Some months ago, I was removing a nice, lightly used Suntour Winner Pro freewheel to install on a different wheel. I managed to sheer off one of the four prongs (see pics)'so now four prong removal tool doesn't grab the lower notches. I managed to get the freewheel off but it's been sitting in a drawer for months because I feared installing and then being unable to remove should I want to in the future. The freewheel spins nicely, and the cogs are in almost new condition so I'd like to use it. Is the center body a replaceable part (assuming I could find one)? Is freewheel likely removable even with damage?

You can't replace the body of the freewheel. Freewheels and cassettes aren't really meant to be serviced - if there's something wrong, you just replace the whole thing.

Anyway, I see no reason why you wouldn't be able to remove it because one of those prongs is gone. That shouldn't matter. The only thing to worry about is whether that would happen again. Even with two though, I think you'd still be able to make it turn. Also, it's still possible to remove a freewheel without the proper tool (https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...uctive-removal).

It's your call, basically. I'm not going to tell you it's a good idea.

Did you use your QR skewer to hold the tool against the freewheel? Something to keep in mind for next time.

What happened to the body? Did you try to remove the FW without using the QR skewer or something equivalent to secure the tool? If you still have 2 slots left somewhat intact, then it's still possible to take off the FW with a standard tool, unless your tool has some teeth missing also.

If you want a brand new Winner Pro body for that freewheel, I have a few and will sell one for $18.00 including postage within the USA.
Feel free to email me if interested.

However, don't buy a body until you confirm that you can get the sprockets off. On that body, the first three are threaded, so you'll need 2 chain whips, one to hold the largest sprocket, and the other to remove the first two. (the first two come off together, and rest are splined).

Wow, I didn't know that existed. Guess I shouldn't have told him it didn't.

No, I used skewer, tool held in place well and threads were greased when freewheel was installed. It was NOS when I bought it so hadn't been used. It was just on really tight and tool sheared through body when I applied force, which I gather isn't all that uncommon. After I posted, I came across the following on the Sheldon site, "It was very common for the prongs to get rounded off or broken, and to ruin the freewheel. Once the notches are damaged, or to remove and discard an old freewheel for which you have no tool, you must disassemble the freewheel and clamp the core into a vise -- left side of the wheel up -- then unscrew the wheel counterclockwise."

Obviously I managed to get off using tool and so it may be possible again, but it was not easy and I am not sure it would work again. Because only two prongs of the tool engage, the tool doesn't apply even force around the body so if freewheel works on really tight while riding, I may not be able to apply force needed to remove. That said, good to know from both the link acrowder posted and the Sheldon site that there are options for removing freewheel even if tool won't work.

Thanks for the offer FB, I'll let you know if I go this route. I am leaning toward getting myself a lightly used period appropriate dura ace freewheel off ebay, however.

Some people seem to enjoy taking apart freewheel bodies and greasing the ball bearings. I have never had one that needed it, so soared myself the trouble. I just dribble a little 10w-30 inside once in a while.

New winner Pro had the innovation of a labyrinth seal , so re-lubricating takes place through
a hole on the face that threads over the Hub.

Not being able to remove a freewheel is not an impediment, as one can disassemble the freewheel (different than removing cogs) to remove it without a tool.

You can use the 2-prong remover as well. It has deeper fingers to grip the freewheel-body lower down past the rounded-off corners.

To use the QR to hold the tool in place, I insert the skewer with lever on opposite (left) side. Then screw in the skewer nut all the way hand-tight. This gives zero wiggle room for the tool to slip. It will only unscrew about 10-20 degrees before binding-up against the skewer. Then I just remove the skewer and the freewheel's already broken free from the threads and can be removed with just the tool alone.