Chain Tight
#1
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From: New York and San Juan
Bikes: Kestrel Talon SL, Surly Steamroller, Equipe SS/FG Beater
Chain Tight
I replaced the chainring on my single speed with one with less teeth. I tried to adjust the wheel in order to get the correct tension on the chain but while rotating the crank the chain would tighten and then loosen depending on the position of the crank. The wheel is centered and the crank seems to be on the tapered shaft of the BB correctly. Could the new chainring be out of round? Has anyone had this problem?
#2
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From: Trenton On
Bikes: 2010 Cannondale T1, 1998 Specialized FSR
I don't think it is all that unusual. Just find the tightest spot when you turn the crank and adjust the chain for a bit of slack at that spot and you should be good to go. I would also suggest that you invest in a good set of chain tugs if you don't already have a set. They make adjusting the rear wheel position and chain tension very easy. Al
#4
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From: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
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It's not an uncommon issue, usually the problem is that the chainring isn't centred on the crank, rather than that it's out of round. Sheldon Brown explains the usual method to fix it here.
#5
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From: New York and San Juan
Bikes: Kestrel Talon SL, Surly Steamroller, Equipe SS/FG Beater
It's not an uncommon issue, usually the problem is that the chainring isn't centred on the crank, rather than that it's out of round. Sheldon Brown explains the usual method to fix it here.
#6
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
I replaced the chainring on my single speed with one with less teeth. I tried to adjust the wheel in order to get the correct tension on the chain but while rotating the crank the chain would tighten and then loosen depending on the position of the crank. The wheel is centered and the crank seems to be on the tapered shaft of the BB correctly. Could the new chainring be out of round? Has anyone had this problem?
Pull back the wheel until most of the slack is out. Rotate the cranks holding tension by pushing the middle of the lower loop up. (keep fingers to the outside of the loop, ie under the lower loop) and feel for the position of least slack. Keeping the crank there, pull the wheel back until there's only a vestigial amount of slack, enough that you can freely push the center of either loop up or down 1/4". Finally check by rotating cranks and watching and listening to confirm that the chain is never actually tight.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#7
rebmeM roineS

Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Metro Indy, IN
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
It's not an uncommon issue, usually the problem is that the chainring isn't centred on the crank, rather than that it's out of round. Sheldon Brown explains the usual method to fix it here.
Our recumbent tandem uses an adjustable Terracycle idler system for the synchro chain in order to make a turn and adjust tension. Do any fixed gear bikes use idlers to adjust tension? Or would that be adding a usually-unnecessary layer of complexity?
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Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
Bacchetta Giro A20, RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer
#8
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From: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
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They can't, they put too much tension on the lower run of the chain when the rider resists the rotation of the pedals. If you used one, you'd either break the idler, or the slack would all end up on the top run of the chain whenever the rider was resisting, depending if it was an idler on a sprung arm like a derailleur, or just an idler you adjusted to give the right tension and then locked into place.
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