700c instead of 27?
#2
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Pfew! I thought there was a new bigger wheel (770c).
Yes, you can use a 700c in lieu of a 27", but you'll need another 4mm reach from the caliper brake. That 4mm is just about the only limitation.
Yes, you can use a 700c in lieu of a 27", but you'll need another 4mm reach from the caliper brake. That 4mm is just about the only limitation.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
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Bikes: 2011 modified Haro, and a 87 Raleigh 10 speed
ok thank you i can do that cuz my caliper has a lot of adjustment on it and im not to worried about that
#5
Also, before you source some new 700c wheels, make sure you know what hub parameters your fork and rear dropouts will accept. Common modern 700c specs are 100mm wide 9mm axles up front, and 130mm wide 10mm axles in the back. depending on your frameset's age and origin, you may find that the fork is only 92mm wide and/or will take a 5/16" axle, or that the spacing in the rear is at 120mm or 126mm...
What was said above about the brake reach is true, but there's often more to it than that; I'm trying to preempt the "why won't this wheel fit" posts of the future...
What was said above about the brake reach is true, but there's often more to it than that; I'm trying to preempt the "why won't this wheel fit" posts of the future...
#7
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Bikes: 2011 modified Haro, and a 87 Raleigh 10 speed
thank you all for your help, my neighbor hinted me on to this and i wasn't sure or not if it was true ad if it was what all i need to change. as for the brake clearance i have a lot of adjustment in my dropouts so i am sure i could adjust the braking clearance there but my only worrie is the hub clearance issue but i am fairly positive i could fix that by swapping hardware or adding spacers and maybe stretching the frame? like i sometimes do on my BMX bike
#8
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From: Melbourne, Oz
Bikes: https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=152015&p=1404231
On a steel frame the wrong width isn't a dealbreaker, but if you spread the frame or fork, the dropouts should be realigned.
Also, 'having a lot of adjustment in your dropouts' won't help a bit with brake reach; that's all about the slots on the calipers.
And this will decrease the mechanical advantage of your brakes. You can fit a long-reach dual-pivot on the front to get acceptable braking, or fit a 700c fork and a normal DP brake.
Use a single-pivot if you want, but IMO even the best ones aren't quite up to front duty.
Also, 'having a lot of adjustment in your dropouts' won't help a bit with brake reach; that's all about the slots on the calipers.
And this will decrease the mechanical advantage of your brakes. You can fit a long-reach dual-pivot on the front to get acceptable braking, or fit a 700c fork and a normal DP brake.
Use a single-pivot if you want, but IMO even the best ones aren't quite up to front duty.
#9
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Bikes: 2011 modified Haro, and a 87 Raleigh 10 speed
On a steel frame the wrong width isn't a dealbreaker, but if you spread the frame or fork, the dropouts should be realigned.
Also, 'having a lot of adjustment in your dropouts' won't help a bit with brake reach; that's all about the slots on the calipers.
And this will decrease the mechanical advantage of your brakes. You can fit a long-reach dual-pivot on the front to get acceptable braking, or fit a 700c fork and a normal DP brake.
Use a single-pivot if you want, but IMO even the best ones aren't quite up to front duty.
Also, 'having a lot of adjustment in your dropouts' won't help a bit with brake reach; that's all about the slots on the calipers.
And this will decrease the mechanical advantage of your brakes. You can fit a long-reach dual-pivot on the front to get acceptable braking, or fit a 700c fork and a normal DP brake.
Use a single-pivot if you want, but IMO even the best ones aren't quite up to front duty.
i also read online about 10 minutes ago that some one did this with the same bike i have and they did not have to replace anything
also my frame is steel so that is why i figured i could stretch my frame out to fit
#10
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From: Melbourne, Oz
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You'll go faster on the 622s. Not having a good enough front brake to lock the wheel is dumb.
Crap brakes are for beach cruisers, and just about everything else should be able to throw you over the bars.
Crap brakes are for beach cruisers, and just about everything else should be able to throw you over the bars.
#11
Si Senior
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From: Naperville, Illinois
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4mm is a pretty tiny amount of brake reach increase. I've done several conversions where the original brakes had enough reach -(but I usually change the brakes anyway). 80's Japanese 10 speeds usually make great 700c conversions.
I agree you do need good brakes. I've come down some scary steep hills where I desperately hoped the brakes would hold.
I agree you do need good brakes. I've come down some scary steep hills where I desperately hoped the brakes would hold.
#12
4mm is a pretty tiny amount of brake reach increase. I've done several conversions where the original brakes had enough reach -(but I usually change the brakes anyway). 80's Japanese 10 speeds usually make great 700c conversions.
I agree you do need good brakes. I've come down some scary steep hills where I desperately hoped the brakes would hold.
I agree you do need good brakes. I've come down some scary steep hills where I desperately hoped the brakes would hold.
4mm is tiny in many repects
but a pretty big increase in the distance between the brake pad and pivot
meaning it will almost definitely noticably crapify the brakes
all that being said
i have built and ridden many 27 to 700 conversions
and the brakes are usually adequate
but not great
#13
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
It would make the most difference on canti or V-brakes, but here it's closer to the pivot so leverage would increase.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#14
Si Senior
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From: Naperville, Illinois
Bikes: Too Numerous (not)
And long reach specific versions of dual-pivot brakes have longer space between pivots and longer arms. This increases their mechanical advantage over short reach dual-pivot and allows them to work very well. I have done several 650B conversions (from 700C) where 19mm is added, and used these long reach designs. They work very well. I can barely notice a difference.
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