My wife's Diamondback Insight has 135mm rear spacing with 700c wheels. I would like to eventually put some better wheels on the bike for her but all the wheelsets I see online for 700c wheels have the rear spacing as 130mm.

How do I resolve my dilemma?

Add a 5 mm spacer to the non-drive side under the locknut, recenter the axle and redish the rim. Or have wheels built with 135 mm hubs and 700c rims Current MTB "29"" wheels are actually 700c but will tend to have wider rims than road wheels.

HillRider,
Thank you. Your first solution is not a problem until I get to the "redish" portion of it. I'd like to really find something that was more "plug and play". I will definitely look into the 'niner wheel option. I did not know they were the same size. A little wider rim is not a problem since we'll be running 28 to 32mm tires.

Will 29in wheels that are shown as disc compatible be able to be used with V-Brakes? Are there some 29in rims that will not accept V-Brakes?

Not all rims are V-brake compatible. Disk-only rims typically have no area near the tire where a rim brake can clamp, and the rim will be thinner there than a rim built for rim brakes. But, if the hub on a wheel has no provision for mounting a disk brake, then it's almost certain the rim will work with rim brakes. What's wrong with her current wheels? Are they breaking spokes, spokes pulling through the rim, hub wearing out?

Touring wheels are usually bulletproof and have 135 mm spacing. I run Deore LX hubs with double-butted stainless spokes and CR-18 or A-719 rims on my touring bikes. But those are not fast, light wheels, for sure.

Cycle_maven,

Nothing wrong with her current wheels. Just trying to understand some wheel specs for when the day comes. I understand her bike is pretty low end but she loves it, loves the fit, so I'm going to throw a few upgrades on it every now and then. Obviously wheels are something that can be transferred to another bike when the day comes so I was looking at this option as one of the first.

There are plenty of 700c wheels available with a 135mm rear spacing. In fact, I just bought a set for my cross bike. Touring bikes and hybrids (as well as some cross bikes) typically take a 135 rear since it is a little stronger (with less dish) than a 130 mm rear. Here is one at $60:

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=4595

There are plenty and plenty of choices out there.

I don't know the width of the current rims, but you can probably mount 32mm tires on them. You might want to look at the chart towards the bottom of this page: https://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

[+1)] With a 10x1 tpmm axle being common to many rear cassette hubs ,
buying a longer axle and a 5mm spacer for the left end ...

and re dishing the finished wheel and All will be Good , in fact , as the dish is less,
lateral strength a trifle better than a 130 axle wheel in a 130- dropout.

Actually you don't even have to buy the longer axle. A 130 mm hub uses a 141 mm long axle which allows 5.5 mm to stick out beyond the locknuts on both sides. A 135 mm hub uses a 146 mm axle which also lets 5.5 mm stick out of each locknut. Respacing a 130 mm hub to 135 mm while keeping the same 141 mm axle, reduces the protrusion beyond the locknuts to 3 mm per side which is enough. Sheldon Brown says nearly zero protrusion is enough as the hub is really clamped in place by the qr skewer but I do like at least a couple of mm on each side.

Particularly useful if you want to center the axle in the drop outs without having to eyeball it. The edges of the axle will have chamfers so 2mm is probably the minimum protrusion you'll need to still have some full 10mm axle hanging out, assuming ~1mm chamfer per side.

I'd want more than 2 threads overhanging the edge of the dropout, myself, but do as you wish.


The cap on QR skewers is Cupped, and the Tapered Coil spring should all collapse into that space ,

So axle just short of flush with the outer face of the dropouts, is my pick.