old centerpull brake questions
#1
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Charge Juicer, modified Giant hybrid for touring
old centerpull brake questions
Hey guys and gals!
I'm building up a mixte for my girlfriend's birthday in August and today I was installing some old dia-compe long reach centerpull brakes (complete with nice new V brake pads!) onto both the front and the rear of the bike. The front was easy but the rear presented some problems. I need a really long Cabble Straddle to reach around the seat tube. I was brainstorming about this tonight and I was wondering if I could use an older cantilever brake straddle or if I could find an extra long centerpull brake straddle for sale on the internet. Any body have a clue?
She's really cute and I might like to marry her one day, if you can help you're invited to the wedding. There will probably be Jeni's Ice Cream!
-Aaron
I'm building up a mixte for my girlfriend's birthday in August and today I was installing some old dia-compe long reach centerpull brakes (complete with nice new V brake pads!) onto both the front and the rear of the bike. The front was easy but the rear presented some problems. I need a really long Cabble Straddle to reach around the seat tube. I was brainstorming about this tonight and I was wondering if I could use an older cantilever brake straddle or if I could find an extra long centerpull brake straddle for sale on the internet. Any body have a clue?
She's really cute and I might like to marry her one day, if you can help you're invited to the wedding. There will probably be Jeni's Ice Cream!
-Aaron
#3
I think the 250mm are the ones you want https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...dle/Link-Wires
#4
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Charge Juicer, modified Giant hybrid for touring
I think the 250mm are the ones you want https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...dle/Link-Wires
#5
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Sounds like you need a cable hangar, that let's you a length of regular brake cable as the straddle cable. Maybe something on this page will work?
On a Mixte frame, the rear brake is attached to the central stays. This avoids the cable routing issues that a seat stay mount causes. But there's never enough room for the cable so SOP if for the yoke to be looped around the seat tube as the OP described. The hanger is integrated in a bridge typically about halfway up the central stays.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 74
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Charge Juicer, modified Giant hybrid for touring
No a hanger won't help.
On a Mixte frame, the rear brake is attached to the central stays. This avoids the cable routing issues that a seat stay mount causes. But there's never enough room for the cable so SOP if for the yoke to be looped around the seat tube as the OP described. The hanger is integrated in a bridge typically about halfway up the central stays.
On a Mixte frame, the rear brake is attached to the central stays. This avoids the cable routing issues that a seat stay mount causes. But there's never enough room for the cable so SOP if for the yoke to be looped around the seat tube as the OP described. The hanger is integrated in a bridge typically about halfway up the central stays.
#7
Senior Member


Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 39,897
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
If you can't find the roll your own part, you'll have to hunt around for the right yoke cable. They should exist someplace because they still build mixes with similarly arranged brakes.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#8
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From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
#11
No a hanger won't help.
On a Mixte frame, the rear brake is attached to the central stays. This avoids the cable routing issues that a seat stay mount causes. But there's never enough room for the cable so SOP if for the yoke to be looped around the seat tube as the OP described. The hanger is integrated in a bridge typically about halfway up the central stays.
On a Mixte frame, the rear brake is attached to the central stays. This avoids the cable routing issues that a seat stay mount causes. But there's never enough room for the cable so SOP if for the yoke to be looped around the seat tube as the OP described. The hanger is integrated in a bridge typically about halfway up the central stays.
#12
Thread Starter
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Charge Juicer, modified Giant hybrid for touring
Update:
I was able to get back into the shop this week to work on the ride and I figured out a work around. This will also probably work for all center pulls and not just those on mixte that need the long cable. I didn't have a long straddle but what I came up with was the following:
I used a cantilever straddle

One end of the straddle fits snug into the hole on top of the center pull brake. The other end I fed through cable anchor bolt that went through the other hole on the centerpull brake. I fastened the bottom of the bolt with a nut. It's not glorious but it seems quite secure and it works! This seems like an option for people fixing up vintage road bike who would like the nice stopping power and price point of center pull brakes, but can't find a dia-compe style center pull brake straddle cable lying around.
I was able to get back into the shop this week to work on the ride and I figured out a work around. This will also probably work for all center pulls and not just those on mixte that need the long cable. I didn't have a long straddle but what I came up with was the following:
I used a cantilever straddle

One end of the straddle fits snug into the hole on top of the center pull brake. The other end I fed through cable anchor bolt that went through the other hole on the centerpull brake. I fastened the bottom of the bolt with a nut. It's not glorious but it seems quite secure and it works! This seems like an option for people fixing up vintage road bike who would like the nice stopping power and price point of center pull brakes, but can't find a dia-compe style center pull brake straddle cable lying around.





