Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

This is wrong......right?

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

This is wrong......right?

Old 10-06-13, 03:45 PM
  #1  
Thumpic
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Thumpic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: The Sunny South
Posts: 1,913
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
This is wrong......right?

These axle adjusters are installed backwards. Or have I been wrong all these years? I only doubt myself because I know this bike to be totally unmolested since original assembly.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
Miele.jpg (82.3 KB, 412 views)
Thumpic is offline  
Old 10-06-13, 04:05 PM
  #2  
bici_mania
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 709
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 15 Times in 2 Posts
Right. It is wrong. At least based on how I have seen it on every bike ever that had them. Mine are the other way which is concrete proof that these are wrong.
bici_mania is offline  
Old 10-06-13, 04:08 PM
  #3  
dsbrantjr
Senior Member
 
dsbrantjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,282

Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta

Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1421 Post(s)
Liked 1,042 Times in 697 Posts
The screws will perform their function, to position the axle until it can be secured, either way. One advantage of the way they are currently installed is that they will not loosen and fall out. Since they rarely/never require adjustment I prefer to lock them in position with a nut from the outside then trim them flush to avoid them getting bent and difficult to remove. The bike will be perfectly fine without them, they are merely a convenience when installing the wheel.
dsbrantjr is offline  
Old 10-06-13, 07:05 PM
  #4  
Reynolds 
Passista
 
Reynolds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,396

Bikes: 1998 Pinarello Asolo, 1992 KHS Montaña pro, 1980 Raleigh DL-1, IGH Hybrid, IGH Utility

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 801 Post(s)
Liked 527 Times in 293 Posts
It's not necessarily wrong. Those screws might have had a knurled cap nut on the outside end to turn them by hand, the nuts probably became loose and fell off.


Last edited by Reynolds; 10-06-13 at 07:09 PM.
Reynolds is offline  
Old 10-06-13, 07:52 PM
  #5  
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 23,759

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 142 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3052 Post(s)
Liked 2,182 Times in 1,303 Posts
Originally Posted by Reynolds View Post
It's not necessarily wrong. Those screws might have had a knurled cap nut on the outside end to turn them by hand, the nuts probably became loose and fell off.

+1 this. The knurled caps are easily lost.
JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 10-06-13, 08:17 PM
  #6  
ultraman6970
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,859
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
That's is not wrong, the problem is that the tips are missing, as in the picture reynolds posted.

You have missing pieces thats all.
ultraman6970 is offline  
Old 10-06-13, 08:20 PM
  #7  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 36,145

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 126 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4458 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 214 Times in 141 Posts
As someone who's had them since 1967 they are correct as is. Back then some of us trimmed off the part extending behind the dropout so it wouldn't bent when bikes were tossed around. That allowed us to adjust from the inside, and leave them there, while preventing the jammed & broken screws that bending caused, along with stripped dropouts.

BTW- why did you think is was wrong?
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 10-06-13, 09:31 PM
  #8  
Thumpic
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Thumpic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: The Sunny South
Posts: 1,913
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
It may be hard to tell from the pic, but they are machine screws that are threaded through a spring and into/through the interior of the drop out. The slotted head of the screw would ride against the axle. I think they are installed backwards....

edit...I reread your post FB and your explanation makes sense. I think I'll turn them around though.......

Last edited by Thumpic; 10-06-13 at 09:35 PM.
Thumpic is offline  
Old 10-06-13, 09:39 PM
  #9  
dedhed
SE Wis
 
dedhed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 9,219

Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2215 Post(s)
Liked 2,294 Times in 1,417 Posts
Originally Posted by Thumpic View Post
I think I'll turn them around though.......
And then you'll mush up the end of the screw and threads with the axle and not be able to get it to unthread should you wish to remove them later.

Better to go to a good hardware store and buy acorn nuts (3mm?) preferably stainless and screw them on the end with some loctite to serve as "knobs"
dedhed is offline  
Old 10-06-13, 09:40 PM
  #10  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 36,145

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 126 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4458 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 214 Times in 141 Posts
Originally Posted by Thumpic View Post
It may be hard to tell from the pic, but they are machine screws that are threaded through a spring and into/through the interior of the drop out. The slotted head of the screw would ride against the axle. I think they are installed backwards....

edit...I reread your post FB and your explanation makes sense. I think I'll turn them around though.......
You really don't want to do that. You want to leave it so they remove toward the slot rather than to the back. If the screw becomes damaged, it's easy to move it backward, clean up or saw off the damaged area then remove the screw. If you turn it around you'll have to do the surgery inside the slot, and if it should get sheared off the stud will be hard to remove.

The little end caps are probably still available, and will allow easy adjustment if that's your concern.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 10-06-13, 09:44 PM
  #11  
Thumpic
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Thumpic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: The Sunny South
Posts: 1,913
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
thanks.....
Thumpic is offline  
Old 10-07-13, 04:52 PM
  #12  
ultraman6970
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,859
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Dont understand why the OP insist that they were installed backwards, you have the two knuckled tips gone. You can do what you want to do anyways because i have seen it and it will work. The problem is that you risk to damage the threads of axle a little bit. Not the same to have like a head 3 mm in diameter that is flat than have a sharp 1 mm diameter thing in its place.

You can get new parts in the web, those things are still available.
ultraman6970 is offline  
Old 10-07-13, 05:16 PM
  #13  
Bandera
~>~
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: TX Hill Country
Posts: 5,932
Mentioned: 87 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1112 Post(s)
Liked 173 Times in 113 Posts
Originally Posted by Thumpic View Post
These axle adjusters are installed backwards.
No, they are not.
Thanks for reminding me to re-set them on my FG road bike w/ the fresh cog/chain.

-Bandera
Bandera is offline  
Old 10-10-13, 06:22 AM
  #14  
rootboy 
Senior Member
 
rootboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Wherever
Posts: 16,755
Mentioned: 90 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 553 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 123 Times in 72 Posts
Say...did anyone say they are correctly positioned yet?

Oh...right.
rootboy is offline  
Old 10-10-13, 04:19 PM
  #15  
Thumpic
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Thumpic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: The Sunny South
Posts: 1,913
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post


Well lookee here!!!! I read all the posts and decided that I would follow my instincts and install the screws with the heads out. Then last night I started to work on an '86 Raleigh Competition. Lo and behold the adjusters are installed exactly as FB described.

I bow to wisdom and experiance............
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
P1010001.jpg (49.8 KB, 347 views)

Last edited by Thumpic; 10-10-13 at 04:22 PM.
Thumpic is offline  
Old 10-10-13, 04:23 PM
  #16  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 36,145

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 126 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4458 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 214 Times in 141 Posts
Originally Posted by Thumpic View Post

Well lookee here!!!! I read all the posts and decided that I would follow my instincts and install the screws with the heads out. Then last night I started to work on an '86 Raleigh Competition. Lo and behold the adjusters are installed exactly as FB described.

I bow to wisdom and experiance............m
Of course that bike could be backward, and any one or two of could be wrong.

But when you have an overwhelming consensus (or any consensus here on BF), odds favor it being right.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 10-10-13, 04:28 PM
  #17  
gyozadude
Senior Member
 
gyozadude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Sunnyvale, California
Posts: 1,180

Bikes: Bridgestone RB-1, 600, T700, MB-6 w/ Dirt Drops, MB-Zip, Bianchi Limited, Nashbar Hounder

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
+1 on FB's opinion. I rebuilt a Bianchi not too long ago. Had a small stash of campy chain adjuster screws and the outer heads are separate and can fall off easily. I had some others from Suntour/SR or something with the same design but a chromed coloured spring. The campy ones were black. So they are inserted correctly in the original pic and just missing the finger adjuster nuts. I don't have a cost on those parts since everything I have in stock is likely more than 5 years old.
gyozadude is offline  
Old 10-12-13, 02:36 AM
  #18  
ksisler
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,732
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Thumpic View Post


Well lookee here!!!! I read all the posts and decided that I would follow my instincts and install the screws with the heads out. Then last night I started to work on an '86 Raleigh Competition. Lo and behold the adjusters are installed exactly as FB described. I bow to wisdom and experiance............
Well that maybe correct...but I will admit that I have never see a bike this way nor the way the OP shows it. In memory of thousands of bikes, they are the otherway... just a finger knob on the outside and just a little bump or something on the inside to retain the spring. Google Images search for "dropout axle adjustment screws" provides so many variations, it made my head hurt.

Good reason to evolve to vertical dropouts for derailleur bikes, in my humble opinion. I really dislike horizontal dropouts.

/K
ksisler is offline  
Old 10-12-13, 10:23 AM
  #19  
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 23,759

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 142 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3052 Post(s)
Liked 2,182 Times in 1,303 Posts
Originally Posted by ksisler View Post
Well that maybe correct...but I will admit that I have never see a bike this way nor the way the OP shows it. In memory of thousands of bikes, they are the otherway...
Really? Even catalogs from the 60s show the knurled nut on the outside, with the bolt head on the inside:

JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 10-12-13, 11:47 AM
  #20  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 36,145

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 126 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4458 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 214 Times in 141 Posts
Originally Posted by ksisler View Post
Well that maybe correct...but I will admit that I have never see a bike this way nor the way the OP shows it. In memory of thousands of bikes, they are the otherway... just a finger knob on the outside and just a little bump or something on the inside to retain the spring. Google Images search for "dropout axle adjustment screws" provides so many variations, it made my head hurt.
/K
The finger knob on the outside is the separate knurled nut that the OPs bike is missing. And the little bump retaining the spring on the inside is the head of the screw. If you clean off the dirt you'll even see the slot. So it's not that you're seeing anything different, or that your memory is failing, it's just that you never looked very closely.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 10-12-13, 11:57 AM
  #21  
fietsbob
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,599

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,336 Times in 844 Posts
They in the end are not important, because the mid race need for fast wheel changes
and having the adjustment pre set so the wheel is centered as the team mechanic
replaces your punctured race wheel , is gone.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 10-12-13, 12:00 PM
  #22  
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 36,145

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 126 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4458 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 214 Times in 141 Posts
Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
They in the end are not important, because the mid race need for fast wheel changes
and having the adjustment pre set so the wheel is centered as the team mechanic
replaces your punctured race wheel , is gone.
Well, doesn't the convenience of being able to reliably replace the wheel correctly centered without fussing count for something. One mans need for speed is anothers need for ease.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 10-12-13, 12:32 PM
  #23  
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 23,759

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 142 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3052 Post(s)
Liked 2,182 Times in 1,303 Posts
Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
They in the end are not important, because the mid race need for fast wheel changes and having the adjustment pre set so the wheel is centered as the team mechanic
replaces your punctured race wheel, is gone.
Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
Well, doesn't the convenience of being able to reliably replace the wheel correctly centered without fussing count for something. One mans need for speed is anothers need for ease.
I think what fietsbob meant is that since modern race bikes exclusively use vertical dropouts, there's no need for these adjusters anymore. Curiously, some early semi-vertical dropouts retained these adjusters for some reason:



JohnDThompson is offline  
Old 10-12-13, 01:47 PM
  #24  
fietsbob
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,599

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,336 Times in 844 Posts
Have a long slot campag set of dropouts on a DIY bike frame I built in '75 , the adjuster seized
and would not budge to screw in or out .
so I just broke off the screw on both sides of the back of the dropout ,

and proceeded to ride the bike un hampered. ever since..

vertical dropouts are almost compulsory with indexed shifters , now,

so the wheel goes back in the same spot relative to the RD guide pulley with consistency..

Friction shift derail, or IGH it matters less ..


I have the semi verti-zontal dropouts on my steel 91 Pinarello CX frame,
I thought them odd .

Last edited by fietsbob; 10-12-13 at 01:50 PM.
fietsbob is offline  
Old 10-12-13, 06:14 PM
  #25  
Reynolds 
Passista
 
Reynolds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,396

Bikes: 1998 Pinarello Asolo, 1992 KHS Montaña pro, 1980 Raleigh DL-1, IGH Hybrid, IGH Utility

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 801 Post(s)
Liked 527 Times in 293 Posts
Old Gt Karakoram had vertical rear dropouts with adjusting screws (here w/o the screw):

Reynolds is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.