Hi,

I've been maintaining my chain and drivetrain with a can of
the above stuff, simply because I've got a new bike and
said can has been on the shelf doing nothing for years.

Seems to work well, there are no signs of rust, and when
applied it sounds well, (if that makes any sense to you).

Anything I might be missing ? - Though my mantra has
always been any form of lubrication is better than none.

rgds, sreten.

Well, in general, grease isn't runny enough to penetrate inside a chain, where lubrication is actually required, and will instead just sit on the outside of it, where despite providing protection from rust and eliminating noise, it will also collect dirt.

Also, if the bike had a new chain, the factory lubricant on chains is generally far better than any lube you can actually apply, so you generally don't need to do much chain maintenance for a while.

However, for lubricating bearings, bushings and threads, I'd imagine it would be pretty good. You could also use it as anti-sieze on seatposts and old-style stem quills (NOT stems for threadless headsets)

Other than it making more sense grammatically to say ...it sounds good, go for it - as long as you mean a spray can for the chain, like this:


If it's a tub of grease then the above post applies. We don't need another lubrication thread.

CNY-bikeman gave you solid advice. If it's working for you, stay with it. Obviously grease cannot wick into a chain, but if it's thinned with solvent to where it can be sprayed, it'll wick in, no problem and will thicken once inside. Wipe off excess and you'll be good to go.

Use these instead. The best chain lubricants I've ever used, but teflon makes them not environmentally friendly.



Edit: These are not like normal dry lubricants. They last more than 500miles in snowy winter.

I tried PJ-1 motorcycle chain lube once, and it was way too thick and goopy.

Well I tried molasses, thinking that it would be biodegradeable and that if I got stranded I could use it to sustain me for a little time, but flies kept getting stuck to it. Then I tried dipping in heated olive oil (again biodegradeable and edible) and it actually worked for a while, but I kept thinking of Italian food, which of course requires wine, and it's not good to ride under the influence. But my main problem with almost any lubricant is that it attracts dirt and has to be reapplied.

So I found a solution! I just rigged up a system that cleans and lubricates at once. I start with a chain that has been agitated for 3 hours in industrial solvent, moved to an ultrasonic cleaner, blasted by compressed air, and finally baked until a pretty blue color. My pedaling powers a system mounted to my chainstay that blows microburst of compressed air on each link and immediately afterward drips on to it a carefully calculated dose of lubricant composed of 1/3 ATF, 1/3 Mobil 1 and 1/3 gasoline (to make it a "dry" lube). The cycle repeats continuously, so the chain never gets dirty and stays perfectly lubricated.

I know there may be objections on environmental grounds, as the blowby from my blast and lube system does leave a bit of a trail on the road, but I figure whatever I do on that end is made up for by not driving unless it's more than a one mile trip or it's raining.

Now I just need to figure out why my braking has deteriorated lately and my tires seem to be rotting.

PMSL.

Yes. Most folks drench their drivetrains in lube, and it's not a great idea IMO.

You only need lube inside the chain, not all over the outside of it and the chainrings, cogs and jockey wheels, collecting muck and circulating it inside the chain, creating a gungy horrible mess.

I like to lube my chain off the bike, with a single drop for each roller (across all four plates), and after letting it wick in, I hold the chain in each hand so there's a 180° at the bottom, and work the bend back and forth along the chain a few times to make sure the lube gets between the plates. Then I use a soft rag to wipe it a bit before putting it on the bike and making it as dry as I can by dragging it through my fist.

Just rig up a clean 'n blast system for the brakes and tires. Maybe a unit that continuously sprays a fresh layer of rubber on the tires.

• Water resistant
• High quality insulator
• Prevents arcing
• Excellent lubricating properties
• Supplied with extension tube
• Supplied in a 200ml can .

Hi,

Been using just it and wiping off any excess from
the outside of the chain, it does seem to work.

Might use WD40 as a cleaner followed up by this,
eventually, I don't want to initially wash out the
lube in the new chain.

rgds, sreten.

I was thinking just skip the rim and go for crescent shaped brake shoes on the top of the tread - cleans off debris and brakes at the same time.

Unfortunately it appears both the direct request and my humorous hint are going to fail to stop another chain lubrication thread.

I don't think teflon is considered particularly harmful to the environment. It's very inert. Certainly less harmful than petroleum based oils. It can produce some nasty gasses when heated to 350F+, but your chain shouldn't be doing that.

Great idea!!