What snap ring pliers does this require?
#2
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None. Use, first and foremost, some eye and hand protection, plus a pick or screwdriver for removal.
#3
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The best way is to use a folded rag held against the end of the axle, both as hand protection, and to trap the ring when it jumps. If you don't trap them, these spring rings can jump high and fast. If you let it loose you'll be looking all over for it.
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#5
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There aren't pliers for this type of ring because there's nothing to grab. You pry them up at one end, then work the point of the tool around as if removing a tire. Warning they really jump, so it you need two hands, cut a disc out of cardboard, punch a hole and use a nut to hold it at the end o the axle as a jump stop.
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#6
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I find the point of a small knife blade is a good "tool" to pry up one end of the ring and the blade then used to go around the circumference and complete removal. Chris King uses similar snap rings as seals in their headset bearings and this technique was suggested by them.
#7
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Another good source for tools for this kind of stuff is your dentist. Mine saves me his dull or chapped picks and scrapers. They're made of very tough grades of stainless and great for all sorts of intricate work.
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#9
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Getting it back on is harder than removing it. I use 2 small screwdrivers like in the video.
Consider eye protection mandatory for snapring removal, esp if you use smaller, more brittle tools.
You can get snap-rings with 2 small holes that are compatible with snapring pliers. Will this kind of snapring work on Nexus/Alfine? Could reduce my swearword count.
Consider eye protection mandatory for snapring removal, esp if you use smaller, more brittle tools.
You can get snap-rings with 2 small holes that are compatible with snapring pliers. Will this kind of snapring work on Nexus/Alfine? Could reduce my swearword count.
#10
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It's been a while, but I think I used to pry one end out, then grab that end very firmly with pliers or Vise-Grips, then finish prying it out.
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#11
Dental pick or some of those cheap pointy awls (i think that is the word) you can pick up a $5 set at Harbor freight...I use them all the time to work on my Harley or Small engine.
#12
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This site (https://www.rotorclip.com/) has every possible permutation imaginable, including the heavy duty metric versions that are impossible to find elsewhere. If you ask nicely they might even sample you a handful for free like they've done for me in the past, though I've also been a real customer through my day job which helps.
#14
The proper tool is a single flat bladed screwdriver. Here's my technique.
If I find myself struggling, it's always because I've grabbed one of my cheapo screwdrivers. another example of where quality tools make the difference.
If I find myself struggling, it's always because I've grabbed one of my cheapo screwdrivers. another example of where quality tools make the difference.
#17
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It's not that hard, folks. As shown, jam a small screwdriver in a notch and lever it over. On Sturmeys if you have the hub totally disassembled it's easy to get the lockring back on with a cone wrench placed flat on the lockring and then pushed onto the driver at an angle. For some folks apparently the main function of a special tool is just having another tool. Unless one is in the habit of changing cogs weekly it's hardly worth the bother to buy another tool that one has to store and find each time. Besides, much of the joy of being a mechanic is using the "wrong" tool for the job, or modifying something to do the job!
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 10-17-13 at 01:59 PM.
#18
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Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
It's not that hard, folks. As shown, jam a small screwdriver in a notch and lever it over. On Sturmeys if you have the hub totally disassembled it's easy to get the lockring back on with a cone wrench placed flat on the lockring and then pushed onto the driver at an angle.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#20
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Reminds me of the saying about Italian mechanics.
Everything is a hammer, except for the screwdriver. That's the chisel.
Everything is a hammer, except for the screwdriver. That's the chisel.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#21
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Yup, that's what I do. I'm glad I read this thread, because I hadn't thought about protection until now. Good idea.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
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“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#22
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As stated above, you can use picks or straight screw drivers, but be careful. Here is the tool that you asked for.
Here's the corrected link https://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947386000P and in case the link dies, here's the description: Craftsman Lock Ring Pliers, Sears Item# 00947386000 | Model# 47386







