something thicker.
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Old 01-22-13 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
at -20C it's possible that the freehub simply froze, in the sense that the lubricant inside got too stiff and bound the mechanism. Did you bring it inside to thaw. If so, that may be all that's needed.
.
It froze yesterday morning, I parked the bike inside at work (as always) and it was okay when I left work last night but froze again after 13-14 kms. I parked the bike in my garage (as always) and an hour later it was ok.

I took the wife's car this morning because the thermometer was at -22 c
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Old 01-22-13 | 03:42 PM
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grease turns to wax at those temperatures.
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Old 01-22-13 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by dramiscram
It froze yesterday morning, I parked the bike inside at work (as always) and it was okay when I left work last night but froze again after 13-14 kms. I parked the bike in my garage (as always) and an hour later it was ok.

I took the wife's car this morning because the thermometer was at -22 c
two possibilities.

1- it's simply that the grease is hardening, but usually that sticks the pawls in the retracted position causing it to freewheel in both directions.

2- there's water inside, which is freezing solid. This might be OK if you can live with it, but is not good for the freehub which will rust out. It's a common problem for year round riders. The remedy is to flush with alcohol (methanol, or fuel alcohol (aka fondue fuel) is best) which will absorb water and carry it out. Once the water is flished out lubricate with a synthetic oil because it won't thicken as much in the cold as mineral oil does.

BTW- if you're not sure, put the wheel outside tonight. In the morning try to spin the freewheel backward, Use a chain whip if you have or a Channellock plier for leverage. If it's frozen solid that's water. If it simply becomes super sticky or sluggish it's oil or grease thickening. Only water freezes solid, grease and oil get stiff but not solid.
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Old 01-22-13 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
BTW- if you're not sure, put the wheel outside tonight. In the morning try to spin the freewheel backward, Use a chain whip if you have or a Channellock plier for leverage. If it's frozen solid that's water. If it simply becomes super sticky or sluggish it's oil or grease thickening. Only water freezes solid, grease and oil get stiff but not solid.
From what it did yesterday I'm pretty sure it's grease thickening. I let the wheel outside this morning so I will know for sure tonight when I get home. I will clean and lub everything anyway I guess...
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Old 01-23-13 | 05:37 AM
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With the infos provided by Parktools I managed to clean and lub this thing. It's making that clicking noise again, I never noticed but it wasn't clicking anymore. A lot of grimme came out of it. The wheel spent the night outside at -32 celcius and it's working fine this morning.
Thank you all.
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Old 01-23-13 | 07:09 AM
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From: La Prairie, Qc, Canada

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I turned around after 4 kms: this morning it's my wheel bearing that are squeaking like hell, at -32celcius I think the grease is just to thick. I'll wait for my wife (she works night shift at the hospital) and take her car again.

The positive side is that after 8kms at -32c my freehub was working very very well.
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